***Update***
I tinkered with the brakes a bit more and managed to get the bearing to seat much better. In fact, I think the axle housing groove will probably not be an issue. The driver's side was bad, but the passenger side was toast. It wasn't just down to the rivets. The rivets were worn down to the shoe core, and it was metal against metal. Looks like a PO only did one side of the brakes. The leaking wheel cylinder had been mixing brake fluid with metal shavings, dust, and high friction heat to form a substance that resembles hard plastic. It was a royal pain to remove.
For those who were following my other thread about the brake booster, its boosting days are over. I took it out for a drive after finishing the rear drums, and the brakes work great but require a ton of pressure. Of course, after the short drive, I had to apologize to the old girl for suggesting I might sell her. After sitting for almost two years, I was quickly reminded why we hang on to these classics. You can't beat that big block rumble and the feeling that you are king of the road.
Rear drum brake question
Moderator: FORDification
-
- New Member
- Posts: 241
- Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 8:12 pm
- Location: Pullman, WA
Re: Rear drum brake question
1970 F250 CS: 360, RV cam, Edelbrock Performer 390 intake, Holley 600, headers, Pertronix II, Flamethrower coil.