Chassis rust
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Chassis rust
I have a fifth wheel trailer that has a problem with rust on the axles and frame. My son told me that some of use have had success with stoping rust with POR-15. Can I just brush it on or do I need to apply some type of prep. Do I need to paint over it?
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and to the site.
Hang in there. The folks that are restoring the Fords will have your answer for the steps that are needed in applying rust converters and what is needed.
Hang in there. The folks that are restoring the Fords will have your answer for the steps that are needed in applying rust converters and what is needed.
Greg
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
1980 Built Toyota "Trail Rig".
My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
1980 Built Toyota "Trail Rig".
My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
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re: Chassis rust
POR-15 will work great for what you have in mind, as long as you properly prep the surface. It actually adheres better to rust than clean metal, since it has a chemical reaction with the rust and 'fuses' itself on. (In fact POR-15 stands for Paint Over Rust.)
Go to http://www.por-15.com for your products. I'd imagine a quart will be plenty for what you're doing. However, I'd suggest also picking up a quart of MarineClean (for degreasing) and a quart of MetalReady, which gives the surface a slight etch, allowing for better adhesion.
POR-15 is extremely durable and long-lasting, but surface preparations are critical. You'll need to thoroughly degrease the areas you want to paint, as well as ensuring there's no grease, brake fluid, etc. I'd suggest hitting the trailer with a good high-pressure spray, and then you might want to spend a little time with a Scotchbrite pad cleaning those axles and making sure that all loose material is removed, plus the Scotchbrite pad will help to scratch the surface a bit allowing for better adhesion. Then spray the MarineClean on, set it set for a while (or use the Scotchbrite pad for stubborn areas), rinse it off and allow to dry, then spray on the MetalReady. Let that set for a while and allow to completely dry, and then you're ready to apply the POR-15.
You can brush the stuff on or spray it, but brushing is easiest. There might be some very slight brush strokes in the finished surface. If you prefer it totally smooth you can thin it a little bit. However, I wouldn't imagine that a few minor brush strokes are going to concern you.
POR-15 is sensitive to ultraviolet light, so when exposed to sunlight it'll take on a chalky appearance. It's protective qualities aren't compromised, it just doesn't look as good. However, if you wait until the POR-15 is very tacky, you can topcoat it with rattlecan paint if appearance is important. Since your axles will be under the trailer, they won't be exposed to much direct sunlight, so it's original appearance might last a little longer, but I'd still suggest picking up a few cans of Rustoleum and using that as a topcoat.
Good luck!
Go to http://www.por-15.com for your products. I'd imagine a quart will be plenty for what you're doing. However, I'd suggest also picking up a quart of MarineClean (for degreasing) and a quart of MetalReady, which gives the surface a slight etch, allowing for better adhesion.
POR-15 is extremely durable and long-lasting, but surface preparations are critical. You'll need to thoroughly degrease the areas you want to paint, as well as ensuring there's no grease, brake fluid, etc. I'd suggest hitting the trailer with a good high-pressure spray, and then you might want to spend a little time with a Scotchbrite pad cleaning those axles and making sure that all loose material is removed, plus the Scotchbrite pad will help to scratch the surface a bit allowing for better adhesion. Then spray the MarineClean on, set it set for a while (or use the Scotchbrite pad for stubborn areas), rinse it off and allow to dry, then spray on the MetalReady. Let that set for a while and allow to completely dry, and then you're ready to apply the POR-15.
You can brush the stuff on or spray it, but brushing is easiest. There might be some very slight brush strokes in the finished surface. If you prefer it totally smooth you can thin it a little bit. However, I wouldn't imagine that a few minor brush strokes are going to concern you.
POR-15 is sensitive to ultraviolet light, so when exposed to sunlight it'll take on a chalky appearance. It's protective qualities aren't compromised, it just doesn't look as good. However, if you wait until the POR-15 is very tacky, you can topcoat it with rattlecan paint if appearance is important. Since your axles will be under the trailer, they won't be exposed to much direct sunlight, so it's original appearance might last a little longer, but I'd still suggest picking up a few cans of Rustoleum and using that as a topcoat.
Good luck!
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!