As some of you may have read in another one of m posts Im struggleing with a rust issue on my 2002 F150. I figure rust is commonon older cars so I might get more help from this forum and more people who incounter rust might see it. I have read alot about various "treatments" for rust. It seems that there really is no treatment that will actually stop existing rust after it has happened but only ways to low the spread. My truck was exposed to salt water from being on the beach and the previous owner lived there (OBX) so im not sure it could all be tracked down very easily. Ive taken it to a few places and they all said that something should be done now to stop the spread but they all declined on actually doing the job for lack of equipment or just amount of work it would take to do it right. POR15 and Eastwood rust products both seem to work but ive read many stories of there flaws so Im not sure which way to go on self applied products for rust. Some places apparently will sandblast your frame or other parts to remove rust. I can always sell the truck but I want to make a well thought out decision as it means alot to me as it has everything I wanted for a DD ( leather, 4WD, spray in liner, V8, flowmasters and intake). The body on the truck is in great rust free shape supriseingly. For the most part its just the areas around the engine and a few in the rear that are worse off especially the radiator and trans cooler support. The frame aint too bad it looks like to me. I was able to pull some "rust chips" from off the top of that radiator support that were around 1' by 1'. When I had inspected the truck before buying a skid plate covered most of the worse parts and it wasnt till later i noticed the extent of it. I also learned just recently that 97-03 F150s rust easier than other Ford trucks of same year. My main goal is to find out that if I did try my best at repairing this would it just resurface again, possibly elsewhere too? Could I just replace that support with one from a junk yard and deal with the frame? It looks to be well in there so it might be difficult to get to trying to clean it up inside the truck. What do y'all think of this rust and what some of my options are now that I have pictures up?
Thanks
-Subzero
Rust Issue- Decisions To Make
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Subzero
- Blue Oval Fan
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Rust Issue- Decisions To Make
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Last edited by Subzero on Sat Aug 31, 2013 10:36 pm, edited 3 times in total.
1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
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Subzero
- Blue Oval Fan
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- Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2013 8:02 pm
- Location: Hampton Roads, Virginia
Re: Rust Issue- Decisions To Make
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PetesPonies
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Re: Rust Issue- Decisions To Make
I thin layer of rust is natures own protection. YOu have nothing there that is a problem. If you want to do something, buy some Master Series and get under there and coat it.
Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance
Mustang RUSToration & Performance
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Subzero
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Re: Rust Issue- Decisions To Make
I know the frame isn't bad. I'm not really caring about that. Just that radiator support- it has some serious pitting and a few rust holes. I've ordered some POR15 a few days ago for both of my trucks. I hope its what they say it is.
1972 F100 Sport Custom-2WD, Aqua Blue and Wimbleton White, LWB, 302 V8 and C4 trans, P/S, P/B - under construction
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
Gone but not forgotten: 1968 F100 Ranger- 2WD, LWB, original rebuilt 360 V8, Autolite 2bbl carb, C6 Trans, Hedman Headers, Powermaster Racing Starter, H-Pipe and Glasspacks, P/S, P/B, A/C
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motzingg
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Re: Rust Issue- Decisions To Make
POR 15 is awesome, i love it and use it everywhere. If i was a girl i'd probably paint my toenails with it. It stops rust anywhere you can get it applied to bare metal.
The tough part (the part that the shop didn't want to do) is removing all the self-tapping screws that they use to put sheet metal cars together nowadays. Thats usually where the rust starts. You'll have to remove all the plastic trim pieces, oil cooler, random junk bolted on, strip all the paint and wire wheel it clean, paint it and put it back together.
The nice thing about it is you dont have to get every bit of rust off, just the scaly crusties, a knotted cup brush and an angle grinder will do the trick pretty quick. TSP or the por-15 brand cleaner, let it dry and paint it. I usually use one of those little foam trim rollers or a throwaway paint brush.
The tough part (the part that the shop didn't want to do) is removing all the self-tapping screws that they use to put sheet metal cars together nowadays. Thats usually where the rust starts. You'll have to remove all the plastic trim pieces, oil cooler, random junk bolted on, strip all the paint and wire wheel it clean, paint it and put it back together.
The nice thing about it is you dont have to get every bit of rust off, just the scaly crusties, a knotted cup brush and an angle grinder will do the trick pretty quick. TSP or the por-15 brand cleaner, let it dry and paint it. I usually use one of those little foam trim rollers or a throwaway paint brush.