Cab Damage to extensive?

[Godspeed128]

Should I just get a donor cab ? I've been told everything can be fixed but I'm just not sure it's Worth it

[Ranchero50]

Anything can be repaired but it can't be fixed without removing all the other rusted areas. With that much rust where you can see it and deal with it, you need to understand that there is a lot of other rust that's just waiting to break out. Say you have a 100 hours of work to get that cab ready for paint and @ 600 in material (floors, mounts, corners, roof skin, etc). Pay yourself $10/hr and it all adds up quickly. Few things suck as much as rust repairs. You could probably LTL a naked rust free cab across the states for under $1000. Or buy another nicer truck and part it out.

[Jacksdad]

That's a tough one. Ranchero50 is right - at the very least, the pinch welded seam inside will probably have rust issues too. It's still fixable, but it would certainly be a challenge. I'm the kind of idiot that would take it on, but that doesn't mean it's the most sensible thing to do. Finding a rust free cab would fix all your issues in one fell swoop, and get your rebuild back on track again.
Mine's a camper, and the roof (and cab in general) has no structural rust issues whatsoever - a rare thing if all the bumps I've seen are anything to go by.

.

[Godspeed128]

For now I'm just going to disassemble everything and work on the chassis and work my way up I'll worry about the cab later I have plenty to do in the meantime. I did take the headliner out in the rust isn't too bad mostly surface rust all the damage seems to be within 1 to 2 inches from windshield either way it seems like I'm going to have my hands full if I repair this

[Godspeed128]

Can't stop looking at this mess. Both sides are equally bad rust even goes through the bottom might be better just to cut the top off and find a donor truck top

[wheeble]

my cab drip rail area was worse than that. for a repair that will last a few years, remove the head liner and drill some holes through the headline support rail up through the roof. insert square shank bolts (8-10 bolts) from the roof side through the headliner rail and secure with nuts. crank the bolts till the roof caves to allow you to bury the bolt heads with filler. cut off extra thread protruding with angle grinder. the real problem with that much damage at the drip rail is after repair when you slam the door the roof will lift from pressure and split any filler or weak material. to fix it correctly, you will need to scab in a new/better roof.

[Ranchero50]

The sad thing is a coupe years ago I sold a naked ex camper cab for $150 that had a ton of holes drilled in the roof and the center of the rear wall missing for $150 and they guys who bought it were ecstatic because it didn't have much other rust.

[Jacksdad]

The sad thing is a coupe years ago I sold a naked ex camper cab for $150 that had a ton of holes drilled in the roof and the center of the rear wall missing for $150 and they guys who bought it were ecstatic because it didn't have much other rust.

You just described mine. I was willing to overlook the walk through hole in the back of the cab because of the rust free condition of the rest of the sheet metal. Having seen what had happened to the the roof and drip channels on most of the bumps I'd come across, I figured it was a worthwhile trade off. The sad thing is the camper's auxilliary gas tank must have been a little bigger than anticipated, so they beat the hell out of the perfectly good cab corner to make it fit, and cut a nice big hole through the sheet metal and crossmember to route the filler neck up to the passenger side.

[Godspeed128]

Ok guys I have found this 1969 f100 Ranger and guy says cab is in good condition also hood is rust free I need both for my 1967 model. Will I have any fit problems I have a short wheel base 3 speed and the donor truck is long wheel and automatic.

Charles

[Ranchero50]

It's probably worth going to look at. 'Rust free' is a way to generous and overused term. That truck has rust, the cab does too if you look hard enough. At least with your cab you'll have an idea where to look on this one. Body line isn't sagging so hopefully at least the cab mounts are OK and not held up with 2x4's.

[Godspeed128]

Guy is asking 700 steering column is broken eng is a 390 and starts missing most chrom but it has the what I need

[TNIceWolf]

OK....700 bucks for the truck.....you get what you want in somewhat better condition and have parts to sell off.......not so bad of a deal. Just make sure the cab is solid.

[Wilfred of Ivanhoe]

For $700 I would definitely buy that! Not a bad deal at all.

[daveford72]

I have a 67 cab that was rusted out like that. I just welded flat metal from the out side lip of the gutter up 2 the flat of the roof. Kinda looks factory. It was a spare cab so I thought Y not! It was rusted out anyway.

[Jacksdad]

Godspeed128 - did you get the donor truck?