new ? for disk brake conversion

[69rangerf100]

ok i went to start pulling the front end off the 73 donor truck. when i was starting to get everything loosened up everything to get the front end to drop out in one peice. my question is where is the boost that you see on the on the drum brake set up? and is it just me or are the radious arms shorter on the 73-79 than on the 67-72?

Thanks,

David

[FORDification]

...my question is where is the boost that you see on the on the drum brake set up?...

I don't understand what you're asking. What "boost" are you talking about?

...and is it just me or are the radious arms shorter on the 73-79 than on the 67-72?

Nope, they're the same length. They're a slightly different style, obviously....stamped steel instead of forged steel, but the overall dimensions are the same and they're fully interchangeable. Just keep in mind that you have to use the coil spring setup matched to whatever radius arm you use. (Dentside radius arm needs dentside spring, bumpside radius arm needs bumpside spring)

[69rangerf100]

sorry about that i was thinking faster than i was typing. i meant to say the brake booster that has the master cylinder mounted on it on the 67-72 f100's. the 73 donor truck that i am pulling the disk brakes from just has the master cylinder but no brake booster. does the proportioning valve on the 73-79 take the place of the brake booster.

[fordman]

that truck has manual disc brakes. the proportioning valve is not to do with power o rmanual brakes. it is a metering type of valve that has to do with correct fluid pressure to the front calipers and the rear wheel cylinders. you must use the valve with disc brakes. you can add a booster later if you want. it is no big deal to put one in after the disc setup is already in. all the booster does is make the pedal easier to push when braking.

[69rangerf100]

so could i just use the booster that i have for my drums or do i need to get a different booster?

[fordman]

yes you can use it. there is no difference in how it works with disc or drum brakes.

[69rangerf100]

ok, this question just came to mind what would i have to do to make it so the truck has power brakes?

[fordman]

the brake booster is what gives it power brakes. it only needs a manifold vacuum source to make the booster work. the way a booster works is when you push on the brake pedal the vacuum from the manifold sucks harder on the brake booster making it easier to push down the brake pedal because the vacuum is helping push down the pedal for you.

[69rangerf100]

thanks i appreciate all the help that you have been giving me for all the dumb questions that i have been asking.

[Alvin in AZ]

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/radiusarms.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/radiusarms1.jpg

Yeah but. :)

Yeah, what Ranger said is true, functionally they are the same size. :)
But, the threaded portion its a little shorter on the forged radius arm.
The shoulder is in the same place (easier to see the shoulder in the shadow).

Took those picture because a guy was saying there was no shoulder. LOL :)
I told 'im just because there isn't a shoulder on yours now, doesn't mean
there wasn't a shoulder to start with. LOL :) Dangged rust-belt crap. LOL :)

I prefer the radius arm brackets not be riveted to the frame. YMMV
Last time I replaced the rubber bushings the side with the bolts was sooooo
cool to work with compared to the riveted side it was un-real.

"They" riveted them on for "them" not for "us", IMO.
4wd guys argue with me about this, 2wd guys that's done it both ways tend
to agree. :)

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/radiusarm.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/radiusarm1.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/radiusarm2.jpg
(I shoulda put a bolt through them, to line them up for that picture)

The bolts I used are 7/16x1" flywheel bolts and the nuts are 3/4" lug nuts
(7/16-20 inside) flipped over. The original rivets are 3/8". The reason that
I removed them to start with was to square up my suspension, moved that
bracket forward ~1/4". I measured the crap out of everything and decided
moving that bracket was the best thing to do. :)

Measuring the suspension is tricky business and takes time, but well worth
it if yours is crooked, seems to me now's the time to do that, before you
take everything apart? ;)

My pickup's totally crapless I measured it so much in so many ways. LOL :)

Alvin in AZ

[69rangerf100]

ok after two days of working to get the front end off the 73 donor truck and a total of about 6 hours the removal was a success. have a nother question. how do i unbolt the caliper from the rest of the rotor to take the caliper off? and then after i have the caliper off how do you get the rotor off b/c i really need to clean al these parts cleaned up?

[Alvin in AZ]

how do i unbolt the caliper from the rest of the rotor to take the caliper off?
how do you get the rotor off?

The back of the caliper has a funny bolt (9/16" head) you take out and then with a hammer
and punch drive the steel block (along with its leaf spring) out either direction. The one I did
yesterday happened to take part of the tie rod end's cotter pin with it. LOL :) I put my cotter
pin in, in such a way it doesn't get in the way, but that wasn't the case with my parts truck on
one side.

The rotor and wheel bearing hosing are all one piece.
Just remove the "grease hub cap" and there you are. :)

Alvin in AZ