Project Rust Repair: Body and Frame (Pics)
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- Subzero
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- Location: Hampton Roads, Virginia
Project Rust Repair: Body and Frame (Pics)
As with any 45+ year old truck, I have some rust. Although I've been told my own truck isn't bad ( even by the money snatching restoration place) I still want to fix the rust. So, Im about to repair all the rust I can possibly do with my limited budget on my 1968 F100.I guess because the truck is a southern truck and faired better than one thats been in Hampton Roads its whole life. I seem to keep finding more and more rust as I fix things!Im going to use POR15 on some things and Eastwood Rust Encapsulater on other although Im not sure which areas I"ll use which. Let's play it by ear. I have some questions I would like to ask along with pictures. Ive just about completed rust repair on my 2002 F150 and now its the F100s turn. In the end I want to have a fine truck ready to go to any show and also ready to take me anywhere I want to go. I have absolutely no bodywork experience and very little tools to do so ( its that buget I mentioned before ).
Here are some pictures of the frame. How does your own frame compare rust wise? Is this bad rust that should be treated very soon or could I wait till next spring to paint it with rust paint? My area does salt the roads if it snows which it usually does snow a couple times. Should I be concerned by this or is the truck a true surviver like the people say?
Here is a picture of the cab corner viewed from the back. As you can see circled in blue there is a tiny rust hole through the metal. What is the best way to repair this that will last? Im going to put some POR15 on it tomorrow and that might fill it in anyway.
Here are some pictures of the frame. How does your own frame compare rust wise? Is this bad rust that should be treated very soon or could I wait till next spring to paint it with rust paint? My area does salt the roads if it snows which it usually does snow a couple times. Should I be concerned by this or is the truck a true surviver like the people say?
Here is a picture of the cab corner viewed from the back. As you can see circled in blue there is a tiny rust hole through the metal. What is the best way to repair this that will last? Im going to put some POR15 on it tomorrow and that might fill it in anyway.
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Last edited by Subzero on Sat Oct 19, 2013 5:15 pm, edited 2 times in total.
1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
- Subzero
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 734
- Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2013 8:02 pm
- Location: Hampton Roads, Virginia
Re: Project Rust Repair: Body and Frame (Pics)
This is a picture of the cab on the top right of where the drivers door is and the drip rail above it. The passnegers side looks exactly the same. Ive ordered some gutter and flashing caulk as recomened by another forum member to repalce the old drip rail caulk. Im going to scrape out all the old caulk as best I can but befroe I lay the new caulk in Im going to put a little bit of POR15 down inside the rail to stop the rust. How should I go about repairing the paint side on the cab where the rust is making the paint crack? Is this a normal rust place on these trucks like the cab corners?
Thanks in advance
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1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
- Subzero
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 734
- Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2013 8:02 pm
- Location: Hampton Roads, Virginia
Re: Project Rust Repair: Body and Frame (Pics)
Got some things done today. I'm now finished with the F150 POR15 job . Looks good too. Now I just need to remember how to put it back together ( forgot to take pictures). I painted the cab corners and I used painters tap to make a nice "box" where I needed to put POR15 on. Only problem was the passenger side painted wanted to peel off when I removed the tape? I decided to just continue and put top coat on and see how it holds up. I thought I had degreased it well but apparently not enough for the paint to adhere well. I'll just keep an eye on that side and hope for the best. As for the hole, it still remains. The drivers side came out really good. Pictures coming soon of the newly painted corners. Everything on the underside of that truck has grease, dirt, or both on it. That grease is probably protecting it pretty good from moisture so I'm only trying to remove what I have to and I could already see where the grease had come off while preparing for the POR15 ON the frame and little rust spots are forming on the unprotected metal. The goal of this mild fix up is I want this truck to be ready for another 45 years of driving around. Next year it will hopefully get a quality repaint instead of this cheap Macco overspray job, and a new exhaust system. Maybe in a couple years a engine rebuild ( possibly my own doings). But for this week I will be getting the seat reupholsetered and I'm going to get to the bottom of this carb issue. I still need some help with the above posted questions but I just wanted to give an update.
Last edited by Subzero on Sat Oct 19, 2013 5:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
- sargentrs
- 100% FORDified!
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- Location: Georgia, Jasper
Re: Project Rust Repair: Body and Frame (Pics)
As far as the above pics of the frame goes, I don't see how one more winter season is going to make it that much worse. The rust is not flaky, just pretty heavy surface rust that'll probably brush off pretty well. Those areas of the cab, I'd use a wire wheel on a drill and strip the paint from those areas, brushing the rust off and then hit it with some primer and sealer or you could dab some POR-15 on it too.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
- Subzero
- Blue Oval Fan
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- Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2013 8:02 pm
- Location: Hampton Roads, Virginia
Re: Project Rust Repair: Body and Frame (Pics)
The rust is starting to flake in some areas in small patches. If I keep the frame coated in some WD40 I think I should be good for awhile until spring when I can get a compressor and paint gun. I did the F150 with a brush and its not as neat as id like so I'm going to try to spray the paint this time for a neater finish.
1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
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- New Member
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Re: Project Rust Repair: Body and Frame (Pics)
Don't use either product. Check out Master Series . . use it.
Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance
Mustang RUSToration & Performance
- Subzero
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 734
- Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2013 8:02 pm
- Location: Hampton Roads, Virginia
Re: Project Rust Repair: Body and Frame (Pics)
Just to update, I've done a lot more bodywork than originally planned. I ended up repairing some door corner rust in both doors and fixing a very bad looking rust spot in the drivers side floor. I knew about both but decided it was now or never and got to work. I only have about two hours of daylight when I get home to work so it took me about 5 or 6 days to finish everything. I ended up working righ until and passed dark tonight to get everything finished up.
Here's how I went about fixing the door corners and the floor.
First I sanded all the loose rust out and took a dermel to get rid of all the rotten metal. Turns out the holes were near twice as big once I removed all of it too. I then prepped everything according to the POR15 directions. After that I just put on two good coats of POR, and then I filled in the holes with fiberglass for structure and a little body filler to finish it off. I used some paint that was very close to the trucks paint to make it all look good. Everything now wont rust and looks better than it did before. I know its not a pro job but I'd say I didn't do bad for a first timer and I'm proud of what I did nonetheless.
Here's how I went about fixing the door corners and the floor.
First I sanded all the loose rust out and took a dermel to get rid of all the rotten metal. Turns out the holes were near twice as big once I removed all of it too. I then prepped everything according to the POR15 directions. After that I just put on two good coats of POR, and then I filled in the holes with fiberglass for structure and a little body filler to finish it off. I used some paint that was very close to the trucks paint to make it all look good. Everything now wont rust and looks better than it did before. I know its not a pro job but I'd say I didn't do bad for a first timer and I'm proud of what I did nonetheless.
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Last edited by Subzero on Tue Oct 22, 2013 10:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
- Subzero
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 734
- Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2013 8:02 pm
- Location: Hampton Roads, Virginia
Re: Project Rust Repair: Body and Frame (Pics)
Here's some more pictures of the repairs. I did the passenger door first to get the hang of things. The drivers door looks much better after some necessary practice. The hole that is pictured in the cab corner has been fiber glassed in too, I just don't have a picture of it to show. Now the only thing that remains is the drip rail and I'll be done for awhile. What would be a good tool to get out all the old drip rail sealer and not mess up my cabs roof paint job?
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
- sargentrs
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 9866
- Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 9:30 am
- Location: Georgia, Jasper
Re: Project Rust Repair: Body and Frame (Pics)
Good job! Those inner door corners are a pain. Such an odd detail to match and make look good. I had to live with "good enough" on mine.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
- Subzero
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 734
- Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2013 8:02 pm
- Location: Hampton Roads, Virginia
Re: Project Rust Repair: Body and Frame (Pics)
Thanks, The paint is actually still wet in the pics so its not as obvious as it looks now. Good enough is fine for me as next year I can hopefully have the truck repainted then everything will match.
1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C