72 F100 project, longbed to short conv, CV swap, 20s

[CO684X4]

Looking great. love the truck. Have a few questions for ya. How did you go about centering the CV subframe? Do you have any measurements? Also do you have any pics of where you attached the motor mounts to the frame? Did you use a manual steer column or a powers steer one?

[JG F100]

Looking great. love the truck. Have a few questions for ya. How did you go about centering the CV subframe? Do you have any measurements? Also do you have any pics of where you attached the motor mounts to the frame? Did you use a manual steer column or a powers steer one?

Thanks, I used the bodybuilders diagrams from this site to base my measurements. Some of the frame holes or markings were a little off (about 1/16 to 1/8") but that seems to be within factory tolerances. Just make sure you measure BEFORE you start disassembly, I used all kinds of rulers, squares, tape measures and even a laser to make sure everything was centered and lined up.

I think there are some pictures a page or so back on how I fabbed and welded the mounts to the frame. I used my manual column but hope to upgrade to a tilt someday.

[JG F100]

Also, what is the year and hub to hub width of the 8.8 Explorer differential?

Here's the 8.8 out of a 2005 CVPI with 3.27 locker and wats link. I pulled it from the car before measuring and discovering it is 70 inches wide (hub-to-hub). I may have to get it shortened or find a different different setup.

I think the explorer was a 2000 or 2001 model and it 59.75" wide, stock 9" is 61"

Cool that means a lil wider rear tires ... im deff doing this sometime... Dose this mean that you are going to flip the 8.8 rear end and notch the frame for safety.. and how you going to mount this.. if you dont flip it..... I personaly dont like the ride of leaf springs...

I've been debating on how to do the rear, easiest would be to slap the rear back on top of the leaf springs. I've got the ubolts and brackets but seems like I should upgrade it to at least match the front's fancy rack and pinion and stuff. I'd like to get a parallel four bar with coilovers as it seems the easiest to install but heard a triangulated might be better. Then there are adjustable four links out there for drag racing that interest me too. Either way I will do a small notch but I'll probably wait until after I get new wheels and tires to see what works better.

[CO684X4]

Thanks for the info on getting it lined up. Have a few other questions. Do you think the OE power steering pump could be used or do I need and updated one? I noticed you are using factory exhaust manifolds. Do you think a set of headers will work with this setup? Last question. Where did you get your motor mounts. I know you built them. Did you build them from a kit? Thanks.

[JG F100]

Thanks for the info on getting it lined up. Have a few other questions. Do you think the OE power steering pump could be used or do I need and updated one? I noticed you are using factory exhaust manifolds. Do you think a set of headers will work with this setup? Last question. Where did you get your motor mounts. I know you built them. Did you build them from a kit? Thanks.

Not sure on the OE power steering pump, but it may work but I heard Ford pumps can get whiny. I hope to be able to fit headers, the motor is positioned exactly the same as it was it with original motor mounts. The passenger side might be tight as the engine is offset about 1". I made the motor mounts out of 3/16" plate, 1 3/4" pipe with some Energy suspension poly leaf spring bushings, similar design to the autofab mounts and something I've seen on street rods before. I probably could have made them bolt-on or removable if I wanted to.

[CO684X4]

Ok thanks for the help.

[CO684X4]

Another question for ya. How did you get the splined end on the steering colomn where the rag joint was?

[JG F100]

Another question for ya. How did you get the splined end on the steering colomn where the rag joint was?

I just took the rag joint off, cleaned up the splines and slid the ujoint on. I will say my column seems to be missing a few pieces but it works. I have that big gap between the steering wheel and the column.

[CO684X4]

Ok. Now a dumb question. How was your rag joint attached to the column? Mine looks like it is permanently attached. Did yours have a bolt or something holding it on? Or was it pressed on?

[JG F100]

Ok. Now a dumb question. How was your rag joint attached to the column? Mine looks like it is permanently attached. Did yours have a bolt or something holding it on? Or was it pressed on?

There was a bolt holding mine on, then I just tapped it off.

[CO684X4]

Ok thanks. Looks like I need to find a different column then.

[tpw35]

What did you do about the drive shaft when you went from a long to a short bed.

[JG F100]

What did you do about the drive shaft when you went from a long to a short bed.

Went to this junk yard that had a pile of driveshafts and bought a single piece one that was the right length. Although I may need another one for the 8.8 rear.

[JG F100]

got to work on the bed the past few days, the little short bed I got didnt have a good floor. It was completely rusted out including the wheel wells and about 3-4 inches up the sides. I still had my original long bed that I shortened, it was solid but I didnt get any real offers so I decided to cut the floor out and clear out some room in the my garage. This bed project was a little more difficult and time consuming than I thought it would it be but I got it done.







Yes, I used "bed" rails to hold my "bed" rails in place.




The other bed had a huge dent here, this one is nice and straight.


You can tell I spent some time with the flap disc. I may do a spray-in liner later to hide some of the dents.


The left overs, I think my dog is tired of seeing this in his yard.


So now I can start working on swapping the rear end.

[CO684X4]

looking good. good job. what rearend are you going with? still the explorer rearend?