In light of recent events (see my other thread) I am going to pull my engins. This will give me a chance to accomplish several thing.
1. I want to solve my oil issue and I can pull the pan with the engine in place.
2. I want to paint the engine and engine bay .
3. I will upgrade the ignition and possible the steering components.
I have never pulled an engine myself but this looks simple.
What do I need to know? I have a 3 speed FYI
Thanks for any help your willing to give. In return I promise lots of pictures.
Brian: I'll start you off, but i won't go through the whole process at this time.
#1 - Drain the coolant into some type of container.
#2 - Remove the radiator & hoses, disconnect the heater hoses
#3 - Drain the engine oil. #4 - Disconnect the battery & disconnect all wiring connected to the engine.
#5 - Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump coming from the fuel tank.
#6 - Disconnect the throttle from the carb. Remove the air cleaner.
#7 - Unbolt the motor mounts from the cross member
#8 - Disconnect the clutch linkage.
#9 - Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold
That should get you started. Later i'll give you an option of pulling trans with engine or engine alone.
Thank you sir. You have been a big help. I am up to speed on these steps. I will pick away at them over the next couple of days. I intend to have the engine out Saturday.
I prefer to leave the tranny in place. Looks like it bolts up...
Engine will be out for a few weeks while I detail and paint.
#10 - Remove the starter.
#11 - Remove all of the bell housing bolts.
Unless you are inside a building or shed, leave the hood on until you are ready to pull the engine.
Rent an engine lift crane if you don't have one. I wouldn't recommend a tree limb, although I have used one years ago. LOL
Remove the valve cover & remove one head bolt in the front & one near the rear & attach a good heavy duty chain between the two with about six inches or so of slack. Near the center of the chain double it & insert a grade 8 bolt through it to make an eye for your lifting crane hook to fit in. Now you're getting ready to lift that bad boy.
Im looking forward to it. I need to come up with a cool color scheme. Make all this fun work worth my while. Ford blue isnt it for me. Black and red has always been a favorite.
Thank you again for helping me out. I will in return post some pictures!
Brian: Lets talk about safety before we go any further-
Make sure the truck wheels are chocked.
If possible have a buddy or two there to help you. Even if they don't do anything, they will be there to call the ambulance should something happen.(ie) do not get under the engine at any time while removing.
Lot's of sharp items in an engine bay, take your time.
I'll finish up the final instructions tomorrow. Have A Great Ford Day!
Also, have a fire extinguisher handy. Don't try to do the work by yourself, have a buddy help. Don't put your hands or another parts of your body feet, arms, etc. in a place that they could get pinched.
Ok Brian: I'm not feeling that great, but i will finish the removal this morning before i hit the road.
#1- Remove the throttle assembly from the intake manifold.
#2- Place a 3/4" thick board between the trans & crossmember.
#3- Remove the hood.
#4- Hook your engine crane hook to the lifting chain.
#5- Jack the lifting crane up until you have tension on the chain.
#6- Slowly jack up the engine just enough for the motor mount bolts to clear, about an inch clearance.
#7- Pull the engine toward the front of the truck out of the bell housing.
Your engine is longer than a v/8, so ease it forward & up until you have cleared everything.Jack it on up & either pull the engine & lifting crane back or push the truck back away from it.
Was glad to help you out, good fortune to you & always "Have A Great Ford Day!
Why not try to figure out what's wrong with the oil system first?
With the valve cover off, do what Bobbyford said and pull the distributor and prime the oil pump with an electric drill and see if you are getting oil to the top end. Don't assume anything, test it before taking it apart so you have some idea what to work on.
I intend to find out whats wrong with the oil system for sure. My money is also on the clogged oil screen. I cant get the oil pan off without pulling the engine. As I mentioned before I want to detail the engine compartment and paint everything. This just gives me more reason to proceed.
My truck is not even registered for the road. I enjoy working on it and the simple mechanics really make it enjoyable!
Thank you for your advice.
Brian where abouts in Massachusetts do you live? I live in Fairhaven, MA and I own a 1972 Ford F250 4x4 with a 360 engine and 4sp transmission. Good luck with your engine removal.
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Brian339 wrote:Im looking forward to it. I need to come up with a cool color scheme. Make all this fun work worth my while. Ford blue isnt it for me. Black and red has always been a favorite.
Thank you again for helping me out. I will in return post some pictures!
Please tell me you are not planning on painting a Ford engine Red. That has to be against the law or something.
Anyway, I'm in the same boat you are in (except I'm pulling my 360 V8 and installing a 460) I'm also planning on painting the engine bay and new motor. I found that it is much easier to remove the engine with the front clip removed as well (grille, radiator support, fenders etc...) I've only done this because I'm doing all of this in my garage and the ceiling is not that high. Plus it makes it easier to get a good paint job on the inner fenders, firewall, and frame.
I would love to remove the fron clip. In fact Im thinking about it. Im just concerned about re-fittment. Will everything bolt back up properly or will I end up with sloppy lined. The are nice now. I need to get a closer look.
I recommend not removing anything more than you have to. If you have other reasons for removing the front sheet metal then so should. Really the only thing you need to remove is the hood. Mark the hood location for realignment I have drilled small holes though the support and hinge for a punch to help realign the hood.
The realignment of fenders depends on your patience and skill.