good grinder to buy?
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- MAK
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re: good grinder to buy?
I have used the heck out of my Dewalt and it hasn't failed me yet. I would buy another if it ever does wear out.
- MAK
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re: good grinder to buy?
I just noticed that's not the same model as mine. It's 7 amps and mine is 9 amps. The other one they have on their web site is a 10 amp.
I've heard good things about the Makita too.
I've heard good things about the Makita too.
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- 1971ford
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- MadMaxetc
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I got one at Menards a ToolShop for $10 about 4 years ago. I have gon through at least 50 disks are it is still going strong. It is hit or miss with cheep stuff, but at $10 a pop, its realy not a gamble.
Dan
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Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4 / Work In Progress!
Daily Driver: '67 F-250 Converted to F-100 LWB / 300 / T-5 / 9" 3.70:1 / 235/75R15 Tires
1/4 mile in 17.64s @ 75mph (it's 4200lbs!!!)
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- 1971ford
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i asked this question about grinders on a paint/body forum a while ago, and im pretty much being told that using a grinder will destroy the metal. even if i move it alot, use a beefy stripper pad, and its on a old ford truck.
i dont see how using a grinder is that bad. this isnt going to be a showtruck anyways
i dont see how using a grinder is that bad. this isnt going to be a showtruck anyways

-Ryan
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re: good grinder to buy?
I think they are telling you that for a couple reasons Ryan. Grinders spin pretty fast and can cause the sheet metal your working on to heat up. You would be surprised at how quick you can get the metal glowing red hot, and that heat can cause ripples that really stand out when you apply the finish coat. Also, grinders can be a little too aggressive and put scratches into the metal. Though I think that with the pads that Keith showed you, that shouldn't be an issue.
One thing I thought I would mention to you is that IMO it isn't always necessary to strip to bare metal. The factory paint is good quality and applied under ideal conditions, its tough to match those conditions in a repaint situation. So if the paint isn't flaking off and seems to be holding tight to the metal, maybe just treat it as a first coat of primer and sand it smooth, only going to bare metal where there is rust or where the original paint is flaking off. In spots like that, where you have had to go to bare metal, you want to "feather" the paint smooth. Feathering means sanding back to good paint and making sure it is a gentle, smooth transition from the bare metal to the existing paint. No rough, or sharp edges at all.
Anyway, you do it how ever you want, just make sure you keep posting lots of pictures because, other then a little bit of drama now and then, your projects are the most entertaining posts!
One thing I thought I would mention to you is that IMO it isn't always necessary to strip to bare metal. The factory paint is good quality and applied under ideal conditions, its tough to match those conditions in a repaint situation. So if the paint isn't flaking off and seems to be holding tight to the metal, maybe just treat it as a first coat of primer and sand it smooth, only going to bare metal where there is rust or where the original paint is flaking off. In spots like that, where you have had to go to bare metal, you want to "feather" the paint smooth. Feathering means sanding back to good paint and making sure it is a gentle, smooth transition from the bare metal to the existing paint. No rough, or sharp edges at all.
Anyway, you do it how ever you want, just make sure you keep posting lots of pictures because, other then a little bit of drama now and then, your projects are the most entertaining posts!
Last edited by seattle67 on Sat Mar 15, 2008 8:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- DuckRyder
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There is a lot of truth to that, grinders create a lot of heat and that is not what you want.1971ford wrote:i asked this question about grinders on a paint/body forum a while ago, and im pretty much being told that using a grinder will destroy the metal. even if i move it alot, use a beefy stripper pad, and its on a old ford truck.
Can you maybe get by with it if you are VERY careful, yes. Is it much less forgiving, yes.
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
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re: good grinder to buy?
Dewalt. They can also be rebuilt like new for a third of a new one. Most cities have a dewalt repair store
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i was looking at the dewalt in the case from lowes its a little more then the one you linked to but it is 10amp and you get a case.
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1979 F250 Ranger 4X4 400ci T18
anyone need a 60x24x24 flatbed semi toolbox?
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- 1971ford
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i got the firestorm. this thing is a BEAST.
i dont know how much bettter you can get!
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reason i got this instead of the dewalt, is because this one has a trigger and a trigger lock, the dewalt has a switch on the side towards the front which i would hate! with the trigger you can turn it on and off constantly while you quickly find a new spot to grind.
i have think undercoating and dirt on the bottom of my bed, this thing tore right through all that the second it touched.
i couldnt believe it!
i dont know how much bettter you can get!

reason i got this instead of the dewalt, is because this one has a trigger and a trigger lock, the dewalt has a switch on the side towards the front which i would hate! with the trigger you can turn it on and off constantly while you quickly find a new spot to grind.
i have think undercoating and dirt on the bottom of my bed, this thing tore right through all that the second it touched.
i couldnt believe it!
-Ryan