Any cab mount bushing swap tips?

[69timemachine]

My body lines on the bump are a little out of whack, and since I hope to one day upgrade to a TKO-600 transmission and will need to maximize floorboard clearance, I'm going to install new cab mount bushings. I ordered the 12-piece poly bushing kit, and since my truck has been garaged for most of its existence, I think my bolts and washers should be reusable. I found several topics on the subject, but still have a question. Do I need to disconnect anything like the steering ragjoint or clutch rod when swapping the cab bushings? I know not to jack the cab up but just enough to slide the old ones out and the new ones in, but any special procedures I should know about? Thanks!

[Whateverman]

i'd unbolt the ragjoint and pop the clutch linkage off as well just to be sure,i ripped a ragjoint by jacking the cab up to do a quick and nasty cabmount replace once ... .... at the least i'd unbolt the clamp and plate on the firewall holding the steering column (and either loosen or remove the bolts holding the column to the dash)

also: the old bushings can be a real P.I.T.A. to remove sometimes- especially the rear ones for whatever reason,you'd think that since they're pretty much protected from the elements they'd co-operate and leave peacefully,but they never have for me - goodluck!

[69timemachine]

Yes, that's what I was thinking, that all the solid-mount components should be disconnected. The brake lines and radiator hoses should flex enough. I suppose I better watch the fan shroud too!

[sargentrs]

Do you still have the front clip on? Lifting the cab more than a half inch or so might put stress on the fenders being bolted to the cab and the radiator support? Probably enough flex in the rad support bushings not to make a difference. Just thinking out loud. Only other thing I can think of would be the speedometer cable and the fuel line if you have an in cab tank. E brake cable's probably got enough slack in it.

[69timemachine]

The truck is still 100% assembled and drivable. My basic plan is to:
1. Disconnect anything that would bind
2. Remove the LH core support bolt and LH F/R cab mount bolts
3. Use a couple floor jacks to raise the driver's side of the cab/core support/fenders assembly slightly
4. Swap in the new bushings for the old
5. Set the assembly down and replace the LH side bolts
6. Repeat steps 2, 3, 4, & 5 on the RH side
7. Tighten all the bolts down and reconnect everything

Think there's anything I'm overlooking in this plan?

[sargentrs]

Nope. Sounds like a winner. Good luck and keep us posted.