My idle speed is pretty close to 900 at the stop light. Its about right. I thought the vacuum might be too much as in... if it were less, the pin in the mod. valve would not be sucked out so much and would affect the engagement of the auto tranny.70_F100 wrote:The modulator has no effect on transmission operation when the vehicle is stopped.
You say the idle speed is correct. What is the RPM in drive with vehicle stopped?
As for the shift points, going into 3rd gear at 18 MPH is about right under light acceleration.
How hard should manual brakes be?
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Re: How hard should manual brakes be?
Well I learned a few things about brakes here.
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Re: How hard should manual brakes be?
I think you may have just identified your problem.
The idle speed should be down around 600-650 or so when warm with the tranny in drive and the parking brake applied (somebody else chime in here, I'm at work and don't have the specs handy). If it's at 900, you're approaching the stall speed of the converter (not quite there yet, though). At that RPM, it's probably idling at about 25 MPH in high gear!!! Also, it's a wonder you can even get the engine to shut down when you turn off the key, because if it's set at 900 in drive, it's probably running at about 1050-1100 when you shift into park. It probably tries to give you whiplash when you put it in gear!!!
If you've got a cam or other mods that require the higher idle speed, you should probably invest in a converter with a higher stall speed.
Regarding the tranny, the modulator's purpose is to "modulate" the shifts of the transmission, hence the name. It controls how hard the tranny shifts, provides downshift at lower speeds, and working in conjunction with the transmission governor, it helps control shift points. It has no effect on engagement.
Try setting your idle back, and see if you don't notice a HUGE difference!!! (You'll probably see your fuel mileage improve, too!!)
The idle speed should be down around 600-650 or so when warm with the tranny in drive and the parking brake applied (somebody else chime in here, I'm at work and don't have the specs handy). If it's at 900, you're approaching the stall speed of the converter (not quite there yet, though). At that RPM, it's probably idling at about 25 MPH in high gear!!! Also, it's a wonder you can even get the engine to shut down when you turn off the key, because if it's set at 900 in drive, it's probably running at about 1050-1100 when you shift into park. It probably tries to give you whiplash when you put it in gear!!!
If you've got a cam or other mods that require the higher idle speed, you should probably invest in a converter with a higher stall speed.
Regarding the tranny, the modulator's purpose is to "modulate" the shifts of the transmission, hence the name. It controls how hard the tranny shifts, provides downshift at lower speeds, and working in conjunction with the transmission governor, it helps control shift points. It has no effect on engagement.
Try setting your idle back, and see if you don't notice a HUGE difference!!! (You'll probably see your fuel mileage improve, too!!)
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Re: How hard should manual brakes be?
I agree the idle is waaaay to high for a stock/ mild engine. You are looking at 725 in drive MAX.
Also make sure your rear drum brakes are adjusted to lessen the pedal effort as well.
Josh
Also make sure your rear drum brakes are adjusted to lessen the pedal effort as well.
Josh
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Re: How hard should manual brakes be?
My bad. I was thinking of my VW Bug. 900 is the rpm setting for that.
Its been set to specs per book Im sure. 600 if thats what it is. For one thing its not that easy to tune an old car/truck and get it to idle at the correct idle, and I know I was surprised at how close I was able to get the correct idle.
Its been set to specs per book Im sure. 600 if thats what it is. For one thing its not that easy to tune an old car/truck and get it to idle at the correct idle, and I know I was surprised at how close I was able to get the correct idle.