All in effort to make the truck more water tight, I'm replacing the drip rail sealer as the stuff inside the rail was some sort of dryrot house caulk right over the cracked up original sealer. It held water under it that seeped through all the numorous holes. I scrapped all of the old filler out with a 1/4 inch srewdriver and a rubber malet to hit the back of it. I got 95% of it out and all that's left shouldn't be an issue but I can't easily remove it without messing up the paint. From what I saw before removing the sealer I thought I'd need some fiberglass filler but only a small amount of surface rust existed. I taped everything off and put POR15 inside the bottom of the rail where there was surface rust. It is now completely dry. Should I lightly sand the POR before using the new sealer? How do I make sure the new sealer is going to dry flat? Does the sealer need to go in the vertical drip rail part by the back edge of the door? Here's a link to what I'm going to be using http://www.levineautoparts.com/transtar4172.html
Thanks
Questions on Drip Rail Sealant Application
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Questions on Drip Rail Sealant Application
1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C