72 F250 4x4 Custom

[sillbeer]

I suppose I'll start a build thread. I bought the truck about 3 months ago from a local guy. The truck had been sitting for the past 6 years due to a bad oil pump which seized the engine. The body is very straight and it doesn't have cancer around the wheel wells like most Utah trucks. The cab corners are pretty good also, just a small bit on the passenger side cab corner. Floor boards are rotted out but that's easy enough to fix. It has the stock tank behind the seat and the saddle tanks in each wheel well. I'm going to pull the saddle tanks out and just run the tank behind the seat.

This is it the day I got it.


I took the bumper, grill, and passenger fender off a couple weeks ago. This morning I pulled the passenger inner fender and it was a bit of a pain. One bolt came out like it was suppose to, one snapped off, and one bolt started spinning. I just cut it off and pulled the fender out.


Cleaned up a little. Whoever said drilling out spot welds is fun was on crack. I'll be looking for one of these if anyone feels froggy.




I have a 360 I pulled from a running truck last weekend I'll drag into the garage and clean up during the week. Supposedly it only has 6000 miles on it.

-Destin

[sillbeer]

Jamie,

I do agree that getting a new cab would be the best route but It's not feasible for me right now. I don't have the room or the time to dig into it that deep right now. I sold my bike in the pic up top to fund a few things on the truck and finish up some projects around the house. We're having our first kid in about 2 months so I need to get the truck out of the garage.


-Destin

[averagef250]

I would try to limp that cab along until you find a nice cab to switch it out for. That's serious bad cancer. Once rust is in the seams like that there's no reversing it.

[Ranchero50]

Yep, that's why it's such a good candidate for a cab swap... Don't waste the time or money, even if the time is free, on something that's going to pop back out in a year or two...

Jamie

[hivewax]

Anything can be saved... just make sure you get all the rust out. Here is a rust bucket project - http://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.p ... 00+mustang

[Jtorres]

Nice truck and good luck on the restore. Check out my rebuild thread for your POR 15 question...

[sillbeer]

No pictures today but I did make a little progress. Two weeks ago I busted a bolt off in the engine bay firewall. I thought an easy out would be the perfect tool to remove the rusted in bolt. I went and bought a set of easy outs only to find out they aren't for rusted in bolts. I promptly broke the easy out off inside the bolt. Great. Did a couple internet searches and nobody really had any good fixes for it. I tried drilling through it and around it with no luck. I was getting a little peeved and left it for a few days. I remembered I had some carbide bits that I bought from Summit a few years back and never really used.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900240/?rtype=10

These are the bits I have. I bought the ferrous and non ferrous bits for porting a few years ago. Anyways I used one for about 15 seconds and it ate right through the easy out like butter.

I picked up a newer radiator support and I bought new radiator mounts. The old radiator support didn't want to come out. I used the engine hoist and was lifting up the front end of the truck. I then used a large punch and a 4 lb sledge to beat the bolt through the frame and it finally came loose after about 5 minutes of pounding.

I also have a new cowl piece for the passenger side that I bought from this outfit.

http://www.flashbackf100s.com/

This fella was very helpful. I also bought new rear cab cross member pieces for the left and right side.

I'll post some pics in the next couple of days.

-Destin

[sillbeer]

Got my engine parts back from the sand blaster. I was planning on spraying por 15 onto them. Has anyone sparyed por 15? I have a new gun set and have never painted before. This will be a learning experience. It is recommended that if you spray it you should reduce it by 5%. The por 15 website says you should use their product to reduce it. I'm assuming I can get a reducer from the local parts store that is just as good. Also what side nozzle should I use? The gun set I bought came with 1.1, 1.5, and a 1.8. I'm guessing the 1.8 but not sure.

Thanks,

-Destin

[hivewax]

I've never heard or seen anyone use POR15 on engine parts. I would use high temperature paint.

[sillbeer]

It's a por 15 rated for high temp engine parts. It came in Ford blue.

Thanks,

-Destin

[sillbeer]

[hazelnut]

I remember somone on here sprayed POR 15 and said it wasnt fun cleaning up the gun after spraying it because what ever it gets on it dont want to come off. Me personally i would use there reducer, I worked at a body shop when i was young and the owner would mix paints and not have the right stuff in stock and use something 1-2 digets off. The paint never turned out right and after about the 10th time of me haveing to work my butt off to redo a car i quit. Useing anything but POR reducer might work, but what if it dosent.

[sillbeer]

I didn't think about the clean up. I did read that it is nearly impossible to get off your skin if it dries. I may just pick up a medium grade brush at Lowes tomorrow and go with that.

Thanks,

-Destin

[1970FordTK]

I can tell you from personel experence that you can spray POR15, however it is best to follow the directions they give to the letter if you want a show quailty product in the end. Clean up of the gun isn't that bad if you do it before it dries, once that stuff dries clean up on anything is a bear. I've had very good aplication with foam brushes on rough and smooth surfaces with POR15. I POR15 my truck from front to back, everything but the trim work got a coat front and back. I found out the hard way that you need to follow what they say to do to the letter on the instructions. If you do you will be very happy at the results, I know I was. Best results I got spraying was with my 1.8 and setting it like I was spraying a candy paint, you need to make dang sure you have a very even pattern with it or you will be sanding like a mofo after it dries. Hope this helps.

[sillbeer]

Thanks. Thats exactly what I was looking for. I ended up buying a couple of foam brushes and put a coat on. I won't have time tomorrow but I'll get another coat on Saturday. The ford med blue isn't what I was thinking. It's a darker blue but I still like it. I painted the oil pan, intake manifold, tranny bell housing, and valve covers.

-Destin