Fix the rust and repaint original colors. Sticking with original color saves you time and money over a full color change.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
If you just clearcoat over the rust and old paint, it will make it harder for someone to make it nice later. Someone sprayed black over the original Bahama Blue on my truck but only on the driver's side. (?????) It is taking 3 times longer to strip the side they "improved".
1967 F100 SWB
1991 Thunderbird 5.0 with fully ported gt40 heads, cobra intake (also ported) and a trickflow stage 2 cam, manual steering, and custom 3" exhaust
Considering these trucks never came with a clear coat; no don't clear coat it. Sand, remove, or convert the rust. Patch any cancer. Apply, sand, and smooth body filler. Prime with high build primer, sand, prime, and sand again. Paint with 2-3 light coats of base color. Let paint cure, wet sand, re paint any bad spots, cure, wet sand again. Polish and wax.
I agree with the fact that the truck didn't come with a clear coat from the factory but the rat truck or patina'd look are really hot right know I personally like them putting a flat clear over the factory paint and rust that is there will simply preserve the truck and keep it so you can still drive wash it and keep it from getting worse so I say clear it
Except the rust will just eat through the clear. If you want the "patina" look just leave it alone. If you want it to last another 40 years sand it down, cleanup the rust, and repaint it.