Bumpside Legos?
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Bumpside Legos?
I've got Dad's old 68 F-100 4wd I want to build. Body is shot and I'm semi actively looking for a replacement. Being a long bed they seem to be a little more difficult to come across in my area. Seen a couple of F-250s around, but still nothing that seemed right (due to price or condition) to use as my parts donor. Just spotted an F-250 4wd local that seems like it might be a good donor candidate if I hear back from the guy.
Both the 100 and 250 have strong points. The coil spring/radius arm front suspension of the 100 makes for a better steering, ride, and handling, all round it's the better driver. The 250 has the stronger frame, suspension, and axles while also bringing bigger, brakes to the table. While it might occasionally pull a camper or tractor, this build won't really be a work truck. It'll mostly be street driven and hit rough logging roads during the hunting season, and occasionally loaded with camping gear or an ATV in the bed. If I have to choose between the two as they are, I'd pick the 100 frame to build on because it's make for the better driver.
Got to thinking about this last night and started to wander if I could have best of both worlds. Could I take my F-100 4wd and an F-250, either 2wd or 4wd, and build a coil sprung 4wd F-250? Bigger question I suppose is could it be done without a welder? I can't weld, but I can certainly remove frame rivets and replace with grade 8 hardware. That said I'm sure I could find someone to do the welding if I get everything set up and ready for them.
Is there even enough strength difference in the frames to make this attempt worth while? Heaviest it would occasionally pull is a 16-24 foot camper or Yanmar 2000 tractor (maybe 2500lbs with brush cutter). Don't really see it happening but I suppose it might have to tow dad's F250 (~6K lbs) or his larger tractor (4.5K?) someday, but it would be a one-time get it home tow job.
EDIT: Just heard back and I missed another one. Seems like every time I find an affordable long bed truck either it sells too fast or the body is rusted beyond repair. Still curious about the above questions in the event that I find a 2wd F250.
Both the 100 and 250 have strong points. The coil spring/radius arm front suspension of the 100 makes for a better steering, ride, and handling, all round it's the better driver. The 250 has the stronger frame, suspension, and axles while also bringing bigger, brakes to the table. While it might occasionally pull a camper or tractor, this build won't really be a work truck. It'll mostly be street driven and hit rough logging roads during the hunting season, and occasionally loaded with camping gear or an ATV in the bed. If I have to choose between the two as they are, I'd pick the 100 frame to build on because it's make for the better driver.
Got to thinking about this last night and started to wander if I could have best of both worlds. Could I take my F-100 4wd and an F-250, either 2wd or 4wd, and build a coil sprung 4wd F-250? Bigger question I suppose is could it be done without a welder? I can't weld, but I can certainly remove frame rivets and replace with grade 8 hardware. That said I'm sure I could find someone to do the welding if I get everything set up and ready for them.
Is there even enough strength difference in the frames to make this attempt worth while? Heaviest it would occasionally pull is a 16-24 foot camper or Yanmar 2000 tractor (maybe 2500lbs with brush cutter). Don't really see it happening but I suppose it might have to tow dad's F250 (~6K lbs) or his larger tractor (4.5K?) someday, but it would be a one-time get it home tow job.
EDIT: Just heard back and I missed another one. Seems like every time I find an affordable long bed truck either it sells too fast or the body is rusted beyond repair. Still curious about the above questions in the event that I find a 2wd F250.
1968 F-100 4x4 long bed - 360 FE - NP435 w/ Dana 21 - PS & PB conversion - Front Disc Swap - 265/75R16 - 1" S.L. & 2" B.L. (to be removed) - Homemade tube bumpers - Warn 8274 - Currently wearing 1970 body
- Jacksdad
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Re: Bumpside Legos?
I have to admit I thought it was a post for a Lego Bump toy, and I was going to put it on my Christmas list
Can't help with your question, but if I could just offer some advice. A good used or Chinese brand MIG set up can be had pretty cheap these days that will handle pretty much anything you're likely to do. I found my first MIG - a nice Lincoln gas set up - in the clearance section of Sears a few years ago for $350 complete. It had been returned because they shipped it with the drive wheel set for .035" wire and a roll of .025". Whoever bought it couldn't get the wire to move so they brought it back, and the store discounted it $200. Flipped the drive wheel and I've used the hell out of it without problems ever since. My point is that the equipment could well cost less than the first big welding project you have to pay someone else to do. I just fabricated a new exhaust on my daily driver, and my welding equipment probably just paid for itself with one job.
Can't weld - guess what? The best in the business all started off the same way - it's a prerequisite step in the process, and certainly not one that should stop you. Buy or scrounge up some scrap pieces of metal (heavy is best to start with), watch some YouTube videos, and have at it. Classes are easy to find too - many community colleges have them - but you don't need them. You'll be much better equipped to build the truck you want, and it's a skill nobody appreciates fully until they have it. The possibilities are endless when you can join metal together. Don't think of it as "I can't weld" - you just haven't learned yet.
One caveat - be safe. Get a good welding helmet, and remember that bare skin gets a pretty impressive sunburn if it's not covered up while you're welding. Ask me how I know
Can't help with your question, but if I could just offer some advice. A good used or Chinese brand MIG set up can be had pretty cheap these days that will handle pretty much anything you're likely to do. I found my first MIG - a nice Lincoln gas set up - in the clearance section of Sears a few years ago for $350 complete. It had been returned because they shipped it with the drive wheel set for .035" wire and a roll of .025". Whoever bought it couldn't get the wire to move so they brought it back, and the store discounted it $200. Flipped the drive wheel and I've used the hell out of it without problems ever since. My point is that the equipment could well cost less than the first big welding project you have to pay someone else to do. I just fabricated a new exhaust on my daily driver, and my welding equipment probably just paid for itself with one job.
Can't weld - guess what? The best in the business all started off the same way - it's a prerequisite step in the process, and certainly not one that should stop you. Buy or scrounge up some scrap pieces of metal (heavy is best to start with), watch some YouTube videos, and have at it. Classes are easy to find too - many community colleges have them - but you don't need them. You'll be much better equipped to build the truck you want, and it's a skill nobody appreciates fully until they have it. The possibilities are endless when you can join metal together. Don't think of it as "I can't weld" - you just haven't learned yet.
One caveat - be safe. Get a good welding helmet, and remember that bare skin gets a pretty impressive sunburn if it's not covered up while you're welding. Ask me how I know
1971 DRW F350 cab and chassis with an Open Road motorhome conversion, Dana 70, 352 (originally 390)/C6, PS, power front discs, and 159" w/b.
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Re: Bumpside Legos?
If they did make an actual Bumpside Lego set, it'd probably be on my Christmas list as well. Played with legos as a kid. Then I found Adult legos, AKA AR-15. What I'm wanting to do with this truck seems like more of the same.
In this case "I can't weld" is correct. I currently cannot weld and I currently do not have time to learn to do so properly.
About 13 years ago I went through the Aircraft Maintenance program at my local tech school. Welding certification was not part of the program, but there was a brief welding class intended to introduce us to welding and teaching how to identify a good weld. At the end of the class the teacher basically told me I had a good eye, but that it was a good thing that welding ability was not required to pass. Never could get my had steady enough to keep a good weld pool going. IIRC the welding he had us doing in the class was TIG, don't recall ever doing MIG welding even though I've probably had access to them all my life.
Paying someone isn't an issue. I have family that would be happy to do the welding for the cost of materials. I'll eventually try to learn welding again, but it won't be until after my boss pulls his head out his ---. Since he took over the shop last year he's wanted us at work 10 hours a day 6 days a week, doesn't leave much free time to learn a new skill and continue making progress on other projects. As long as I have people that are willing and able to do the welding while I'm at work, I'll take advantage of it. The problem is getting everything (people, welder, power and project) in the same place at the same time.
In this case "I can't weld" is correct. I currently cannot weld and I currently do not have time to learn to do so properly.
About 13 years ago I went through the Aircraft Maintenance program at my local tech school. Welding certification was not part of the program, but there was a brief welding class intended to introduce us to welding and teaching how to identify a good weld. At the end of the class the teacher basically told me I had a good eye, but that it was a good thing that welding ability was not required to pass. Never could get my had steady enough to keep a good weld pool going. IIRC the welding he had us doing in the class was TIG, don't recall ever doing MIG welding even though I've probably had access to them all my life.
Paying someone isn't an issue. I have family that would be happy to do the welding for the cost of materials. I'll eventually try to learn welding again, but it won't be until after my boss pulls his head out his ---. Since he took over the shop last year he's wanted us at work 10 hours a day 6 days a week, doesn't leave much free time to learn a new skill and continue making progress on other projects. As long as I have people that are willing and able to do the welding while I'm at work, I'll take advantage of it. The problem is getting everything (people, welder, power and project) in the same place at the same time.
1968 F-100 4x4 long bed - 360 FE - NP435 w/ Dana 21 - PS & PB conversion - Front Disc Swap - 265/75R16 - 1" S.L. & 2" B.L. (to be removed) - Homemade tube bumpers - Warn 8274 - Currently wearing 1970 body
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Re: Bumpside Legos?
Hopefully you get the response you want about your project - wish I could help with that part. I still can't emphasize enough how much welding opens up your horizons though. It's great to have friends and family who can cover that part of a build for you, but it's so nice not to have to rely on anyone. Stuff gets done as it's needed, rather than waiting on someone else's schedule. And don't be put off by TIG - it is the gold standard, but it's nowhere near as easy as MIG for a beginner.
Good luck - hope to see a build thread soon
Good luck - hope to see a build thread soon
1971 DRW F350 cab and chassis with an Open Road motorhome conversion, Dana 70, 352 (originally 390)/C6, PS, power front discs, and 159" w/b.
- 71PA_Highboy
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Re: Bumpside Legos?
Josh,
Where are you.... longbed bumps are all over here, shortbeds are scarce....
As for what to do, overbuild it
I have upgraded just about every moving part on my vehicles, and I rarely have issues with 'it ain't strong enough'.
It may be slow, it may be ugly, but it ALWAYS gets the job done.
Where are you.... longbed bumps are all over here, shortbeds are scarce....
As for what to do, overbuild it
I have upgraded just about every moving part on my vehicles, and I rarely have issues with 'it ain't strong enough'.
It may be slow, it may be ugly, but it ALWAYS gets the job done.
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Re: Bumpside Legos?
Ditto, without a location you're pissing into the wind.
In the mid Atlantic Highboy's are unicorns, F-100 short beds, Sasquatch. F-100 4x4's the Loch Ness monster.
Like this meme, real highboy unicorns are usually just deformed old goats.
In the mid Atlantic Highboy's are unicorns, F-100 short beds, Sasquatch. F-100 4x4's the Loch Ness monster.
Like this meme, real highboy unicorns are usually just deformed old goats.
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Re: Bumpside Legos?
Ditto, where are you at and how far are you willing to go? I have a no rust long bed id be willing to sell. but im in cali.
Rich
1973 f350 super c/s 460/c6 22k orig miles
1972 f350 srw crewcab special 390
1972 f250 4x4 sport custom 390fe Red
1972 f250 4x4 custom 360 FE " Ranger Ric"
1972 f250 4x4 custom 84k og miles 390
1971 f250 4x4 sport custom 56k og miles. 360
1970 f250 4x4 428 fe hp60 205 d60
Dont eat yellow snow.....
1973 f350 super c/s 460/c6 22k orig miles
1972 f350 srw crewcab special 390
1972 f250 4x4 sport custom 390fe Red
1972 f250 4x4 custom 360 FE " Ranger Ric"
1972 f250 4x4 custom 84k og miles 390
1971 f250 4x4 sport custom 56k og miles. 360
1970 f250 4x4 428 fe hp60 205 d60
Dont eat yellow snow.....
- cstoyer
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Re: Bumpside Legos?
250 4x4 bump in my area, i have one but have not seen another for years. 4x4 100 i have yet to see but 2x4 f100 a handful, no more. You have to be willing to shop for parts from anywhere out here and ship everything.
cstoyer
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Re: Bumpside Legos?
Sorry, thought my location was in my profile or signature. Also thought this thread was dead. Guess I was wrong on both counts. Location is now in profile.
Reason for posting this was that I thought I had found a very cheap 71 F-250 4x4 on Craigslist. I like the idea of the F-250s stronger components, but also like my F-100s suspension setup. Both have their strong points and was wandering how to get the best of both. The F-250 was originally listed at $300, after I tried to contact first time seller bumped it to $500. Tried to contact multiple times over the last few weeks and seller never would reply. Going to give up on this one and chalk it up to an unmotivated seller who's wife wanted him to post it.
Now I'm back to looking for just the bed and body panels listed in my sig or a complete longbed donor truck. Kinda liking the idea finding a complete donor that is running or at least set up for a small block (have one I could drop in), so I can drive it while doing a refresh/restore on my 4wd chassis then swap the body once done. I really don't need an F-250, the F-100 is more than capable enough, I was just interested because it was available.
As for driving and shipping. The former depends on condition and price, while the latter probably out of the question. If I had the time I'd drive almost anywhere to get what I wanted if the price was right and/or there was other things I wanted to do in the area. Unfortunately I'm currently limited on both time and transportation, so I'd have to be able to make the round trip in a less than day. Due to current work schedule and truck issues I'm pretty much limited to things in state, but would be able to go into an adjacent state (AL, FL, NC, SC, TN) for the right price and condition. Hope that makes sense.
I spotted a longbed on car-part.com that I'm going to check into tomorrow it's about 50 miles away. The listed it for $300, so I hope it might be in good shape. Same place also has a fender we need for dad's 2000 F-250. If they still have both I might ride down tomorrow or Friday to get his fender and check out that bed.
Reason for posting this was that I thought I had found a very cheap 71 F-250 4x4 on Craigslist. I like the idea of the F-250s stronger components, but also like my F-100s suspension setup. Both have their strong points and was wandering how to get the best of both. The F-250 was originally listed at $300, after I tried to contact first time seller bumped it to $500. Tried to contact multiple times over the last few weeks and seller never would reply. Going to give up on this one and chalk it up to an unmotivated seller who's wife wanted him to post it.
Now I'm back to looking for just the bed and body panels listed in my sig or a complete longbed donor truck. Kinda liking the idea finding a complete donor that is running or at least set up for a small block (have one I could drop in), so I can drive it while doing a refresh/restore on my 4wd chassis then swap the body once done. I really don't need an F-250, the F-100 is more than capable enough, I was just interested because it was available.
As for driving and shipping. The former depends on condition and price, while the latter probably out of the question. If I had the time I'd drive almost anywhere to get what I wanted if the price was right and/or there was other things I wanted to do in the area. Unfortunately I'm currently limited on both time and transportation, so I'd have to be able to make the round trip in a less than day. Due to current work schedule and truck issues I'm pretty much limited to things in state, but would be able to go into an adjacent state (AL, FL, NC, SC, TN) for the right price and condition. Hope that makes sense.
I spotted a longbed on car-part.com that I'm going to check into tomorrow it's about 50 miles away. The listed it for $300, so I hope it might be in good shape. Same place also has a fender we need for dad's 2000 F-250. If they still have both I might ride down tomorrow or Friday to get his fender and check out that bed.
1968 F-100 4x4 long bed - 360 FE - NP435 w/ Dana 21 - PS & PB conversion - Front Disc Swap - 265/75R16 - 1" S.L. & 2" B.L. (to be removed) - Homemade tube bumpers - Warn 8274 - Currently wearing 1970 body
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Re: Bumpside Legos?
Funny, short beds are for sale all over down here, long beds are harder to find (for me) unless it's all rusted out.71PA_Highboy wrote:Josh,
Where are you.... longbed bumps are all over here, shortbeds are scarce....
As for what to do, overbuild it
I have upgraded just about every moving part on my vehicles, and I rarely have issues with 'it ain't strong enough'.
It may be slow, it may be ugly, but it ALWAYS gets the job done.
Honestly I'm not worried about strong enough. Prior to getting his 2000 F-250 that 68 F-100 did everything that dad needed. The 68 will easily pull everything we've got short of his bigger tractor. It would probably pull that too, but this truck was parked before he bought it. Stopping on the other hand was an issue. That's why brakes are the second or third thing on my list to be addressed when I start working on it.
Location fixedRanchero50 wrote:Ditto, without a location you're pissing into the wind.
In the mid Atlantic Highboy's are unicorns, F-100 short beds, Sasquatch. F-100 4x4's the Loch Ness monster.
Well I'm in the South Atlantic, but the truck I was looking at is apparently a Highboy since it is a 71 F-250 4x4. Like I said don't matter now cause seller apparently isn't really interested in selling.
Fortunately I'm not looking for Sasquach and I've already got Nessie. Just need to find a solid long bed for sale, around here that seems to be more akin to snipe hunting.
Middle Georgia. Almost as far away from you as I can get and not be swimming. I'd be interested and if I had the time and means I'd probably take you up on that. There are a lot of things I'd like to see between here and there so a road trip does sound like fun. Unfortunately, that's not a trip I can make in a day or weekend and I highly doubt that dad would donate his time or truck and trailer for the trip. Even if I could make the drive, I think Cali would turn me around at the state line due to certain items that made the trip with me.1972hiboy wrote:Ditto, where are you at and how far are you willing to go? I have a no rust long bed id be willing to sell. but im in cali.
1968 F-100 4x4 long bed - 360 FE - NP435 w/ Dana 21 - PS & PB conversion - Front Disc Swap - 265/75R16 - 1" S.L. & 2" B.L. (to be removed) - Homemade tube bumpers - Warn 8274 - Currently wearing 1970 body
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Re: Bumpside Legos?
Man wish you had been here 6 months ago. South Atlanta here and i hauled a long bed to Maryland to sell it, but up north it brought the money for the trip. Got some resources here and got some parts. Bumps are drying up day by day its crazy. Dent highboy's are still about but also slowing down. You parts in your signature all your hunting???
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woods wrote: The rust holes in my truck were a factory install (very rare).
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Re: Bumpside Legos?
I was here, just even less active than I am now. 6 months ago I thought my little truck was fixed (again) and I had all the time in the world to hunt for parts. Since then it's taken a @#$% again and I've decided to stop sinking money into something that isn't what I want.
Those are the major parts, everyting else is pretty solid. I'm also open to a full truck for the right price (AKA cheap and solid).
I have to have a bed. There is more bondo than metal in this one, and even the bondo is starting to fall out.
Underside of the hood is like Swiss cheese with rust.
So far as I am aware those two are not available aftermarket, I haven't been able to find them if they are.
The passenger side inner fender is mostly in tact, but has the usual rust hole in place of a battery tray. IIRC this is available new, so if I can't find a used one I'll attempt to patch or buy new.
Body wise the only other items I can think of are bumpers. It's currently got home made tube bumpers that dad never quite finished, they'll do until I decide what direction I want to go there.
I'm sure there are other items I'll need, but I want to have a solid body lined up before I start getting it back road worthy. Everything was working when it was parked so it shouldn't take more than a battery, fresh gas, tires, a tune-up, and probably a carb rebuild to get it running again. If acquiring body parts doesn't eat up too much of my funds, I may bypass the carb and purchase a bolt on EFI kit, it'll eventually get one either way. Brakes should be good, but may need new hoses, who knows how old they are. After it's back up and running I'll slowly go through everything and bring it all up to snuff.
Those are the major parts, everyting else is pretty solid. I'm also open to a full truck for the right price (AKA cheap and solid).
I have to have a bed. There is more bondo than metal in this one, and even the bondo is starting to fall out.
Underside of the hood is like Swiss cheese with rust.
So far as I am aware those two are not available aftermarket, I haven't been able to find them if they are.
The passenger side inner fender is mostly in tact, but has the usual rust hole in place of a battery tray. IIRC this is available new, so if I can't find a used one I'll attempt to patch or buy new.
Body wise the only other items I can think of are bumpers. It's currently got home made tube bumpers that dad never quite finished, they'll do until I decide what direction I want to go there.
I'm sure there are other items I'll need, but I want to have a solid body lined up before I start getting it back road worthy. Everything was working when it was parked so it shouldn't take more than a battery, fresh gas, tires, a tune-up, and probably a carb rebuild to get it running again. If acquiring body parts doesn't eat up too much of my funds, I may bypass the carb and purchase a bolt on EFI kit, it'll eventually get one either way. Brakes should be good, but may need new hoses, who knows how old they are. After it's back up and running I'll slowly go through everything and bring it all up to snuff.
1968 F-100 4x4 long bed - 360 FE - NP435 w/ Dana 21 - PS & PB conversion - Front Disc Swap - 265/75R16 - 1" S.L. & 2" B.L. (to be removed) - Homemade tube bumpers - Warn 8274 - Currently wearing 1970 body
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Re: Bumpside Legos?
Flachback F100's out of North Carolina. Ain't cheap but you get a good rust free Western part. Maybe even call him up and see if he can do a drop off on the way home. I condemned my F-250 project because the bed was trashed. Ended up with a F-350 and dump flatbed instead.
'70 F-350 CS Cummins 6BT 10klb truck 64k mile Bahama Blue
Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.
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Re: Bumpside Legos?
I've heard of them and browsed their site before. Haven't inquired about prices yet, but I can imagine that its up there. I'm keeping them in mind as a last resort.
I have considered a wood flat bed as a temporary solution, but this particular truck will have a regular long bed. If I end up acquiring a complete parts/donor truck, the leftovers may get put back together as a second truck with a flat bed.
I have considered a wood flat bed as a temporary solution, but this particular truck will have a regular long bed. If I end up acquiring a complete parts/donor truck, the leftovers may get put back together as a second truck with a flat bed.
1968 F-100 4x4 long bed - 360 FE - NP435 w/ Dana 21 - PS & PB conversion - Front Disc Swap - 265/75R16 - 1" S.L. & 2" B.L. (to be removed) - Homemade tube bumpers - Warn 8274 - Currently wearing 1970 body