1967 f100 engine removal procedure questions

[bluef250]

I recommend not removing anything more than you have to. If you have other reasons for removing the front sheet metal then so should. Really the only thing you need to remove is the hood. Mark the hood location for realignment I have drilled small holes though the support and hinge for a punch to help realign the hood.

The realignment of fenders depends on your patience and skill.

[Brian339]

I have some patience but no claim to skill. I have never done it before. SobI am reluctant to proceed. Id I spent a month with a pro as an apprentice I have no doubt I could acquire the skill. Trying to train myself would be arduous and the results most likely would reflect it.

[68 Ford Stepside]

Brian: You said the engine would be out by last Saturday. What shook your confidence? I have faith in your ability to start & complete the assigned task at hand. We all had to start somewhere. What ever you decide, good fortune to you. Have A Great Ford Day!

[Brian339]

I have a good explaination for not pulling it last Saturday!
My neighbors son is going to loan me an engine hoist. I was going to buy one but I cheaped out. I did unbolt, take reference pictures, bag and used my favorite black sharpie to identify whats in each bag. That engine is ready to come out. Not sure if I mentioned it but this truck is not registered and will not be registered for the road till May 2013. I am hoping by then it will be done to my satisfaction.

[aearch]

all he above
but when you put it back leave everything off as shown
unless you set it exactly level you will need to adda weight to the
front of the block to get it level then---
set it close and make sure you slide the throwout bearing on first
from the bottom and wire it so it wont come back off
it has to slide on just right or it binds.
then leave the trans in neutral give it a slight push and
get a longer bolt to grab the block thru the trans on one bolt
you should havea small jack to support the trans but not critical.
the motor mounts must be off to get it in straight
then slowly tighen up the trans with the four bolts
i use a long tapered punch to align the holes
bolt it down the lift fotr the mounts
done
ok

[aearch]

part two install

[9t3svt]

You can also use a pencil or marker to trace around the hood hinges. I generally save the radiator till I'm done underneath, just in case there is a spill. These are about the easiest vehicles to work on, swapped a 300 in my 68 when I was 13. Only mistake I made was not labeling the wire connections. Had the coil wire and one of the sender wires switched . Don't unhook alternator wiring, remove from bracket and set on inner fender.

[Thatrustedoutf250]

Hi, I’m new to the site. I have a few questions about pulling a 360fe out of my 1970 f250. I couldn’t figure out how to post a new topic. Apparently I’m not too smart. The truck has 556,000 miles on it. It leaks oil but it burns a lot so I figured it’s time to give the ole girl a refresh. The truck runs and drives. It’s honeslty a parts truck that runs but I love her. Just hoping someone can steer me in the right direction. Thanks

[colnago]

When I pulled my engine/tranny (attached, pulled as a unit), I removed the entire front clip: hood, radiator, fenders, everything. I bought a 2-ton hoist from Harbor Freight for under $200. Worth every penny. I figured that one trip to the hospital would cost more, so it was an easy purchase. With the front clip removed, you have better access to everything. I ended up painting the inner fenders while I had it all apart.

Just work slowly, and take lots of pics and notes. You'll need them during the reinstall.

By the way, on the left side of the main page for the Engine forum, there's a button labeled "New Topic." Click on that, and it will bring you to a page that allows you to put in a new title and text.

Joseph

[Ranchero50]

Ditto, other than the fender bolts in the door hinge pockets removing the front clip is pretty painless.

Setting one 90lb head over the fender is enough to blow your back out and not work it IMHO.

[cep62]

Seeing as your handle is [quote="Thatrustedoutf250"quote]

I would suggest leaving the front clip intact and just remove the hood and radiator.

(no offence to the people in less rust prone areas )

[cep62]

Setting one 90lb head over the fender is enough to blow your back out and not work it IMHO.

That seems like too much work , and too much chance for failure.

[Ranchero50]

I absolutely hate the idea of picking up 1200 lbs of engine and trans mission high enough to clear the radiator support, especially with a engine crane. The risk just isn't worth the reward, especially when it's hard to find parts anymore. Load is too high, base is too small.

I don't like doing it on a car and won't do it on a truck. I don't like using the boom crane on a tow truck either but will. When I pull the Cummins out again it'll be with the tow truck with the front clip removed.

[cep62]

I absolutely hate the idea of picking up 1200 lbs of engine and trans mission high enough to clear the radiator support, especially with a engine crane. The risk just isn't worth the reward, especially when it's hard to find parts anymore. Load is too high, base is too small.

I agree 100%

I'm talking about pulling just the engine.

I'm not sure of the rust issue in your area but in Michigan it can be a chore R&R ing a rusty clip. With the front support bolts and cab mounts settling .
If you're planning on doing other work also it does make it a lot easier .
But just to swap engines it seems (to me ) like a lot more work.

[emeraldcoupe]

I just pulled the 360 and c6 from my 71 as one, all I removed was the hood. just go slow and you'll be fine.

for a few extra inches of clearance, let the air out of the front tires.