stuck bleeders

[tanusfarms]

How do I bleed the front disc brakes on my f250 if I can't get the bleeders to turn at all?

[cep62]

If you have a air hammer you can hammer AROUND the bleeder and use a penetrating lube,
sometimes that will shake them loose.
Also there is an adapter to put a socket on a air hammer ,
turn the adapter with a wrench while hammering and it can loosen the bleeder.

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

6 point socket and a long breaker bar, if it snaps off you either drill it out or replace the caliper

[cep62]

if it snaps off you either drill it out or replace the caliper

Or drill it out, and then replace the caliper.

[fordman]

get new cylinders.

[dieselbronco]

Not the best idea but has worked for me in the woods. Bleed it through the line not perfect but it has got me home

[BlueOvalDave]

Hitting them with a hammer has never failed me, then a six point socket.

Works every time, if you cant get a direct hit due to space constraints put a piece of solid 1/2 inch bar, old extension etc and hit that.

If you close the hole up you can drill it out or replace the bleeder.

[fitzwell]

Penetrating oil, and try to slightly tighten first.

[tanusfarms]

I picked up some new bleeders at autozone just in case. Resprayed the old one with parts blaster. Then ran out of time. I won't be able to get back out there for about a week. Once I do get to it I'll let you all know how it went.

[bindernut]

Parts blaster? same as PB blaster? If it's PB blaster, letting that thing set for a week is a good thing, I am sold on that stuff. Soak it good, then use your wrench as a knocker wrench, take a ballpeen hammer and tap the wrench tight first, then tap it loose, if you get even the slightest of movement, you're on the home stretch, be patient and go back and forth like that and you should get more and more movement. it may take some time, but it's less time than drilling and tapping.

we beat on four 30 yr old nut's once, these nut's took a 4-1/2" socket and torching them off wasn't an option, we tried a hytorq and put 20k ft lbs trying to loosen them, nothing. then we spent two 12hr shifts heating & beating these things with a 20lb sledge and a knocker wrench, back and forth, back and forth. 2 guys per bolt taking turns, we whipped on those things till I thought I'd throw up. Finally they budged ever so slightly ....after that we put the hytorq back on and had them off in 15mins. once they move even the slightest, you've won.

[tanusfarms]

yes it was pb blaster. I was able to get all 4 bleeders unstuck! thanks for the help!

The only thing I have left is to install my proportioning valve. I tried to remove the old distribution block tonight but was unable to bust the brake lines loose from the block. any one have any suggestions here?

If I just cut the lines is it hard to reflare the lines?

[fordman]

cutting the brake lines is the last thing i would do. those lines are always stuck. using the proper line wrench on eth enuts is the first thing i do. when the line wrench ends up slipping i then just mnove strait to vise grips. i have a small pair that i put on the nut. i then smack the vise grip handle to make the nut turn. once the line wrench has slipped on th enut the vise grips are about all that ever works. because all other wrenches will just slip too. the use of vise grips is a last measure. no i have done this to trucks i have stripped down and not reused the lines. so my suggestion is to get new lines instead of cutting them if the nuts are stripped out from a slipping wrench.

[BlueOvalDave]

If you do cut them make sure you double flare the lines.

[onetuford]

I picked up a double flaring tool for about 20 dollars. Its a breeze to do it, just follow the tech article written by Keith.

http://fordification.com/tech/doubleflare.htm

[tanusfarms]

I was able to get all of the lines off with the vise grips. I did end up buying 1 new line and needed to double flare the end after trimming it. Worked like a charm thanks again for everyones help.