how to buy paint...

[Steve302]

Peeling is a result of improper workmanship, all paints will peel if prepped improperly.
My single stage paint jobs look just as nice as any clearcoat and in most cases you cant tell any difference (referring to solid colors)
In my opinion and experience a single stage done properly providing its a good quality product will last just as long a clear coat, some extra care may be needed (handglaze every 2 months if parked in direct sun) .
A clear coat in alot of cases dont last more than a few years because the painter PIss coats the clear to save time and money.
keep in mind that some car companies (mazda, Kia for example) still use a singlestage system on some white and red cars.
Steve

[1971ford]

ok so i think ill be doing a single stage.
so what i need to look for is "a singlestage product such as the Arcylic Urethane called Ful-Thane made by DuPont under the Nason name" correct?

are these the things i need? -basecoat(the color), catylist, reducer, and hardener?

what is catylist? reducer makes it more liquidy? and hardener hardens it after painting or something?
sorry for all the questions

[Mugwump]

So the real question is... how much will it cost Ryan to have Steve302 paint it for him??
(While you're at it, I'd like to get mine done too!!

Steve302, I also appreciate the time you've taken to explain all this stuff - I've been on the fence about attempting my own paintjob, but I'm leaning more towards having a shop in Nevada do the work - apparently they're not under the same restrictions as the shops here in Cali as far as the products used.

Any opinion on that?

[Mugwump]

I have a friend who does restorations, but he's no body/paint guy. He basically strips all the trim, moldings, weatherstripping, glass, bumpers, all the way down to the basic body shell. Then, he does most of his own masking, where necessary.

Then he flatbed's it over to a quality paint/bodyshop, and has them do the body prep, painting and color sanding. He also tells them that there's no rush, and that they can work on it at their leisure. He saves quite a bit in labor, and since there's not any rush, and he brings another car in about every other month, he gets great prices ($1-2K).

Once he gets it back home, he does the final polishing, installs all new weatherstripping and glass, and does all the reassembly. I think this is a good method to ensure that you get a good quality paintjob, and it leaves a lot of the detail work in your own hands.

[1971ford]

that sounds like a good plan!
but wouldnt you want to take the bed off for the cab/bed gab?

1-2k seems like that would be what it would cost for me doing it anyways. for the spray gun/color sanding supplies/paint/hardener and stuff and everything else.

i like the going to nevada part too.

hmm

[Mugwump]

You'd definitely want to take the bed off - I was just talking about the cars that I've helped him with in the past.

The 1-2k basically just covers the basic body prep and spray, with a color sanding. If there's any real body work/rust issues, that's gonna be extra of course. You also have to keep in mind that this is a guy who's built a working relationship with this body shop, so it might be tough to find the same deal with your local shop. I can tell you though, he does get quality results.

[1971ford]

the only dents in the truck will be removed before it sees paint. and there is zero rust. so thats good.

yeah i bet they give that guy a pretty big discount. it would probably be out of my range when the discount isnt there.

[1971ford]

hello again,
here it is...........

if you just paint the outside............
I gallon Nason Ful-thane Arcylic Urethane (single stage) and the catylist and reducer to go with it
Add antoher quart plus catylist if you paint the interior
And another quart if you paint inside the bed
Remember SOLID color, if its a metallic or pearl, go base/clear.

more questions and then it should be clear to me...
1) doest the catylist and reducer come with it, or do i buy them also to go with it?
2)"Add antoher quart plus catylist if you paint the interior" + reducer right?3)"And another quart if you paint inside the bed" + reducer/catylist right?

and how much catylist reducer do you think i need for in bed and interior, and body if it doesnt come with it?

and just for reference i do plan on painting body/interior/in bed/firewall.
thanks thanks thanks thanks thanks!

[Mugwump]

Steve302, thanks for that advice - it's very informative to hear the shop's point-of-view. Ryan would be wise to take your thoughts to heart.

I may have given the wrong perspective based on the fact that this guy does this all the time with his shop, and as I mentioned before, they have a good working relationship. I've helped my friend with the before and after processes, and have always been impressed with the results he gets for that price; but I'm no expert on it so I may be a bit naive to think that Ryan (or I) can get a similar deal.

[Steve302]

The deals are definitely out there, and the guy you are refering to is the one you want to go to. If a shop has an A1 reputation for the final product, warranty, and prices then have no fear.

As for the question about the paint, catylist and reducer..........
I buy all my reducers and catylist in bulk.
Heres how it goes...........
I gallon of Ful-Thane is 8 parts paint to 1 part catylist, the paint comes in gallons and quarts, and the catylist comes in 1/2 pints and full pints, the reduction ratio for the reducer is 10% or whatever the painter prefers (never exceed 20 percent) the reducer comes in gallons.
so you will have far more reducer than you will ever need and as for the catylist....... well you do the math.
I usually add 10% more catylist than recomended, this actually delays the dry time (you would think it would make it dry faster but no) I do this to allow a better flow of the paint before flash. Since this is your first time painting, stick to the rules and follow the data sheets.
I think this paint would be very good for a beginner because it can be sprayed at a slightly higher air pressure with a large spray fan setting and get coverage along with a smooth, shiny finish. Also this paint will spray fine in 70 degree weather too. Make sure your spray gun has a 1.3 or 1.4 head, anything bigger and your paint will be running off every edge of the truck bringing a whole new meaning to drip rails.
Keep in mind that every painter is different and has different methods and you will have to find your method too, but you wont get it down perfect on your first truck.
Steve

[1971fordsdad]

I vote for 3 cases of rattle can! Since I am going to be helping with this project, I would like to keep it simple.

[Steve302]

In that case Krylon is great stuff!!!!!!!!

[Mugwump]

and that brings us back to......

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... hp?t=27786

[1971ford]

I vote for 3 cases of rattle can! Since I am going to be helping with this project, I would like to keep it simple.

dad, i am not going to do rebuild this truck frame up and have a rattlecan paint job

if you want to do rattlecan then you dont need to help with paint.

[Mugwump]

oooo.... feisty little fella!