Rebuild or replace?
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- old_mare
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Rebuild or replace?
Well, I went into town today and on the way back, my truck started doing something she's never done before. Cruising along at about 45-50 mph, it started to sputter, almost as if she were out of gas. But- I had a little over half a tank and the fuel filter is recently replaced. Could that maybe be too rich of a fuel mixture?! I'm not quite sure which angle to attack this from. I could try and adjust the fuel mixture, but I don't want to make things worse.
The carb looks to be original. Its a 2bbl Motorcraft on my 360. My question is, should I rebuild it? Or should I break down and buy the new carb for it? Eventually, I want to put a Holley 600CFM on top of new Edelbrock intake. Only problem is, if I do all that to the intake, I have to do something with the exhaust as well or I will end up with a gas guzzling no-ball loser of a truck. I don't have the cash to allow for such a big purchase at this time. I wouldn't mind just rebuilding it, but this carb is in such bad shape the choke plate is wired open!
I'm between a rock and a hard place on this one, fellas.
-JT-
The carb looks to be original. Its a 2bbl Motorcraft on my 360. My question is, should I rebuild it? Or should I break down and buy the new carb for it? Eventually, I want to put a Holley 600CFM on top of new Edelbrock intake. Only problem is, if I do all that to the intake, I have to do something with the exhaust as well or I will end up with a gas guzzling no-ball loser of a truck. I don't have the cash to allow for such a big purchase at this time. I wouldn't mind just rebuilding it, but this carb is in such bad shape the choke plate is wired open!
I'm between a rock and a hard place on this one, fellas.
-JT-
"I'm a man, and I can change, if I have to, I guess." -Red Green
I'd rather push a Ford than drive a Chevy!
1930 Tudor : 1930 Pickup : 1969 F250 Custom
I'd rather push a Ford than drive a Chevy!
1930 Tudor : 1930 Pickup : 1969 F250 Custom
- ares360
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re: Rebuild or replace?
how much can you spend?
Kane
1971 Ford F250 4x2, no engine.....what am I going to do?
1971 Ford F250 4x2, no engine.....what am I going to do?
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I'd rebuild it, about $20 for a kit, that way you can use it until funds become availible. If you get a new alum. intake you probably will need a new 4 brl. carb.
1968 Ford Pickup
1998 Ford F-150 extended Cab
2000 Ford Explorer
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?pos=-1469
1998 Ford F-150 extended Cab
2000 Ford Explorer
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re: Rebuild or replace?
Usually when a truck starts to sputter like that, it's either bad gas or a clogged filter.
Just because the fuel filter was recently replaced doesn't mean it isn't already clogged up again. These old trucks frequently have a fuel tank that's rusting out from the inside, so it doesn't take long for rust particles to start to clog the filter. I'd first double-check your filter to make sure it hasn't re-clogged. (Is that even a word?) Also keep in mind that these trucks often have more than one fuel filter. If your truck has the canister-style fuel pump, the canister has a filter in it. Some carbs have the external screw-in type of filter too....and that's in addition to any in-line filters that might have been added by a previous owner. Check and/or replace them all.
I'm not saying that's what it is, but it's definitely the first thing I'd check. Also...a too-rich mixture will typically give you black smoke out the exhaust. Have you noticed any?
Remanufactured carbs do not have a good reputation here, since more often than not they're no better (or worse) then what it's replacing. If you eliminate all other possibilities and go for the carb, I'd either look at buying new or rebuilding your existing carb yourself. If you've never done this before, it's easy to be intimidated, but it's actually very simple inside. Just take your time, follow the directions and pay close attention as you disassemble it.
Just because the fuel filter was recently replaced doesn't mean it isn't already clogged up again. These old trucks frequently have a fuel tank that's rusting out from the inside, so it doesn't take long for rust particles to start to clog the filter. I'd first double-check your filter to make sure it hasn't re-clogged. (Is that even a word?) Also keep in mind that these trucks often have more than one fuel filter. If your truck has the canister-style fuel pump, the canister has a filter in it. Some carbs have the external screw-in type of filter too....and that's in addition to any in-line filters that might have been added by a previous owner. Check and/or replace them all.
I'm not saying that's what it is, but it's definitely the first thing I'd check. Also...a too-rich mixture will typically give you black smoke out the exhaust. Have you noticed any?
Remanufactured carbs do not have a good reputation here, since more often than not they're no better (or worse) then what it's replacing. If you eliminate all other possibilities and go for the carb, I'd either look at buying new or rebuilding your existing carb yourself. If you've never done this before, it's easy to be intimidated, but it's actually very simple inside. Just take your time, follow the directions and pay close attention as you disassemble it.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
- rubiranch
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re: Rebuild or replace?
Keith has a lot of good points.
Check your fuel pump to. Make sure it has 4-6 pounds pressure (someone correct me if I'm wrong). Also check the suction side for around 12"+ of vacuum.
For $20 I would try and rebuild yours before I bought a rebuilt.
Make sure you follow the instruction that are included with the kit.
I always used this wrench to install the new power valve. I also put a thin coat of grease on the power valve gasket.
I've seen a lot of them damaged when they are first installed by people using a long 1" wrench and over tightening and ripping the rubber diaphram inside the valve.
How old are the points and condenser?
Check your fuel pump to. Make sure it has 4-6 pounds pressure (someone correct me if I'm wrong). Also check the suction side for around 12"+ of vacuum.
For $20 I would try and rebuild yours before I bought a rebuilt.
Make sure you follow the instruction that are included with the kit.
I always used this wrench to install the new power valve. I also put a thin coat of grease on the power valve gasket.
I've seen a lot of them damaged when they are first installed by people using a long 1" wrench and over tightening and ripping the rubber diaphram inside the valve.
How old are the points and condenser?
72 F-250 CS XLT 390 C-6 4.10 40k miles
You don't shoot to kill, you shoot to stay alive.
I don't carry because I have to, I carry because I get to.
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?album=514
You don't shoot to kill, you shoot to stay alive.
I don't carry because I have to, I carry because I get to.
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?album=514
- old_mare
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re: Rebuild or replace?
Thanks, I appreciate the help.
I will probably just rebuild mine, its time anyway. As far as all the filters go, I will double check but I'm pretty sure I just have the one on the pump and an in-line filter.
As for the points/condenser.... I know I should have done this when I did plugs/wires/cap/rotor but... I guess I spaced it because its probably been a decade (or more) since they've even seen light of day. I'll do that too while I'm rebuilding the carb.
Does anyone know where I can find a choke assembly for my carb? If you don't remember, it looks like this:
Thanks again!
-JT-
I will probably just rebuild mine, its time anyway. As far as all the filters go, I will double check but I'm pretty sure I just have the one on the pump and an in-line filter.
As for the points/condenser.... I know I should have done this when I did plugs/wires/cap/rotor but... I guess I spaced it because its probably been a decade (or more) since they've even seen light of day. I'll do that too while I'm rebuilding the carb.
Does anyone know where I can find a choke assembly for my carb? If you don't remember, it looks like this:
Thanks again!
-JT-
"I'm a man, and I can change, if I have to, I guess." -Red Green
I'd rather push a Ford than drive a Chevy!
1930 Tudor : 1930 Pickup : 1969 F250 Custom
I'd rather push a Ford than drive a Chevy!
1930 Tudor : 1930 Pickup : 1969 F250 Custom
- ares360
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re: Rebuild or replace?
that round part on the side was the electric choke it looks like.
Kane
1971 Ford F250 4x2, no engine.....what am I going to do?
1971 Ford F250 4x2, no engine.....what am I going to do?
- old_mare
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re: Rebuild or replace?
I didn't have electric choke as far as I know. The choke cable is resting right below that "round part."
It would make sense if there was a heat tube anywhere but I don't see where that would be on this rig.
-JT-
It would make sense if there was a heat tube anywhere but I don't see where that would be on this rig.
-JT-
"I'm a man, and I can change, if I have to, I guess." -Red Green
I'd rather push a Ford than drive a Chevy!
1930 Tudor : 1930 Pickup : 1969 F250 Custom
I'd rather push a Ford than drive a Chevy!
1930 Tudor : 1930 Pickup : 1969 F250 Custom
- ares360
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- Location: Webb City
re: Rebuild or replace?
if that is a manual choke, its one that I have never seen. I think that is different carb though.
here is a picture of my manual choke.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h96/k ... 8_1112.jpg
here is a picture of my manual choke.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h96/k ... 8_1112.jpg
Kane
1971 Ford F250 4x2, no engine.....what am I going to do?
1971 Ford F250 4x2, no engine.....what am I going to do?
- sideoilerfe
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re: Rebuild or replace?
Your truck may have not had a hot air choke originally but that carb has one. Someone just tried to convert it and they didn't know what they were doing. A 69 should have an Autolite carb I would think. My 68 has one.
This is what the manual choke looks like.
This is what the manual choke looks like.
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Side oiler FE, see if you can catch me!!!
1970 F250 4x4 390/4spd
1968 F250 4X2 360/C6/No Rust!
1970 F250 4x4 390/4spd
1968 F250 4X2 360/C6/No Rust!
- old_mare
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re: Rebuild or replace?
Well, I was informed that this is not the original engine, so probably not the original carb. From reading my Chilton's, you are right, it should have an Autolite carb.
Guess my father's not so full of hot air after all!
-JT-
Guess my father's not so full of hot air after all!
-JT-
"I'm a man, and I can change, if I have to, I guess." -Red Green
I'd rather push a Ford than drive a Chevy!
1930 Tudor : 1930 Pickup : 1969 F250 Custom
I'd rather push a Ford than drive a Chevy!
1930 Tudor : 1930 Pickup : 1969 F250 Custom