COST EFFECTIVE Lowering questions 2wd

Suspension, steering, brakes, wheels & tires

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SMF Speed&Custom
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re: COST EFFECTIVE Lowering questions 2wd

Post by SMF Speed&Custom »

I looked at some other 66's and they have the same stance... It just looks like the front is higher but probably no, it just has that appearance. I lifted the front end up and seen if the wheel shakes in and out but it doesn't seem to, everything seems tight. Any other suggestions here? And thanks a ton for your help too man I appreciate you taking your time to try and help me.
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re: COST EFFECTIVE Lowering questions 2wd

Post by rjewkes »

how straight does the i beam look? how does the control arms look? your shocks up front are they maybe too long?
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Re: re: COST EFFECTIVE Lowering questions 2wd

Post by FORDification »

SMF Speed&Custom wrote:...What if I get dropped I Beams and then about 2 inch dropped springs... Can I bring it to a shop and have them bend them down more to compensate for that 2 inch drop?...
The stock I-beams can be bent, the drop beams cannot. Well, I should say that they shouldn't be bent, and I seriously doubt you're going to find someone who will bend them and stand behind their work.

I guess I'd just have to say that dropping them more than what the drop beams allow is probably not recommended, unless you can live with the tire wear and odd appearance. As you mentioned, these trucks aren't really the best for extreme lowering. However, you can always cough up the bucks and go with a Mustang II front end or grafting a full-size car front end onto your truck's frame.
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re: COST EFFECTIVE Lowering questions 2wd

Post by SMF Speed&Custom »

Well I do need new shocks so here is another question if you dont mind me asking... I have the 76 front end with Ibeams and all so do I get shocks for a 76 or a 66 like my truck is? I am going to make sure also that no rust is packed under the spring too that will build up and make the spring sit up more if you know what I mean. I have heard of that happening where rustbuilds up under it and then the spring starts rusting and expands, etc.

Thanks again guys!
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re: COST EFFECTIVE Lowering questions 2wd

Post by FORDification »

It doesn't matter, the front ends are the same, so they use the same shocks.
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re: COST EFFECTIVE Lowering questions 2wd

Post by customcrewcab »

if your going to change the front end just get a mustang II from fatmans. its under 500 and you don't have to clip your frame. its also lighter and there no steering box in the way. it s alot easier to put on then the other. if you want to clip it and stay ford you can use an ltd front end its the same measerments. i had one under a 70 shortbed. it dosesn't look as nice. theres less aftermarker parts, its alot heavier and it has a huge steering box like the chevy too. the mustang II will be your best bet. you will be much happier in the long run.
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Re: re: COST EFFECTIVE Lowering questions 2wd

Post by SMF Speed&Custom »

customcrewcab wrote:if your going to change the front end just get a mustang II from fatmans. its under 500 and you don't have to clip your frame. its also lighter and there no steering box in the way. it s alot easier to put on then the other. if you want to clip it and stay ford you can use an ltd front end its the same measerments. i had one under a 70 shortbed. it dosesn't look as nice. theres less aftermarker parts, its alot heavier and it has a huge steering box like the chevy too. the mustang II will be your best bet. you will be much happier in the long run.
Customcrewcab,
You say the Mustang II front end from Fatmans is only 500 bucks? Now is that with EVERYTHING from control arms, etc? Fatmans Fab is about 25 minutes from me so that wouldn't be a problem to pick the thing up if I had one made or ordered. I was looking at a Volare front clip, etc. I am wanting to lower this thing but then again I need wheels and tires BAD so have to put a clip in first because the bolt pattern is 5X5.5 so if I get new wheels for 5X5.5 then when I put the MII front end on it won't work. What is the bolt pattern on the Mustang II front clip anyways? If I go along with this then I would have to have it all done in about 4 or 5 days and it will be me and one other person helping me and that's about it.
Can I please get some more info on this Fatman Fab front end please, like what does it come with brake wise, is it complete, hard to put in, etc etc.

Thanks a lot!
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re: COST EFFECTIVE Lowering questions 2wd

Post by cobraF100 »

wt4speed#2,
Thanks
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re: COST EFFECTIVE Lowering questions 2wd

Post by customcrewcab »

my crossmember is thicker then my frame. i disagrees with your commit.

If you want to drive and use your truck I believe my way is better

how is it stronger to cut your frame off and stub a chevy car front to it. with the mustang II the frame rails stay in place less fab less to brake less parts, much cleaner. i have big brake, all you need to do is use the rotors off a ford granada and buy braktes to move the calpiers back. i have one truck with a chevy front, one with a ford 70 wagon front amd the mustang II. i can say the chevy was the worst. the mustang II is not weak. my buddys 55 ford pickup has one with a 93 powerstroke in it and he useing for towing. if not the mustang II use the drop ibeam but don't put another front on your truck.
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Post by 325hotford »

Chris, Cutting a frame is no big deal. I have stretched the frame on many bob-tail trucks. Almost all of the oilfield winch trucks out here are stretched. Almost all of the really lowered pickups in the magazines have step notched frames. I use pickup front clips- not cars. When finished it looks like a factory frame. If you use dropped spindles and air springs and lower the back- your truck will lay the frame on the ground and still drive and ride great. Well catch you later. Bob
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re: COST EFFECTIVE Lowering questions 2wd

Post by customcrewcab »

my truck stub in it he back. the point i was getting at theres no problems with the mustang II being weak. my other point is the a hell alot less to fix after putting one on. with a stub you need might need to redo rad supports and bumper brackets. yes it works. it just doesn't need to be done that way more.
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re: COST EFFECTIVE Lowering questions 2wd

Post by 67effie »

Sounds like a lot of extra work to gain a couple of lower inches. I currently do not have my front coils cut but I am going to chop 1/2 a coil to adjust for tire wear. Mine seam to be wearing on the outside edge instead of the inside. My brother cut his a 1/2 coil and it is dang near straight up and down. Keep in mind we both have droppped I-Beams also and flipped rear-ends with C-Notched frames. The one thing I am looking for is some softer leaf springs in the back for a gentler ride. I am currently looking into a 4-link with air bags for the rear to solve this.
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Post by fordman »

effie ok i dont know jack about rear ends. but i thought if you flipped the axle over puttting the right side on the left side that it would cause the truck to go in reverse when you were in drive is that right or wrong? what is the purpose of flipping the axle over then. if i'm wrong. or am i not understanding what your talking about?
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re: COST EFFECTIVE Lowering questions 2wd

Post by 67effie »

The term flipping the axle refers to mounting the axle on top of the springs instead of the bottom. In other words "flipping" the top to the bottom not the left to the right. Hope this helps.
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Post by fordman »

yea thats right i remember now sorry for my confusion. thats so the rear end can be lowered thanks
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