BobbyFord Short Bed

[BobbyFord]

New caliper pistons arrived today. NONE were available at any parts warehouse near me.
Found them on Amazon

One of the old ones had a blemish that eventually would've become an issue.

[crazyhorse]

Mr Bobby, thanks for taking your time to explain it.
I understand how it is done now.
Thanks again and good luck with your truck.

[BobbyFord]

I made a little progress today before the temp drove me back into the house. This truck is definitely not a trailer queen, it's a driver, but some of this stuff is too damn ugly to go back on like it is. The springs, radius arms and misc. hardware will go off to the blaster on Monday so I can start with a fresh surface.


I used a flat washer and large channel-locks to press the little grease seal into the spindle.

The factory disc spindles have a foam gasket behind the dust shield. I made a couple out of foam neoprene.

Not a lot of progress but it felt good to turn some wrenches again.

[BobbyFord]

When rebuilding calipers, master cylinders or wheel cylinders don't forget the McKay's. Makes reassembly a breeze.

[BobbyFord]

I'm going to pull the steering box while I've got the front end apart and send it to Red-Head Steering Gear in Washington for a rebuild.

[BobbyFord]

Fresh looking goodies

[BobbyFord]

I got some work done today. I removed the old booster/master assy., and also removed the power steering gear so I can send it to Washington to get machined and rebuilt. I bought some muriatic acid to remove rust from some of these 40+ year old parts. All of the suspension bolts, including the pitman arm will be going to the plater to get black zinc plated.
Here's a before & after acid dip of the pitman arm...

[jimmy828]

Man, that acid dip looks like it works well. Did you just drop the part in the acid and let it soak awhile? Are there more steps removing the rust with the acid?

[BobbyFord]

Man, that acid dip looks like it works well. Did you just drop the part in the acid and let it soak awhile? Are there more steps removing the rust with the acid?

Just drop the parts in and let them sit. Do this outside because the acid bubbles and gives off caustic gases. Do not breathe the fumes. About 20 minutes in the acid is all it takes. Clean off any grease prior to acid dipping. Have a water bucket nearby with a box of Arm & Hammer dissolved in it to dip the parts in afterwards to neutralize the acid. Dry immediately because they will begin to rust right away. Etch primer and paint the parts or send them to the plater. Parts come out of the acid like brand new.

[jimmy828]

Man, that acid dip looks like it works well. Did you just drop the part in the acid and let it soak awhile? Are there more steps removing the rust with the acid?

Just drop the parts in and let them sit. Do this outside because the acid bubbles and gives off caustic gases. Do not breathe the fumes. About 20 minutes in the acid is all it takes. Clean off any grease prior to acid dipping. Have a water bucket nearby with a box of Arm & Hammer dissolved in it to dip the parts in afterwards to neutralize the acid. Dry immediately because they will begin to rust right away. Etch primer and paint the parts or send them to the plater. Parts come out of the acid like brand new.

Thanks for the reply Bobby. I'm going to give it a try on some small parts.

[Heirloom]

I keep forgetting I have some. Diggin out my 4 gallons today.

Looking good BobbyFord!

[BobbyFord]

I mocked up the booster/master assy yesterday. I wanted the aftermarket booster to attach to the brake pedal exactly like the stock booster. I bought the linkage kit for the booster but it isn't exactly like stock. I needed to cut the end off of the old booster rod and graft it onto parts from the new booster linkage kit.

[BobbyFord]

I got some bolts back from the plater today. I never had anything black zinc plated.
This is what I started with...

This is what I got back. This is not paint, rather black zinc plating. It's suppose to be very rust resistant. We'll see.


I'm in the process of modifying the booster bracket. I could've just mounted the booster but I wanted the bracket to block off the firewall hole and also eliminate the plastic tube that the rod goes through. This is what I started with...

Here's the bracket after some modification. I'm going to weld in a 2-1/8" ID tube to cover the rod hole and it will come out flush to the booster. There will be a gasket between the bracket and the firewall and a circular gasket between the booster and the 2-1/8" tube.

I also began rebuilding the steering coupler. I'm using the Dorman kit.

I took the original coupler apart and put the metal parts into a cup of muriatic acid.

Once out of the acid, rinsed and dried, a coat of etch primer.

Then gloss black Rustoleum Pro paint.

Now that I've got the bolts and hardware back, I'm planning on reassembling the front suspension this weekend.

[robroy]

Good day Bobby! I've been enjoying your thread, and am especially interested in the metal refinishing methods you're using. The photos you've been posting are truly excellent--thank you.

The only thorough rust removal method I've used thus far has been blasting (with Black Diamond coal slag). That was nasty work, took a ton of air and made a huge mess--the acid you're using seems like a better approach, especially when the parts are small enough to easily dip.

I have a vague memory of reading that acid treatments can make metal become brittle, yet maybe that applies only to thin sheet metal (or maybe it's a myth; I have no idea). Also, how do you get rid of the acid once you're done with it? I wouldn't know how to handle that. Though that acid is probably heinously nasty stuff, high-pressure torrents of coal slag aren't so pleasant to deal with either.

Thanks again for the outstanding photos Bobby,
Robroy

Edit: I forgot to mention how much I like what you're planning to do with that break booster firewall seal--the one the factory used sure was flimsey, wasn't it.

[BobbyFord]

Good day Bobby! I've been enjoying your thread, and am especially interested in the metal refinishing methods you're using. The photos you've been posting are truly excellent--thank you.

The only thorough rust removal method I've used thus far has been blasting (with Black Diamond coal slag). That was nasty work, took a ton of air and made a huge mess--the acid you're using seems like a better approach, especially when the parts are small enough to easily dip.

I have a vague memory of reading that acid treatments can make metal become brittle, yet maybe that applies only to thin sheet metal (or maybe it's a myth; I have no idea). Also, how do you get rid of the acid once you're done with it? I wouldn't know how to handle that. Though that acid is probably heinously nasty stuff, high-pressure torrents of coal slag aren't so pleasant to deal with either.

Thanks again for the outstanding photos Bobby,
Robroy

Edit: I forgot to mention how much I like what you're planning to do with that break booster firewall seal--the one the factory used sure was flimsey, wasn't it.

Robroy,
Very nice to hear from you. How is #50 coming along?
I've been recycling the muriatic acid (dumping it back into the gallon container and reusing it.) I have options at work to properly dispose of the acid once I'm finished with it.
Luckily, I've reconnected with the guy that used to do the bodywork on my dad's Mustangs. I found out that he has a glassbead cabinet that I can use Also, he has a couple of Mustangs and an old E Type Jag in pieces that he needs some mechanical assembly help with. I'm going to help him get these cars assembled and he's going to bodywork my truck and then we'll paint it together. We will just barter labor. Works for me.

Yes, the booster seal is a bit weak. I have a few hours into this bracket and it still isn't finished I've changed the modification twice and have finally decided on something. I will use a paper or cork gasket between the bracket and the firewall and a neoprene gasket between the bracket and the booster. This will eliminate the plastic tube and the bracket & booster will be sealed. The modded bracket will still be useable with the stock booster, although I'm using an aftermarket booster.
(These pics are from an iPhone 4 so the quality isn't so good.)



I'm going to try to finish the bracket and get the I-Beams installed tomorrow.