For Those Who Installed a Phenolic Carb Spacer...

[UKPR1]

...How did you plumb in the old rigid fuel line going to a carb that now sits an inch higher? (Yes - I'm keeping the existing base plate). Did you:

1. Make new rigid fuel line?
2. Cut and splice in a piece of rubber hose?
3. Pull and twist on the existing rigid fuel line and massage it to the new location?

Thanks. Just seeing what others have done.

Geoff

[sargentrs]

Not my bump but on my '64 Fairlane I swapped to a Duraspark ignition and had massage the rigid fuel line to clear the larger cap. I just GENTLY straightened it out a bit and re-bent it to clear, effectively making it longer.

[UKPR1]

Thanks, Randy. I was hoping that was a possible option.

Geoff

[Ohiotinkerer]

Not my bump but on my '64 Fairlane I swapped to a Duraspark ignition and had massage the rigid fuel line to clear the larger cap. I just GENTLY straightened it out a bit and re-bent it to clear, effectively making it longer.

That's how I did mine for my spacer.......there's enough there to massage it to fit but as said gently is the key word.....

[UKPR1]

Thanks, Ohio. Installed it today, choosing to install a non-heated base plate I had on top of the spacer and get rid of the heated one that was there. As you guys pointed out, it was possible to massage the rigid fuel line into its new location. Everything fuel-wise should work out. Looking at the linkage now: I'm taking this opportunity to eliminate the trapeze and install a single rod link, so I think that part is under control, but the issue I am having is with the kickdown rod. It's new higher location makes it want to kick back and stay back - a significant amount of force is needed to bring it forward again. What the go-to method for dealing with this? "Reprofile" (bend) the lever up? Or put the mother of all springs to get it to return forward?

Geoff

[sargentrs]

I would say a combination of both. The kickdown can be massaged to gain a little additional length, enough to allow you to use a lighter return spring than originally thought. That and adjustments at the modulator valve on the tranny could give you a reasonable shift point. Or extension kits are available. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-20-41

[UKPR1]

Thanks, Randy. Should be able to cobble something together with that. Just ordered it.

Geoff

[Jrod70250]

Hey- so how well do these phenolic spacers work? I have been trying to figure a solution out for my heat soak issue.

[UKPR1]

Oh gosh...for me, like a night and day difference. Weened myself off of ethanol gas a couple of weeks ago (temp still in the high 80's) and I can jump in after a short shutdown, turn the key and it start right up without any struggle at all - whereas before I'd have to crank for a while. Truth be told though, I did procure a non-heated carb baseplate to replace my heated one and stacked the phenolic spacer on that for a little extra height - plus I wanted to keep the valve cover venting functional.

Geoff

[Ohiotinkerer]

Glad to hear - you got the same result as I did! And having access like I do - 90 octane no ethanol at Bellstores stations - really helped out on not only hot starts but I haven't had the carb get gummed up from setting in winter storage like happened with regular 87 octane the first rear I stored it! And I kept the heated spacer but made some stainless steel plugs to put in the hoses so it keeps the stock look without heating anything up......