Ok, so we're starting with making this truck drivable and the most work I can find is it needs new radius arm bushings and a new RF coil spring. (she suffers from the typical Ford "sag.")
My question is: Why the hell is the bracket RIVETED onto the FRAME?!?! I assume I have to disconnect the shock and take the spring out to drop the kingpin in order to get the radius arm out. What a pain! Is there an easier way?! And once I'm done with that, would it be wise to align it as well?
Thanks folks,
-JT-
Replacing Radius Arm Bushings
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- old_mare
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Replacing Radius Arm Bushings
"I'm a man, and I can change, if I have to, I guess." -Red Green
I'd rather push a Ford than drive a Chevy!
1930 Tudor : 1930 Pickup : 1969 F250 Custom
I'd rather push a Ford than drive a Chevy!
1930 Tudor : 1930 Pickup : 1969 F250 Custom
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re: Replacing Radius Arm Bushings
The recommended method is to drop the front suspension away from the frame. That doesn't involve messing with the kingpins, but does mean you'll have to:
1) Disconnect the shocks
2) Remove radius arm nut/washer
3) Remove the front spring retainer strap (on top of each spring)
4) Remove axle pivot bolt
5) Drop that side of the suspension out from the frame
6) Repeat for opposite side
However, it might be easier (or at least not any harder) to simply grind the rivets away from each radius arm bracket, replace the bushings, and then bolt the bracket back in there with Grade 8 hardware.
There are some folks who simply remove the radius arm nut and use a come-along to pull the front suspension forward until the radius arm clears the bracket, but I don't recommend that method.
1) Disconnect the shocks
2) Remove radius arm nut/washer
3) Remove the front spring retainer strap (on top of each spring)
4) Remove axle pivot bolt
5) Drop that side of the suspension out from the frame
6) Repeat for opposite side
However, it might be easier (or at least not any harder) to simply grind the rivets away from each radius arm bracket, replace the bushings, and then bolt the bracket back in there with Grade 8 hardware.
There are some folks who simply remove the radius arm nut and use a come-along to pull the front suspension forward until the radius arm clears the bracket, but I don't recommend that method.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special



My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special



My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
- old_mare
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- Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2007 2:16 am
- Location: Maple Valley, WA
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re: Replacing Radius Arm Bushings
Okay that sounds workable. It doesn't look like there is a whole lot of room on the inner side of the frame for bolts. Maybe I should just leave it riveted on.
Are springs expensive? I have a set from a Jeep Rubicon that look pretty close to the same thickness but I don't think they are as big around. Don't want to have too little support up there...
-JT-
Are springs expensive? I have a set from a Jeep Rubicon that look pretty close to the same thickness but I don't think they are as big around. Don't want to have too little support up there...
-JT-
"I'm a man, and I can change, if I have to, I guess." -Red Green
I'd rather push a Ford than drive a Chevy!
1930 Tudor : 1930 Pickup : 1969 F250 Custom
I'd rather push a Ford than drive a Chevy!
1930 Tudor : 1930 Pickup : 1969 F250 Custom