carb questions... no rants please

[flatblack]

Ok, without everyone getting worked up because you own a holley and your uncle owns a holley and your buddy..... etc, I am trying to get the most bang for my buck with a carb, I've always been drawn to edelbrocks myself, they seem to be a good user friendly all around performance carb.... i do not like the idea of having a holley unless someone can change my mind, i dont need a whole bunch of explinations on why they are the best thing since sliced bread either, they just seem like a real pita, i owned one once and im hoping never again.... now heres what im wondering, what about the autolite 4's? could they be used for performance? how would one go about using one and being able to tune it effectively? i have a dyno available for tuning, i have to admit, not much of a carb guy but the whole budget thing is kicking into my build and fuel injection is out of the question, and i know carbs can be tuned very effectively for both performance and fuel mileage... also im wondering about CFM's, Im wondering how much i need, i will be running a weiand stealth intake on this engine (build link) http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =3&t=43867 ..... sorry for the long post and all the questions, basically broke down im wondering what carb for daily driver, how many cfm? and which one is suitable for a guy that doesnt know a lot about carbs and tuning them?

[Redcap]

Ok, without everyone getting worked up because you own a holley and your uncle owns a holley and your buddy..... etc, I am trying to get the most bang for my buck with a carb, I've always been drawn to edelbrocks myself, they seem to be a good user friendly all around performance carb.... i do not like the idea of having a holley unless someone can change my mind, i dont need a whole bunch of explinations on why they are the best thing since sliced bread either, they just seem like a real pita, i owned one once and im hoping never again.... now heres what im wondering, what about the autolite 4's? could they be used for performance? how would one go about using one and being able to tune it effectively? i have a dyno available for tuning, i have to admit, not much of a carb guy but the whole budget thing is kicking into my build and fuel injection is out of the question, and i know carbs can be tuned very effectively for both performance and fuel mileage... also im wondering about CFM's, Im wondering how much i need, i will be running a weiand stealth intake on this engine (build link) http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =3&t=43867 ..... sorry for the long post and all the questions, basically broke down im wondering what carb for daily driver, how many cfm? and which one is suitable for a guy that doesnt know a lot about carbs and tuning them?

I've got a 650cfm Edelbrock AVS on my 352 and it runs great. No trouble, no fuss...just key it up and drive it.

[FORDification]

You're asking about using either an Autolite 4100, 4300 (and 4300D) or 4350. I'd strongly recommend using the 4100.



The 4100 is a very simple and fiercely reliable carburetor that needs virtually no maintenance throughout its service life. When Ford engineers went to the drawing board approaching 50 years ago to design the 2100 two-barrel and 4100 four-barrel Autolite carburetors, they over-engineered them in every respect. Fuel leakage is virtually impossible, because these carburetors are one solid casting with integral fuel bowls. The accelerator pump is fully adjustable. Remove the air horn and adjust the floats even with the engine running. Choke adjustment is a cakewalk. The greatest advantage behind the 2100 and 4100 is simplicity.

The 4100 has tuneable vacuum secondaries and can be had with three different CFM ratings. There is a small cast circle on the driver's-side body of the carb which shows you the venturi size. The most common two the 1.08" or the 1.12" style. The CFM figures are roughly about 485 and 600. A third size available was the 1958 383, sporting about 700 cfm. For your application with a slightly-built 351W, I'd suggest the 1.12" style.



Here's a link with some good basic info on the 4100:

http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/200 ... ure24.html

[4dtrks]

If you want simplicity and tuneability, go with an Edelbrock. You can change metering rods and jets easily, they don't get bothered too much by weather changes, and there really isn't much to em.

Holley does have a better selection, more aftermarket support, and the ability to control fuel more accuritely though.

[427]

I personally haven,t ever ran an Edelbrock carb. I have friends that have and they say bolt it on adjust the idle and go. They seem to like them very well. Brian.

[m-mman]

I will go with Keith. Autolite 1000% reliable! and simple.
Holleys? dont get me started either. I mean put the fuel bowl on its side and then dont expect it to leak?? Come on . . . .

Performance?
well IF you were into documented performance evaluations (collecting exact performance numbers then analyzing them for variable such as each engine or drive line modification and accounting for the weather) then there are better (more adjustable to match the exact operatings conditions) carbs.

If you want something to just run for fun? That wont let you down? Motorcarft/Autolite

The ONLY problem with the 4bbl versions is the vacumn signal that opens the secondaries travels through 3 castings and crosses 3 gasketed surfaces. This means the potential for a vacuum leak and non-operation of the secondaries is a good possibility. But even when 'forced to operate as a 2 bbl' they work great!

[fordman]

what am i ranting about?

[papabug71]

Im looking forward to running the Autolite 4100 I got from Brokenarrow. They have a reputation a mile long & its a good one.

[flatblack]

thanks for all of the info guys, very helpful.... now ive rebuilt a thousand 2100's, are these 4100 just as simple?? they look to be the same thing just double sided.

[m-mman]

Yes, if you can build a 2bbl you can build a 4bbl.

As you do the work trace the vacuum ports for the secondary diaghpram and check the mating surfaces. I have comonly found warped castings and had to draw file them flat to insure sealing.

Also the recent kits I purchased do not include the seconday diaghpram - you need to buy that separately.
Good luck