and cut it back out is exactly what i would do .
i have heard off offset bushings to do the same thing but never seen one firsthand. but it sounds like what you did would be just as good. I'll have to look and see if there's room for that end of the DJM's to move up .
this thread was started on lowering the rear a little so i hope MO-bronco got his answer before the
offset bushings?? i dunno about that, i dont see how it would work. if you do find anything about it let me know. maybe they work a little different and we could do both .
Im with you though, i hope he got his answer before we ran off with something else.
i looked at my beam ends and there's no room to go up with the DJM's. the brkt. thats riveted to the cross member will not allow me to go up with the end enough to get away from the existing whole for enough to drill a new one .
as far as the offset bushing, the actual metal bushing in the center of polyurethane would be offset to one side causing it to sit in a higher position just as re-drilling a whole as you were talking about.
gotcha. i think the djm beams are a little taller in the middle if that makes sense. so it may hit the crossmember sooner than a stock beam when you move the other end. bummer. well, marz is workin on his suspension, its looking like ill be back to work and saving for it, hopefully be ready when he is.
have you ever heard of "pie cutting" the aftermarket i-beams to correct -camber? what i read told you could cut a small "pie" slice out of the bottom of the beam, collapse it at the cut and re-weld it. i can see the general physics of it but i would want to know it was welded right for sure. my thinking is, cutting another round out of my coils for the total of 2 coils which would create lots of -camber, notching the cross member as you said earlier and doing the piecut. in theory this would create the most static drop possible with a i-beam front
and still have good camber.
Might be better to cut off the end and have the beam remade.
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