how would you remove this nut?

1971ford · Post by **1971ford** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 10:47 pm

mljjones67 wrote:Can you pull the engine and trans out together?

yeah but i dont want to remove the whole front clip. mainly since the rad support mounts/bushings are soo hard to remove. well atleast they were on my 100% rust free 69. if cut off grinder doesnt work ill probably start taking the front edn apart

mljjones67 · Post by **mljjones67** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 2:58 am

Its possible to do it without taking it apart

1971ford · Post by **1971ford** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 8:56 am

how do you do that

take the tranny cross member out and then tilt ithe engine/tranny like crazy?

convincor · Post by **convincor** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 9:14 am

1971ford wrote: take the tranny cross member out and then tilt ithe engine/tranny like crazy?

Yep. but i'd still get it apart.

Redcap · Post by **Redcap** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:22 am

Gas axe.

sideoilerfe · Post by **sideoilerfe** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:47 am

Shouldn't the torque converter just slide out of the transmission attached to the engine?

390F100 · Post by **390F100** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 1:14 pm

When I removed the 390 and c6 out of the 70 f100 I took it all out together and it came out fine and was very easy to do, however I did have the same problem with the torque converter nuts being stuck on and stripping so what I did was use a chizel and be very careful to split the nut in half like stated above. The torque converter will slide out but I was informed that it could damage the torque converter if done so I ended up having to break the nuts. It sucked but it did work.

oldschoolrods · Post by **oldschoolrods** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 3:43 pm

When I had that happen to me, I pounded a metric socket on there and got it broke loose that way. I think I used a 14 MM.

sideoilerfe · Post by **sideoilerfe** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 4:25 pm

Wow. Seems to be a popular problem. I guess I got lucky on mine.

1971ford · Post by **1971ford** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 10:17 pm

what do you guys think... necklace?

took an hour of constant gripping it with vise-grips as hard as i could and stripping it as much as i could. then i decided to try the hand massager (this is what i call the air-chissel sicne its a HF pos

) and i kept diging a hole in the side with it until i saw it actually twist

at that awsome moment i grabbed the vicegrips and twisted it off

and then i found one more nut on the flywheel that was allready starting to be stripped so i got a 14mm socket like suggested and bashed it on and off it came

not only that but i pulled the eninge

James72 · Post by **James72** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 10:52 pm

390F100 wrote:When I removed the 390 and c6 out of the 70 f100 I took it all out together and it came out fine and was very easy to do, however I did have the same problem with the torque converter nuts being stuck on and stripping so what I did was use a chizel and be very careful to split the nut in half like stated above. The torque converter will slide out but I was informed that it could damage the torque converter if done so I ended up having to break the nuts. It sucked but it did work.

It wont damage the torque converter on the way out you'll just make a giant mess when the converter drains on the shop floor, but if you try to put it back together that way it will damage the transmission pump.

BTW, congats Ryan

390F100 · Post by **390F100** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 1:16 am

Yea it was something like that, I have never had good luck with the Ford C6 even though they are just about bullet proof. I figure mine will be out and replaced with a TCI in about 6 months. Good luck with the project.

willowbilly3 · Post by **willowbilly3** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:49 am

convincor wrote:cut both sides of the nut off with a die grinder/cut-off wheel(without hitting the stud). Then hit the right side of the flat you made with a chisel. Should split right off. The nuts only aluminum...

Yup, that. I use my die grinders all the time and what used to be "issues" really aren't anymore.
Ryan, first off loose the 12 point sockets, and then next time you do have a bad nut, before you reach for the vicegrips, which will indiscriminately destroy anything you clamp them onto, try going to the next size smaller metric 6 point socket and drive it on with a bfh. Sometimes that works. So if the nut was a 9/16 then you would use a 14mm.
Keep at it kid, your doing great, good to see young'uns learning and doing stuff.

Oh, and I also have SK sockets that are like halfway between short and deep, fit just right in those places and I would be lost without them.

FLATBEDFORD · Post by **FLATBEDFORD** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 9:28 pm

CO684X4 wrote:These work great. I use them all the time at work. Just tap them on with a hammer and then use a socket and remove the nut.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... s+%26+Dies

I have almost always had good results with those too.

LUB69F100 · Post by **LUB69F100** » Thu Aug 28, 2008 12:50 pm

I guess my theory of "it takes a good wench to loosen a tight nut" is kinda moot now.

I'll shush

Lub

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