Power Window Idea

[sargentrs]

So, I've got this '92 Toyota Camry. The driver rear power window quit working so I dove into it yesterday. After removing 6 nuts and 2 bolts I pulled the whole assembly out. While I was monkeying with it to figure out if I could fix it when I heard the hallelujah chorus and a light bulb went off in my head. At around $100 per set (aftermarket), I believe these will work in our trucks by only drilling a few holes and maybe adding a spacer or something. Any '92-'96 Camry has them and there's a ton of those in the salvage yards. There's a vertical rail it slides on, it's cable operated, and a small electric motor. The window is held by a channel that bolts to the assembly. If you remove the bump regulator and window crank handle, the hole in the door panel could accomodate the switch. What do you guys think? See any "gotchas"?

[cep62]

The only thing I would the of is the window height vs the regulator travel.
But that set up is common maybe a mini van with a tall window might work better.

[Whateverman]

i'm guessing that you'd bolt it too the existing channel on the bump window rather than dicking around trying to get that channel to work

it'd sure be nice if that did work

[rdaniel911]

Has anyone toyed with the idea of finding a way to mount a system like the one in the 04 and up F150, I just had to swap one out in my 04, and like the simple design, along with the way it grabs the window using the clamp method, you could do away with the whole part that the track is on, and simply clamp the bottom of the window in the track. The way the setup is designed, it seems easy to adapt, as long as the height is workable.

[sargentrs]

I measured the window opening on the Camry and with the window up it's 16-1/2" of glass rubber to rubber on the outside. My bump window opening is 17" metal to metal without the channels or anti-rattles in place. Looks pretty close. The Toyo mechanism has 3 threaded studs and the vertical slide mounts inside the door with studs sticking through the metal of the interior. Same with the motor. Probably have to drill those out so it can be mounted with bolts and nuts. I'm going to play with it while my door is bare, and on the bench, and see if it's feasible. Since it doesn't work anyway, the cable is broken, I pulled it out last week and it's in the workshop with the door.

[skblixt96]

Hey sargentrs, did you ever get the Camry lifts to work out?

[sargentrs]

I blew it off in favor of this installation http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... hp?t=72410 I have an extra set of regulators and the '87 F150 regs are just as cheap as the Toyota's. Plus, I know this work because I have a tutorial (Thanks, Phantom!)