Help me plan my brake system

[marvin2]

Please offer me some feedback...

I'm starting to think ahead to my brake system. I don't have the parts yet, but just for this exercise lets say I am planning on using an '04 Mercury Marquis front suspension with disc brakes and an '01 Ford Explorer rear with disc brakes. I have no idea, but would assume that the front and rear disc brakes are different.

My truck was originally setup with manual drum brakes. I am planning not planning on re-using any of the old lines, valves, or master cylinder. I figured on buying a coil of ss brake lines ($100) and bending them myself rather than buying the prebent lines from LMC ($230). Not sure if I will fuss with a hydroboost setup yet, or if I will get a booster/ master setup for a 70 f100.

That is the basic plan. I have a several questions / concerns:
1) Does this plan even sound feasible, or am I setting myself up for a system nightmare?
2) Since the truck will be all disc brakes, will the original stock proportioning valve work, should I try to grab the PV from the Mercury, or should I by an aftermarket PV?
3) Can I run my lines similar to how they were done originally, or do they have to be exactly as they were done from the factory?

Thanks in advance, guys!

[390Nut]

Anything done while modding a vehicle is as feasible as you want it to be. That said, your skill at bending lines and making flares on those lines will determine how feasible it is, as well as any other fabrication skills necessary to making the front and rear suspensions fit your truck (cutting/grinding/welding etc).

As for the PV, you will want to go with an aftermarket one that it is completely adjustable. the front and rears you are talking about are from two different systems, neither of which is close to the drum brakes you have on your truck now. Being able to get your brakes JUST RIGHT goes a long way towards making the truck go where it is supposed to when braking (straight forward), and stop when it is supposed to. Mis-adjusted brakes can have you locked up and skidding, or worse yet, swapping ends, in a hurry (which is a bad thing!).

you should be able to run the lines similar to what you had before, however, having ALL of the suspension work done ahead of time, as well as booster and master cylinder installed, will alleviate any issues with pre-planning where you will run the lines. Only reason you would need the lines as original as possible is to do a concours resto, which you are not doing. Keep in mind suspension travel, flex points, mounting points, etc when planning the routing.

[averagef250]

You'll need to do the math to figure out what master cylinder will work or run a two master system for optimum tuning. Adjustable proportioning valve doesn't really do much. Just a bandaid to get a messed up brake system to somewhat function.

If you really get into this brake system stuff you'll find most automotive businesses making money selling this type of stuff have absolutely no clue what it is they're selling. Disc brake kits, hydroboost stuff, adjustable proportioning valves- Most of this stuff is not right for what they're selling it for. It works well enough for most people buying it to not complain, but it isn't right.

Stainless is a royal PITA. I use lots of stainless lines with compression fittings and single flares, but brakes are double flare. Really difficult to doubleflare stainless without very expensive tooling. The prebent stainless lines for automotive restoration are inferior quality than OEM stuff, they are not made very well nor are they good materials.

[marvin2]

Thank you guys for the input. I guess I am asking some pretty broad questions and need to narrow down my approach in order to make some decisions.

[fordman]

i think it is npd which has a brake chart on their catalog. it has bore sizes of wheel cylinders and bore sizes of master cylinders. i think they may show what years and application they are for too. so that way a match for bore sizes can be made. if their chart isn't correct. what you can do is to ask the auto parts store for a replace caliper for the application you are calculating. such as the rear caliper and then ask about the front caliper. when they find the part as them the bore size the replacement part has.

then you take those bore sizes and figure it out by truck weight and engine size. how much pressure the master will need to push those caliper bore sizes to make the brakes work properly. and then you can buy your master cylinder. the adjustable proportioning valves are only for fine tuning the fluid flow to the calipers or wheel cylinders.
how to calculate all o fthat i dont know. there has to be some charts somewhere that will help do that. maybe the charts on npd. i dont know. or other charts on the internet. or maybe call wagner manufacturing. or other master cylinder manufacturing places they may be able to help.