Final gloss - struggling

[sargentrs]

Thanks for the info Pete! At $29/qt it's actually cheaper than others I've seen. I've got about half a small bottle of 3M left and when I'm through playing with that I'll try the Sure Finish. I read mixed comments, typical, but almost everybody said they stand behind their products if they're not satisfied so sounds like a.good bunch of people.

[PetesPonies]

I cannot see how anyone good give a bad report. Use it with a wool buff first. Buff with pressure but at a slow speed. Buff until it begins to disappear. Then switch to a yellow foam pad, no reason to remove the material ( big advantage ). Apply compound to foam buff and buff the same way, slow but with pressure. The material breaks down and becomes smaller, thats why you don't need a finishing compound or a swirl remover. Buff until it is completely gone. The finish should be perfect and I mean that. The only time I have seen someone in person not get the gloss theyu wanted is when they were afraid to add the proper pressure. I went over the area they were buffing and in 15 seconds, it was perfect. Then seeing me apply teh needed pressure, they were able to get the same results. You don't want to use a lot of material and you should not be slinging it around. Keep the buff slow and use pressure.

[sargentrs]

By slow, can you put that in a guesstimated rpm range? I have a 600 rpm-3000 rpm variable speed buffer and I have wool, yellow, white and black foam pads with a cushioned backing plate. I think I've got the preferred equipment, now I know the products, just need to learn the technique Thanks for taking the time to help.

[PetesPonies]

about 1000-1500. This is slower than what most people are used to buffing at. I also forgot to mention another time saving benefit. The excess material doesn't dry hard. I know I have spent a lot of time in the past with different materials that hardened, dried in door jambs and the like. Sometimes it was damn difficult to remove. This material stays soft, easily wipes away even after sitting hours. I wish I made money on it I;m just passing on a good product, I have no ownship or make nothing from it.

[sargentrs]

Thanks again Pete. I'm going to order me some tonight. I'm ready to tackle this again, I think.

[67 F100]

Ah now I see why you are having to go to 600. That is a lot of OP. Even if you can get it out using 600 going from 600 to 1500 is very very difficult to remove all your sanding scratches and it won't shine if you miss some.

In my opinion I would never over reduce paint. Mix it per the P sheet and work on your gun settings and speed. Also use as slow of a reducer as you can which will help your paint to flow out on your surface and lay flat.

If this was mine I would sand all that flat and shoot another wet coat right on the verge of running I wouldn't even try and buff that rear window area out.

This is a single stage black. If you look at the flat panel I layed it on wet with a slow reducer and didn't cut and buff that's straight off the gun. I'm not saying you can do that right now but you want to "shoot" for closer than what you have on the rear of the cab to start with before you start sanding and buffing.

[sargentrs]

Thanks for the input!