Why won't my doors close tight

[jocoflyer]

I am having the exact same problem with both doors on my '72 F100. When the doors are closed I have about 1/2" to 3/4" inch gab between the door and the the body on the latch side of door. The door is very snug when latched and 'pops' open when the exterior button is pushed. The reveal is consistent on all 4 door edges for both doors. I have tried adjusting the post that is attached to the door frame that the door should latch to, but it didn't seem to make a difference. The door weatherstrip was replaced over a year ago but the problem was there before WS was replaced and does not seem to be a factor.
Door is latched in all photos. Sometimes if you push the door to close it, it kind of bounces back at you with out latching.
They have actually popped open a couple times while driving.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
I have messed with the hinge-side adjustments with no success as well.
Joe

[elgemcdlf]

Sounds like you are only on the 1st catch of the latch. They are 2 stage. My guess would be you are adjusting the wrong way. Moving in thinking that will pull the door in. You are probably too far in for the 2nd stage to catch. Try moving the post the latch catches onto outward.

[sargentrs]

Check this out and see if it gives a clue on something you haven't tried. http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0804c ... ewall.html I've read of a lot of guys pointing out that, after replacing the weatherstripping, the doors being so tight they had trouble closing them. They usually say it takes care of itself after the weatherstripping gets broken in but that normally only took a few weeks. Since you've had yours in a year, it should already be at that point. Inspect your weatherstripping closely for areas that look like the doors not seating as tightly as other areas. Maybe that'll help pinpoint areas of binding? As a last resort, maybe slit the strip along the inside, not at the mating surface, to allow it to flatten a little more?

[68 Ford Stepside]

A friend of mine has been a commercial body man for thirty years. He usually doesn't have any problem with original doors that came on the the truck from the factory. However the ones bought out of scrap yards off of other trucks are many times a pain.Precision door fitting should be done long before painting the door. He says many times he has to spring the door to make it fit a cab that is 40 plus years old & maybe even twisted.It takes a lot of patience to do bodywork.I don't have it.That's why I stick to the mechanical aspect of restoration. Good luck with your door fitment. Have A Great Ford Day !

[Craigerf100]

Sounds like you are only on the 1st catch of the latch. They are 2 stage. My guess would be you are adjusting the wrong way. Moving in thinking that will pull the door in. You are probably too far in for the 2nd stage to catch. Try moving the post the latch catches onto outward.

also is anything aftermarket on your truck like the latch or catch? like if you were using an aftermarket catch or receiver (what ever you want to call it) it might be setting in your door too far forward.

could you post a pic of it?

heres a pic of mine, my doors fit snug.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

[jocoflyer]

I just adjsuted the post and that seems to have reduced the gap by about half. I can fit the tip of my finger in rather the most of my finger. There is still a slight gap and the doors seem to be under pressure when closed. By that I mean they really spring open when the outside button is pressed. As far as I know all doors and hardware are original. Could there be a malfunction with the door handle somehow? How would I know if I am at the first or second stage on the latch as elgemcdlf wrote?

[Craigerf100]

post some pics of it all

[jocoflyer]

Sounds like you are only on the 1st catch of the latch. They are 2 stage. My guess would be you are adjusting the wrong way. Moving in thinking that will pull the door in. You are probably too far in for the 2nd stage to catch. Try moving the post the latch catches onto outward.

Here are pictures after making the most adjustments I can. The pass. door is much better but still a gap, the drivers door gap is reduced but still there. From the inside the doors are mating with WS all around. Only a very small amount of day-light visible on drivers side. Could the latches be malfunctioning?

[elgemcdlf]

You should be able to loosen the post & move it outward. To check for how many times it has latched just shut it by pushing in the door slowly. You will hear the latch click when it latches on the 1st catch. Push further until it clicks again. Your door doesn't look like it has any adjustment but I could be wrong. You at least are getting a smaller gap so things are getting better. If you grab the head of the post with vice grips it should unscrew like a bolt. Just loosen it & tap it outward then tighten it down. Try the door. Repeat until happy.

[jocoflyer]

You should be able to loosen the post & move it outward. To check for how many times it has latched just shut it by pushing in the door slowly. You will hear the latch click when it latches on the 1st catch. Push further until it clicks again. Your door doesn't look like it has any adjustment but I could be wrong. You at least are getting a smaller gap so things are getting better. If you grab the head of the post with vice grips it should unscrew like a bolt. Just loosen it & tap it outward then tighten it down. Try the door. Repeat until happy.

Ok I just tried closing the doors gently for the 1st catch. The passenger door will grab the post (1st catch) if gently closed but it will not go any further. Even if I push in it really hard the door just bounces back at me ( still attached to the 1st catch) but will not fully grab the post. I have to fully open the door and close it pretty hard for it to close as tight as it will as shown in the pictures.
The drivers door will not grab the post at all if I try to gently close it, it hits the post and bounces back at me. I have to close it fairly hard for it to grab.
To reduce the gap on the pass. door I had to move the post out, to reduce the gap on the drivers door I had to move it in towards the seat.

[elgemcdlf]

Ok move the post out on the pass side. Sounds like you are almost there. Drivers door sounds like you also have an alignment problem. Ford doors usually close very well. It is GMs that require slamming the door. Move the post out on the drivers side as well. You need to get it working on both catches. Then move towards what it takes to make the door close well along with seal.

I would concentrate on 1 door until it was right. It will teach you much & the 2nd door should be a breeze after that.

[guhfluh]

I agree that it just sounds like the posts are too far in for the second latch to catch, but what does the front of the door look like when closed? I see that it looks like new paint. We're the doors removed or messed with during that process? If the front is closing too tight; I.E. the hinges were moved inward, it will pinch too hard in the front to allow the rear to fully close.

The door posts can be adjusted with a large 12pt socket or box end wrench. Vice grips or pliers should be a last resort.

[elgemcdlf]

I agree that it just sounds like the posts are too far in for the second latch to catch, but what does the front of the door look like when closed? I see that it looks like new paint. We're the doors removed or messed with during that process? If the front is closing too tight; I.E. the hinges were moved inward, it will pinch too hard in the front to allow the rear to fully close.

The door posts can be adjusted with a large 12pt socket or box end wrench. Vice grips or pliers should be a last resort.

2 hrs away from my truck. I thought the heads of the posts were round. Did not realize they are 12 pt.

[sargentrs]

Also sounds like that driver's striker may be a little low/high if it just bounces back. There's a "sweet spot" on the latch can that the striker needs to center on. Check the latch where the striker is hitting it, you should see a scrape.

[jocoflyer]

I agree that it just sounds like the posts are too far in for the second latch to catch, but what does the front of the door look like when closed? I see that it looks like new paint. We're the doors removed or messed with during that process? If the front is closing too tight; I.E. the hinges were moved inward, it will pinch too hard in the front to allow the rear to fully close.

The door posts can be adjusted with a large 12pt socket or box end wrench. Vice grips or pliers should be a last resort.

The painter says they didn't mess with the doors. As far as I remember the doors did this prior to painting. The wife says it started after the painting. So of course I smile and agree with her. From inside the cab it does appear that the front of the door may be pinching, but from the exterior the door is lining up nice and flush with the truck body. The pinching may be why the doors really 'pop open' when the button is pressed. What type of hinge adjustments are avail on these trucks?