Ok I read the sheet metal swap on the home page. lots of good info.
I have a 71 ford with rusted floor pans and rusted structural metal where the cab mounts to the chassis. Should I cut the rust out and weld in the new floor pans or try to find a different cab? what would the cost of a good cab be?
the bed is decent I can weld some patches up in that. and the fenders or atleast the front right inner and outer I will be replacing.
tips and pointers on the conversion?
Body Rust and swapping things out?
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- 72fordjah
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- splavin90
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re: Body Rust and swapping things out?
i'd cut out the rust, and patch it with sheetmetal. my floors arent looking to swell either...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v113/ ... ure006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v113/ ... ure006.jpg
69 F100 81' 302 / 73' fmx
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- 72fordjah
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re: Body Rust and swapping things out?
wow same color and all. looks just like my problem.. how is the structural metal looking to attach the cab to the chassis? aka cab mounts
- 72hiboy4x4
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I dont know much about VA, but i imagine that it might be difficult to score a good rust-free cab locally.
the major vendors for these trucks have sheet metal patch panels for the do-it-yourselfer's.
seems it might be the route to go.
see this page for, and order the first 7 catalogs.
http://www.fordification.com/links.htm
the major vendors for these trucks have sheet metal patch panels for the do-it-yourselfer's.
seems it might be the route to go.
see this page for, and order the first 7 catalogs.
http://www.fordification.com/links.htm
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- jzjames
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re: Body Rust and swapping things out?
If the roof is leakin Id scrap the whole cab, if not, new floor braces and floors. ![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
- 72fordjah
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re: Body Rust and swapping things out?
cab is not leaking and all seals are good. everything is good on it but the front bottom half on the outsides.I just bought a mig welder so I'll get the ball rolling this weekend. I was thinking of galvinized steel even though its not to good for the welder breathing the smoke in. I think i have a mask somewhere.
any ideas on cheep metal to use? I think stainles might be much.
any ideas on cheep metal to use? I think stainles might be much.
- Galaxie64
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Regular sheet shouldn't be too much. Galvanized is nasty, gives me a headache for a day or two mask or no mask. Stainless should require a different wire but is best done with a TIG.
MY floor pan on the P side has some old street sign hacked into it.![Laughing lol](./images/smilies/icon_laughing01.gif)
MY floor pan on the P side has some old street sign hacked into it.
![Laughing lol](./images/smilies/icon_laughing01.gif)
'68 F150 2wd
'72 F250 2wd Camper Special (400/C6/4bbl)
'64 Galaxie 500 (3524bbl/57K miles)
'92 Grand Marquis (mostly stock 4.6L)
'97 F150 (heavily modded 5.4L)
'48 F1 (Flat 6)
'51 F3 (Flat V8 )
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'72 F250 2wd Camper Special (400/C6/4bbl)
'64 Galaxie 500 (3524bbl/57K miles)
'92 Grand Marquis (mostly stock 4.6L)
'97 F150 (heavily modded 5.4L)
'48 F1 (Flat 6)
'51 F3 (Flat V8 )
'56 F350 (engineless)
** Chuck Norris has counted to infinity -- twice. **
- 72fordjah
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re: Body Rust and swapping things out?
yea im just gonna use a mild steel flux core wire. I will maybe go with aluminized steel? galvanized wont be to bad I guess if I wear a mask. nasty stuff it is indeed. yea I would love to tig weld the plates into the truck but that wouldnt work to well since I dont have a garage to work out of. I use a real nice tig welder at work all day too..
what type of st sign is it haha. ive known so many people to do that.
what type of st sign is it haha. ive known so many people to do that.