Brake Lines for a 71 F-250 2WD Disc

[grantorinosport]

I am in need of a brake line set (mostly just the front) for my 71 F-250 2WD/disc.

I have checked InLineTube.com (who I have ordered from before and have liked their products), but they don't list brake lines for a F-250.

I did some searching here and it seems like a 73 might work, as might a 76 set?

I figured the 71 F-100 2WD set would probably work just fine??? Frankly I have no idea.

Has anyone tackled this before? What did you use from inlinetube?

[tybob81]

Check www.broncograveyard.com

[70_F100]

Robroy bought a set for his 72 F250 2WD truck (with discs) from Inline Tube, IIRC.

Maybe he will see this post and provide some more detail.

[robroy]

Good evening Scott and 70_F100!

70_F100, thanks for mentioning my project, and you're right! My lines did come from Inline Tube, although they weren't available pre-made.

So Scott, here's the short story: I mailed my existing front disc brake lines to Inline, and they made new ones for me based on those.

And here's the long story:

Ten years ago I had a 1968 F100 4x2 long-bed project, and I ordered the stainless Inline Tube kit for that truck. Then my interests changed and I sold the truck, but I kept the kit. The kit quietly collected dust in my father Hugh's pantry as the years rolled by.

In July 2008 I began playing with #50 (my current Bumpside). #50's a 1972, 8,100lb GVW F250 4x2 with factory discs. I decided to go "all out" on its brakes, which meant new brake lines, among other things.

Since I already had this 1968 F100 kit on my hands, I began comparing its pieces to #50's, and found that many of them would work! A few worked with zero modifications, some had to be re-bent slightly, some had to be shortened and re-flared, and some just wouldn't work at all--including, unfortunately, the front disc brake lines.

I spoke with Inline Tube and heard that if I were to send them my original lines, they'd use them as a model to make new ones, and for basically the same price as those parts from their pre-made kits. What a deal! I also heard that since it's really expensive to mail big awkward things, I could slice them in half to fit in a smaller box, as long as I:

1. Cut the lines as cleanly as possible.
2. Made my cuts at a 45 degree angle to the line.

Point B was especially important because the angled cut allowed them to tape the line back together in their shop (with some confidence that half of the line hadn't been rotated to an incorrect angle).

I sawed the two longest lines in half (I sent them a long fuel line at the same time) at the [censored] sink, which Kasie really liked a lot, then had them shipped. The shipping turned out to be pretty expensive, but you could probably do it for less without the bulky fuel line in the equation.

In one or two weeks I received the new lines from Inline, and they were an amazingly close match to the originals I sent! They even used the same protective coverings as the originals, in just the same places--I hadn't expected them to do such precise reproductions!

Now it's picture time!

I used the master cylinder lines from the 1968 F100 kit, and they were surprisingly close to the originals! I may have had to shorten one or both of them and put new ends on, but I really can't remember now (sorry).



Here's the line that goes from the factory proportioning valve (located on the backside of the under-engine crossmember) to the LH brake hose. They put the metal spiral covering in precisely the same place that Ford did, and the results clearly look fantastic.




Here's the stainless fuel line they made.




The line that goes from the proportioning valve to the LH hose:



Note the protective fabric cover they put on the brake line that goes under the steering gear--exactly like the original! That's one of the 1968 F100 kit pieces that I needed to modify--you can see that the curve leading to the proportioning valve isn't quite as smooth as the curves made by Inline'!



This thread details the technique I used to shorten and re-flare the lines (most of the action's on page two).

Should I replace this dented stainless brake line?

Scott, let me know if I can dig up more specific information on any part of this! For some reason, I didn't document this particular phase of #50's renewal as well as some of the other phases, but I'm happy to do detective work if it'll help you out.

Robroy

[grantorinosport]

Robroy,

Thanks for the great information. I must say great job on your work (and your inline repair of the front brake line).

I notice in the photos the front brake distribution block (or is it also called a proportioning valve?) looked new. Did you obtain one new?

Your lines on your 72 are different in the front. The primary difference being that the brake lines as they come up in the wheel well go to a high point and the connect (after a droop) into the flex line. Mine on the 71 terminate about half-way up that final run (and then into the flex line). Yours is probably a better set up (it makes more sense), but your calipers are also different - mine have a traditional (like a mid size ford car) screw in connection from flex line to caliper, where as your calipers have the banjo fitting. I should have taken a photo yesterday when I had the wheel off.

I called InLineTube and they don't list 71 F250 2WD for sure, however I think I may just get the 71 F100 2WD disc kit and modify as needed. It's gotta be close (it is listed as an 8 pc set, which means the routing must be similar).

[robroy]

Good evening Scott!

Thanks for the great information. I must say great job on your work (and your inline repair of the front brake line).

You're most welcome Scott, and thanks!

I notice in the photos the front brake distribution block (or is it also called a proportioning valve?) looked new. Did you obtain one new?

The gadget shown in the lower-right of this photo is the proportioning valve, which is supposed to increase the brake fluid pressure for the front discs (to keep the rear brakes from locking up as easily). This topic seems to be a perpetually mysterious one (there have been many threads discussing it).

The distribution block term, as far as Bumpsides are concerned, is used to refer to the larger gadget that's located right behind the steering box. On Bumpsides the distribution block's also where the brake pressure differential valve and warning light switch are located.

As I understand it, should one of the brake circuits loose pressure, the valve's supposed to cut off the circuit, forcing all the pressure towards the intact circuit. It's probably set up to differentiate between front and rear circuit pressures, although I'm not certain of that. And at the moment this happens, the built-in electrical switch is triggered, which lights the on-dash brake warning light.

I can see why you'd ask if I'd found a new proportioning valve--it really does look new in that photo! It's the original 1972 valve though. I removed it from the frame and cleaned it up pretty thoroughly. As far as I know, those valves aren't reproduced.

Your lines on your 72 are different in the front. The primary difference being that the brake lines as they come up in the wheel well go to a high point and the connect (after a droop) into the flex line. Mine on the 71 terminate about half-way up that final run (and then into the flex line). Yours is probably a better set up (it makes more sense), but your calipers are also different - mine have a traditional (like a mid size ford car) screw in connection from flex line to caliper, where as your calipers have the banjo fitting. I should have taken a photo yesterday when I had the wheel off.

That's interesting! I can remember seeing at least one or two mid-year changes specified in the parts catalog, when I went to order the calipers. Figuring out how the caliper mount bushings went in the anchor arms (and which bushings to use) was especially stimulating!

I called InLineTube and they don't list 71 F250 2WD for sure, however I think I may just get the 71 F100 2WD disc kit and modify as needed. It's gotta be close (it is listed as an 8 pc set, which means the routing must be similar).

I see! Well I think that will probably work out great for you. Probably at least four or five of those eight will go in with slight re-bends. And for the others, you'll still probably be ahead as compared to starting from scratch!

I'm not sure whether you've handled stainless brake lines much before; I hadn't until recently. And I was really impressed by how much more difficult they were to bend and flare than the old fashioned steel lines! So starting from scratch (with stainless) would mean signing up for a major project.

Robroy