bi metal hole saw ?

[kaptnkaos]

Hey guys,

I got ready to drill/cut two 2" holes in my F-600 dash panel only to realize the the new set of hole saws I have is for wood only.
A single 2" bi metal hole saw, with the arbor, is runnin' about $25 plus 9% sales tax. So I figure I'll probably just buy a set for not that much more.
Does any one recommend a particular brand they have had good luck with? Any to avoid ?
I want to cut two holes in the dash panel and one in my rear bardon step bumper for a trailer plug.

KaptnKA S

[fordman]

made in america is your best bet. other than that i have no comments on any certain brand.

[spotco2]

We use a lot of Morse brand (the red ones) with very good luck.

Just cut slow, use cutting oil and light pressure (let the saw do the work) and you should be able to get all 3 holes and lots more with one saw.

Greenlee are overpriced. Vermont does nto hold up well. I've got friends that swear by Lenox (white with removable arbor) but I've never had much luck with them and they are a pain to change out the arbor if they get hot.

[kaptnkaos]

Hey spotco2,

Here's the one I ordered... The write up seems pretty darn good.
I'll be sure to write up a product review after I see how it works.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... MEWNX%3AIT
I have to cut 2 holes in the f600 instrument panel. The 3rd hole is going to be through the bardon type step bumper.
I think it is 1/4 inch steel plate.
I need drill the hole in the bumper to mount a 7 blade trailer plug.

KaptnKA S

[spotco2]

That will be fine for cutting the sheetmetal dash. Just remember, slow to moderate speed and lots of oil to keep it cool. Cutting oil works great, but having a buddy with a fresh can of WD-40 works just about as well. If it's smoking, you are cutting to fast and not using enough oil.

When you go to cut that 1/4" plate bumper, it's going to be a chore.

Here's how I would do it.

Pick up a few 3/16" bits and a spare 1/4" bit. Drill your pilot hole with the new 1/4" bit for the hole saw...slow speed with lots of oil.

Chuck up your hole saw and start your big hole. Once you have a good mark on the metal with your hole saw, stop and change to the 3/16" bits. Go around the hole saw mark with the small bits and drill holes about every 1/4" to perforate the metal...slow with lots of oil. You might need to use a center punch to mark the 3/16" holes to keep the bits from drifting.

The extra holes will help A LOT with keeping the metal and saw cool. It will also reduce the amount of material the hole saw actually has to remove making the saw last much longer.

Does that make sense?

Did I mention to cut slow and use lots of oil?

[kaptnkaos]

Thanks for the advice spotco2...

I need to pick up a new oil squirt can. Mine seems to have dissapeared somewhere...
I'll be glad to get that that done... that's the last piece of major wiring I have left to fo.
The trailer piece will be hooked up to the main system...
Gonna have to run this all by Thunderfoot to find out about needing relays and such.

KaptnKA S