Swapping the cab roof
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- bwlyon
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Swapping the cab roof
Ok! I have a question. I am planing on swapping out the roof on my truck with truck roof pictured. I plan on drilling out the welds on the cabs inner back panel first. Then cutting the front a few inches down on the the windshield post. The I plan to separate the back of the cab just below the factory seam on the parts truck, and carefully grid up to the factory seam. Then do the opposite on my truck in the back then place the replacement roof on my truck. So the question is what do you all think of my plan? I have shown the proposed areas to cut.
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- 1970F250
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i dont know that might be hard because you will have to weld all the way across the back of the roof. when i did it i cut both the roofs right across the center of both the front and back posts and if i had to do it again (God forbid) i would do it the same way.
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re: Swapping the cab roof
Not really there is a lip at the parting line that folds inward where the top and the back of cab meet. this where the factory welds them together. The reason I was thinking of cutting below the seam was I thought it would be difficult to drill out the factory spot welds. I would just grind up to that lip once the top was off. also I would cut the bad top above the parting line and grind down. That way I could just use the factory seam lip on both the replacement top as well as use the back lip on my truck then weld back where the factory welds the back and top skin together. on the front it is a totally different story I want therest of the top coplete inner parts and all. SO I Have to cut the front at the windshield post.
Last edited by bwlyon on Thu Apr 06, 2006 10:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- 68F250
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re: Swapping the cab roof
Talk to Keith, he did something like that I think. ![Hmmm :hmm:](./images/smilies/icon_hm.gif)
![Hmmm :hmm:](./images/smilies/icon_hm.gif)
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- rjewkes
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i wouldn't cut the posts that is extremely tell tale.
Its easier to cut the seeam behind the Drip Rail. with the windsheild removed i beleive you can reach the spotwelds at this point.
Its easier to cut the seeam behind the Drip Rail. with the windsheild removed i beleive you can reach the spotwelds at this point.
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'70 f250 4x4 Crew cab 460/C6 '72 F100 390/C6 9.8 MPG AVG. '89 Mercury Cougar LS Dual Exh. V6 . 18.9 MPG AVG. In Town.
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I don't want to give em a heart-attack. That is what would happen if I answered the door in the buff. Heck it almost scares me to death when I step out of the shower and look in the mirror.~Mancar1~
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Looks like a lot of work.
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re: Swapping the cab roof
Bwlyon, I think you may have figured out the solution to replacing the roof on these trucks! Cutting the two front posts shouldnt be any harder than what they do when theyre chopping roofs, and using the back seam as a line should give you almost perfect alignment.
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re: Swapping the cab roof
Sounds like you're on the right track, cutting below the seams on the donor roof, and above the seams on the cab getting repaired. But I would use a bit made for cutting spot welds rather than a grinder where ever it's possible, on the seams themselves. Saves a LOT of time, with a lot less cleanup in the details, than just grinding the whole thing down. Not likely to be able to easily on the front posts, but being able to retain the factory seams for alignment would be great, and NOT having to realign the rear window (as WELL as the windshield) would be a plus.
Paul
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`69 F100 390 4spd driver
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?cat=10251
Dura-Spark II Conversion info at:
http://home.comcast.net/~390nut/Dura-SparkII.htm
Pipes71 did once say, "bumps and bikes.. what a great combo!"
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