1970 F-250 Floor Pans

[tedron24]

So last September I picked up a 1970 project truck and I thought the floor pans felt solid, but in the midst of putting a new stereo in it today I discovered that there are basically no floor pans just some assorted pieces of sheet metal covering the holes (good news is I found where the rattle comes from), anyway this summer I want to fix this problem and protect the inside so that it can be restored. So since I have little experience with metal work and no experience in welding any advice, tips, and hints would be super helpful. Also I am not sure whether to just use flat sheet metal, or if there is somewhere to buy new floor pans that don't break the budget.

[hillcountryflt]

Lots of source for floor plans from Dennis Carpenter to any number of other sources. If I keep my 71, I will be going through the same thing as well. You will find lots of information on ways to attach the floor pans - I have seen where some simply rivet them to the existing floor (doesn't seem like a good idea for a number of reasons) to cutting out the rusted portion and welding in the new ones. Luckily, they say, this can be done with the easiest of welders to use, the mig welder (oh expect a lot of discussion on welders). Floor pans don't seem too expensive, but shipping might be.

[tedron24]

My second thought was to get a flux core mig welder to keep it cheap, at first I was thinking about rivets but those don't provide good protection from the elements which will eventually return my floor pans to their current state defeating the purpose. Hopefully I can get some tips on doing good strong welds from a little mig welder.

[HIO Silver]

Consider a welding machine an investment that pays for itself down the road... it can last a lifetime so I suggest stepping up to a one that uses shielding gas. Buy a quality welder like from Miller, Lincoln, or Hobart. You can always "back" use and go with flux core in a pinch but shielded welds are the way to go. Look into the Miller 140AS.. a welder that is really use friendly and perfect for bodywork. A Miller 211AS is also a nice machine.. swapping between 110v and 220v is as simply as using an adapter plug and changing the wire. I now have both models because it was somewhat inconvenient to change wire sizes due to the multiple projects I'm working on.

In terms of cab mounts, AVOID LMC Truck!!! ... as I have read and seen on this and FTE, their fitment is really poor or inaccurately shaped. Go with Dennis Carpenter mounts or TabCo mounts.