LOOKING FOR A BOLT ID CHART FOR RE-ASSEMBLY???
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LOOKING FOR A BOLT ID CHART FOR RE-ASSEMBLY???
You know the drill, trucks ready to put back together & I have 2 coffee cans of bolts!
Just wondering if there's some kind of reference chart out there that someone has put together that shows what bolt/size/washer/etc.. combo goes together for body assembly. My truck is a 72 F-100 Ranger XLT. All help is GREATLY appreciated
Like what bolts hold fenders, door hinges to pillar, hinged to door, inner fenders, radiator support, etc...
Just wondering if there's some kind of reference chart out there that someone has put together that shows what bolt/size/washer/etc.. combo goes together for body assembly. My truck is a 72 F-100 Ranger XLT. All help is GREATLY appreciated
Like what bolts hold fenders, door hinges to pillar, hinged to door, inner fenders, radiator support, etc...
- HIO Silver
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Re: LOOKING FOR A BOLT ID CHART FOR RE-ASSEMBLY???
Good luck. Don't know of one unless you get an assembly manual like they have for early Mustangs.
Why wasn't the hardware bagged and tagged?
Why wasn't the hardware bagged and tagged?
- Canonman67
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Re: LOOKING FOR A BOLT ID CHART FOR RE-ASSEMBLY???
Most (if not all) of the body panel bolts are 5/16 18 with a washer attached. Other than that, I don't know. I bought 3 boxes of Ziplocs before I broke anything down, even with that I still have a few questions about what goes where. Just a suggestion, go through some of the build threads to see how others have put things together.
- sargentrs
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Re: LOOKING FOR A BOLT ID CHART FOR RE-ASSEMBLY???
I'm replacing virtually all of my bolts with new ones. Grade 8 in high stress applications, stainless in high corrosion areas, black oxide in certain visibility areas, and zinc plated for the rest. However, I did bag them as I disassembled and wrote the group on the bags. Unfortunately, after 4+ years and much handling, a lot of the labels have rubbed off. Most are available at your local hardware store and many of the oddball one's can be found here https://www.auveco.com/
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
- convincor
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Re: LOOKING FOR A BOLT ID CHART FOR RE-ASSEMBLY???
68 Custom Cab Shorty, 390, C6, 9"-3.50:1 Currie T/L
"Still Plays With Trucks"
http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m41/convincor/F100/
"Still Plays With Trucks"
http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m41/convincor/F100/
- habu
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Re: LOOKING FOR A BOLT ID CHART FOR RE-ASSEMBLY???
Same here for going to Costco or where ever and buying a good supply of label ready ziploc bags and several sharpies. Saved my bacon a couple times.
Auveco is good, little spendy, but very good to get the exact bolt, U or J nut.
For other areas like suspension or engine or front-end where I didn't want to use the auveco bolt I went to totally stainless.com to get my kit. Luckily they have each section, cab, bumper, interior, fender...etc labeled in each bag of the kit they send you. Since it's stainless it is not cheap but it is made in the good ol' USA and they are a good company to work with. When I rebuild my rear suspension I will use their stainless kit to replace all of the rear suspension nuts and bolts as well as replacing the bed bolts.
Auveco is good, little spendy, but very good to get the exact bolt, U or J nut.
For other areas like suspension or engine or front-end where I didn't want to use the auveco bolt I went to totally stainless.com to get my kit. Luckily they have each section, cab, bumper, interior, fender...etc labeled in each bag of the kit they send you. Since it's stainless it is not cheap but it is made in the good ol' USA and they are a good company to work with. When I rebuild my rear suspension I will use their stainless kit to replace all of the rear suspension nuts and bolts as well as replacing the bed bolts.
1969 F250 Camper Special, 390 2v, C6, PB, Bendix PS, AC, Dana 60. 3rd owner
Soon rebuilt 390, not stock, will be swapped in.
Soon rebuilt 390, not stock, will be swapped in.
- sargentrs
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Re: LOOKING FOR A BOLT ID CHART FOR RE-ASSEMBLY???
Unless you're going for "period correct" or concours restoraton, with a few exceptions, like fender bolts, steering box bolts, suspension bolts, etc, everything is pretty straightforward. Your local Ace Hardware or Home Depot carry the basic bolt sizes and they're inexpensive. For more special applications, I've bought a lot from McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#fastening-joining/=10l00x5 Don't get hung up on exact length when an 1/8" longer or shorter will work. Your basic sizes are simple and virtually all are coarse thread. 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" and 1/2" diameter will cover 80% of all the diameters. Get 3/4", 1", 1-1/4" and 1-1/2" lengths. The smaller the diameter and length, the more you'll use. Start with 10-20 of each. The smaller, the more you'll need. The above is 16 different combinations so 160-320 bolts. They run anywhere from .10 to .30 each so you're looking at $50-$100 max total. Get a box of hex nuts, flat washers and lock washers for each diameter. Armed with this, you'll be able to assemble a large majority of your parts. Also don't be concerned that it has the washer already captured on it like the fender bolts. That was more for convenience in assembly at Ford. If the original had the washer incorporated into the head with serrations on the underside, then you should probably try to source those through Auveco or McMaster Carr. Use Grade 8 for high stress situations like suspension.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: LOOKING FOR A BOLT ID CHART FOR RE-ASSEMBLY???
sarg, you are always so helpful. Thanks for all the info.
I have most the bolts so Im not looking at trying to buy them, I just have tons of bolts that im not sure if they held the inner fenders, fenders, brake booster, etc...
And for the rest of you I really appreciate input anytime I ask a question on here, this is an invaluable source of info. But my question was is there a bolt ID chart out there, Not a question on how to organize a resto project. I understand things are not as they need to be & not looking for help on organization.
I have most the bolts so Im not looking at trying to buy them, I just have tons of bolts that im not sure if they held the inner fenders, fenders, brake booster, etc...
And for the rest of you I really appreciate input anytime I ask a question on here, this is an invaluable source of info. But my question was is there a bolt ID chart out there, Not a question on how to organize a resto project. I understand things are not as they need to be & not looking for help on organization.
- convincor
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Re: LOOKING FOR A BOLT ID CHART FOR RE-ASSEMBLY???
No.
68 Custom Cab Shorty, 390, C6, 9"-3.50:1 Currie T/L
"Still Plays With Trucks"
http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m41/convincor/F100/
"Still Plays With Trucks"
http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m41/convincor/F100/
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Re: LOOKING FOR A BOLT ID CHART FOR RE-ASSEMBLY???
some have a unique looking design on the washer for instance. What are they for?
- convincor
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Re: LOOKING FOR A BOLT ID CHART FOR RE-ASSEMBLY???
Post a pic
68 Custom Cab Shorty, 390, C6, 9"-3.50:1 Currie T/L
"Still Plays With Trucks"
http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m41/convincor/F100/
"Still Plays With Trucks"
http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m41/convincor/F100/
- sargentrs
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Re: LOOKING FOR A BOLT ID CHART FOR RE-ASSEMBLY???
Also how many of those that you're trying to identify. If it's a lot, probably inner/outer fender. If it's 8-16 or so, consider a door hinge. The funny pattern under the washer is probably that serration I mentioned. Those typically go in a application that you don't want to loosen because it's a PITA to get to later. Like door hinge that's behind the door panel or inner fender to cab/radiator support.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.