Let's play a game called "WTF is THAT?"

Negative · Post by **Negative** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:20 pm

I have 2 pieces in the engine and I have NO idea what they are.

the first image here is found mounted to the driver side wheel well. the image is low quality cause it's from my crappy cell phone. I have labeled the wire colors and outlined the box.

Any ideas?

The second image here is found on passenger side and is a hollow pipe thing. It connects to a swivel screw mount on the carb adjustment knob (or there abouts). The other end is just hanging there.

How about that one?

flyboy2610 · Post by **flyboy2610** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:23 pm

The second one looks like someones bad attempt at a hot air choke!

Negative · Post by **Negative** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:38 pm

Quite likely. It was originally setting next to (maybe once actually on) the stock manifolds. I have since replaced those with Hooker Headers. Now it just hangs. If I remove it, do I need to plug the hole it leaves in the screw mount side?

fordman · Post by **fordman** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:48 pm

#1 is possibly a battery saver switch. i lost the word for it ISOLATOR. is your truck a camper special or a contractor special?
#2 is a stove pipe for the choke it hooks into the choke housing and the passenger side manifold. to provide the heat to the choke spring so it can operate properly.

mkpj1 · Post by **mkpj1** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:53 pm

I like your style,...WTF is that?

Looks like you had a previous owner much like the one I had. I'm not educated on the options on the 250's but the picture is bad on the driver side and I am not sure but that looks like the connection for the window washer motor. That would be the "I have no idea" item. I'm assuming all your lights on the left are good because i don't know those wire colors. the window washer is hot-black-on-green with a black ground,... I think? Where does orange start. Go to the fuse box? Looks to me like he reinvented the wheel or maybe had some portable ass. for construction and such,...who knows, and tapped into the window washer? Also, light blue was to a compressor for the A/C.

Sh#@, I have to agree with Flyboy on the other photo. Goes to your exhaust manifold.

No doubt,..where do you live? I think the same guy own my truck. My "previous owner

" shorted the fuse box and just decided to wire around it with well,..the wrong gauge wire,..among other things,..the WHOLE truck! Me and my test light got to know each other real well.

Good luck!

Ken H.
68 f100 SWB 390
68 f100 LWB 360
74 Bronco 351W

Negative · Post by **Negative** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 7:47 pm

Thanks! I will try to get a better picture. The box-thing is where the second battery and the washer pump tank were. I was told it was a CS, but the Vin plates say otherwise. The pipe-thing I am not worried about so much, just curious if I could remove it without worry.

As for the box thing, I don't know if it is working or not working, just curious as to what it is. Because of the PO's OCD about the aftermarket wires, tracing them back through teh firewall is a day long chore by itself. I haven't tried following those back yet. I may. One day.

ToughOldFord · Post by **ToughOldFord** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 8:47 pm

You could remove the tubing and cap the fitting, but then your choke wouldn't be able to heat up and open properly. They do make an adapter that clamps to the header and you can run the choke tubing to that. So you could fix it that way or remove the auto choke and and install a manual.

BTW, the port on the side of your carb for the vacuum advance it open. You'll want to hook it up or at least plug it so you're not leaking vacuum.

No idea on the L/S fender thing, I don't think it's stock, it just looks like a bunch of wires wire tied together and it doesn't resemble the resistor found on many camper specials.

Montana71-F100 · Post by **Montana71-F100** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 11:56 pm

The other end of the choke tube is inserted in the exhaust manifold as shown in the picture.

Post by **DuckRyder** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 7:30 pm

(1) Not a clue... maybe a very old electric trailer brake resistor?

(2) Your Hooker headers should have a heat stove on the rear pipe, it is the "U" shaped tube on the rear pipe. You must hook the tube up or convert it to electric assist for the choke to work properly.

Negative · Post by **Negative** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 11:04 pm

Thanks guys! Soon as the sun comes up and I get off work I will look at all connections. I have the U shape tupe on the header but the pipe didn't fit. Maybe I will just make it.

fordman · Post by **fordman** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 11:29 pm

the holes in the manifold. sometimes get part of the rusted off pipe in them. you can take a drill and drill the manifold back out. this will eat out the old tube that is still left in the manifold. so you can then put the new pipe in the manifold.

Post by **DuckRyder** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 5:42 am

I seem to recall that there was a short tube to connect them, the headers should have had very detailed instructions with them. I did not use the hot air choke (in fact I cut the "U" off).

Negative · Post by **Negative** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 1:31 am

Instructions? What are those?

Alvin in AZ · Post by **Alvin in AZ** » Tue Sep 29, 2009 1:39 am

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/choke1.jpg
Nothing wrong with a choke a hacksaw and hoof rasp can't fix. ;)

Alvin in AZ

XLT71CS · Post by **XLT71CS** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 6:51 am

They both go to the exhaust manifold on the right near the firewall. You should see 2 hole there. The larger tube goes in the front hole and the smaller tube goes into the rear hole. You most likely will have to clean up the holes to reinstall these tubes because they tend to rust up. If you took the exhaust manifold off you would see a compartment accessed through a plate secured by a screw. you remove the screw to remove the access door to open the compartment. You dont want to remove exhaust manifold just for this though.

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