Grey primer recommendation

[68FORDJBM]

Grandpa gave me a couple of his spray guns and I was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction for a decent source of gray primer - no more spray cans

[Bob]

Depends on what you're doing with it. There are different primers for different purposes. Sandable and non-sandable... some designed for heavy build up. Some for sealing. Also depends on what you're gonna dump onto it.

Make sure your wallet's fat when you go after it. The primers and thinners are very... very... expensive. If you've been buying buzz bombs you'll be shocked at what even a quart of primer goes for nowadays. Especially now that they want everyone to go to water based paints. The oil based stuff has gone up like crazy. You can still buy enough to restore two cars a year here in PA under what they call "the hobby clause." Problem is with the majority of large users of the stuff switching to water based it means smaller batches of the other produced and poof... the price has to climb.

Myself... I like PPG's DP 35 / DP 40 / DP 45 (the numbers are different colors and I don't recall which are which...) for a sealer primer. And I like PPG "Kondar" for my sandable primer. They have much newer flavors out there but when you figure how much mixed paint you get for your dollar it was the best deal back a few years ago or last time I bought the stuff. You get two gallons from a gallon of Kondar after mixing whereas some others are mixed 2:1 so you only get 1-1/2 gallons for bout the same $$ or more.

[sargentrs]

Eastwood has high quality coatings but they are pricey. For basic primer purposes, I got Summit Racing's http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-up220 , activator http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-up101 and reducer http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rll-248877 for thinning and absolutely necessary for clean up. For a high build top coat, I went with Eastwood's http://www.eastwood.com/featherfill-g2-gray-quart.html It comes with activator and used the Summit reducer for clean up. For a final sealer coat, I went with the people that are going to be supplying my color, Southern Polyurethane's white 2K sealer.

[68FORDJBM]

Thanks for the leads. I focused on sealing right now but I'll be looking at build up prior to paint but that isn't until next Summer (2014). I'm loking forward to the primer look for a while -not having to worry about scatches

[Randle]

It is hard to beat Summit Racing's prices and I hard just as soon us it as the big name brands.

[F100builder]

Check out Summit, Eastwood, and TCP Global. They have budget-minded material too...talk to them and tell them what you want to do. They can point you in the right direction. TCP has .pdf tech sheets on the site too.

[BobbyFord]

No primer seals, not even epoxy primer. If it's going to sit after you primer it then at least clear coat it so it seals. You can always sand the clear off later when you're ready for paint.

[68FORDJBM]

BoobyFord is right! I've already proved the point with my rear pannels The rust is forming and bleeding through on the seams. I'll re-grind prep, prime and this time seal.

Already purchased the summit product and looking forward to spraying on primer with my new/old gun. BTW the spray gun I'll be using is probably older than the truck I have one for primer and one for paint - Both Binks.

[F100builder]

BoobyFord...

[68FORDJBM]

Eastwood has high quality coatings but they are pricey. For basic primer purposes, I got Summit Racing's http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-up220 , activator http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-up101 and reducer http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rll-248877 for thinning and absolutely necessary for clean up. For a high build top coat, I went with Eastwood's http://www.eastwood.com/featherfill-g2-gray-quart.html It comes with activator and used the Summit reducer for clean up. For a final sealer coat, I went with the people that are going to be supplying my color, Southern Polyurethane's white 2K sealer.

Was getting ready to set up for priming the truck when I read that the Summit Surfacer shouldn't be used on bare metal. They say to use a metal conditioner or primer first for better adhesion. I don't have a lot of bare metal spots but want to do this right. Any reccomendations?

[sargentrs]

They do reference feathering in around bare metal places but if you're apprehensive switch to the http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-up230 which is recommended for bare metal or finished/semi finished surfaces. If you're going to be a while between primer and top coat you should seal it with something like a clear coat or some other type of sealer. Primer is very porous and it will start rusting back through pretty quickly. I had no issues with what I've done. Took it down to bare metal, sanded with 100 grit, sprayed a coat of the 2K urethane primer, sanded with 150 grit, sprayed another coat, sanded with 250 grit, sprayed the Eastwood high build primer, sanded with 400 grit and then sprayed 2 coats of the Southern Polyurethane 2K white epoxy sealer. The finish is smooth and rock hard. I went up and sat with the guys at Southern Polyurethanes for an hour. I'll be using their coating for my final color so I wanted their recommendation. I let them know that I was going to primer and seal and it would be close to a year before I'd be top coating color. They recommended that white sealer. That was 6-8 months ago and still shows no sign of bleed through rust. Hopefully I'll be spraying color next month. I also trust BobbyFord's recommendations. I just met with those other guys first.

[68FORDJBM]

Thanks!

[sargentrs]

P.S. Don't forget the metal prep/conditioner. I use PrepAll from my local Sherwin Williams Automotive finishes store. Keep us posted on how it goes.

[elgemcdlf]

I spent 2 yrs in body shop class with an old teacher. He remembered when plastic filler was first introduced. He said never use grey primer. Paint does not stick to it. As I have watched cars that have the paint peeling off they all have grey primer underneath. Harry is long gone now but his words have stuck with me. All he said has proven true as I watch things around me.

[cep62]

He said never use grey primer. Paint does not stick to it. As I have watched cars that have the paint peeling off they all have grey primer

That used to be the case but not so much any more.
The main reason for that theory is with the older paints .You would user grey primer under light colors like silver and gold metallic , those colors didn't have as many solids to hold them together so they could prematurely fail.

Then in the late 80s and early 90s the domestic auto makers were experimenting with primers and paints, after time the paint would blow off and leave the grey primer intact.
(my 93 F150 still suffers with this) It seemed like the primer was too hard / smooth and the paint didn't stick.
For a short time the companies were paying to strip and paint a lot of vehicles.

The newer paints have better pigments and binders so they'll hold up a lot longer.

I don't have a lot of bare metal spots but want to do this right. Any reccomendations?

For small spots of bare steel . there are aerosol cans of self etching primers that will help against corrosion.