Does anyone have experience with automotive bonding adhesive? Would this be recommended for something like the rear cab floor support braces?
I don't want to weld them in and then worry about the unprotected internals again. I'd rather give them a good zinc coating and bond them in place.
Rear cab floor supports
Moderator: FORDification
-
WhitsEnd
- Preferred User
- Posts: 331
- Joined: Tue Jun 28, 2016 8:46 am
1970 F100 Ranger 2WD
project link: -
MAK
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 529
- Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2004 9:35 am
- Location: Georgia, Blairsville - Florida, Flagler Beach
- Contact:
Re: Rear cab floor supports
I used it to attach a patch strip along the entire length of the rear of my bed. It’s the same height as the top of the rib and since I couldn’t find a patch panel with rib spacing that matched the original bed, it was the route I went. I was very happy with the results and it was far easier than trying to fabricate a matching panel and then get everyth8ng all straight and flat again after welding the whole length.
Panel adhesives have been used extensively for many years on newer vehicles and when done right is every bit as strong as a weld. I think it would work in your situation as long as you have clean, bare, solid metal with absolutely no rust remaining on the bonding surfaces. Make sure the bonding surface is clean, bare metal and not zinc coated or painted.
You will also need to be sure you have way to firmly draw the pieces together and evenly clamp.
I think when using panel adhesive correctly you can end up with a more rust-resistant connection than you have when welding. I always worry about how to get an epoxy or paint coating on the back side of patch panels that I’ve just wleded in place. Even weld through primer if going to burn away and the exposed weld is highly susceptible to oxidation. When bonding you end up with nowhere for the rust to get a foothold. Panel adhesive can be a problem to cover and not ghost through the surface paint but it’s not a problem on the bottom of the cab...
Panel adhesives have been used extensively for many years on newer vehicles and when done right is every bit as strong as a weld. I think it would work in your situation as long as you have clean, bare, solid metal with absolutely no rust remaining on the bonding surfaces. Make sure the bonding surface is clean, bare metal and not zinc coated or painted.
You will also need to be sure you have way to firmly draw the pieces together and evenly clamp.
I think when using panel adhesive correctly you can end up with a more rust-resistant connection than you have when welding. I always worry about how to get an epoxy or paint coating on the back side of patch panels that I’ve just wleded in place. Even weld through primer if going to burn away and the exposed weld is highly susceptible to oxidation. When bonding you end up with nowhere for the rust to get a foothold. Panel adhesive can be a problem to cover and not ghost through the surface paint but it’s not a problem on the bottom of the cab...