Prepping frame for painting

[Georgia71]

Hello All,

I was using a wire brush wheel to remove rust on my frame tonight. I thought that I would sand blast the seams and places I couldn't get to with wire wheel. After trying the sandblaster I might just use it on the entire frame. What would be the best way of doing this? I'm not on a time frame so either way is fine with me. Also, after sand blasting the frame do I need to clean the metal with something like mineral spirits or laquer thinner? I'm trying to do this on a low budget so I'm going to paint the frame with rustoleum primer and paint. I'm including some photo's to show what shape the frame is in.

Larry

[FORDification]

If you're set on using the Rustoleum, then your methods will work just fine. A sandblasted frame will give the steel a great texture for good primer adhesion. You definitely need to wipe the bare steel down with some kind of degreaser immediately prior to applying any paint/primer.

However, while I know you're trying to do things on a budget, I'd like to point out that a single quart can of POR-15 is only about $50 and is usually enough to do an entire frame. Not only would it be more durable than the paint IMO, but you'd also save a lot of prep time using it, since you don't have to sandblast the entire frame beforehand, plus you don't have the setup, clean-up and hazards of using a paint gun...just brush it on.

[Banjo]

you don't want to use mineral spirits, it does have some petroleum ingredients in it, I believe (as does gasoline) and will leave an unseen residue, but lacquer thinner, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, denatured alcohol, they make special wax and grease remover available in gallon tins at any paint supply shop.
I hit my engine bay with pressure washer after using wire brushes, flatheads/putty knife, brake cleaner and painted rustoleum by brush, looks ok, but not holding up as well as I'd have wanted, did some of my frame area too, it's holding ok. the engine bay area, if you crawl in and out to do stuff and a wrench hits it, it's going to come off, on the frame areas as long as I haven't hit with wrench, it's sticking. But, I have used other products (POR-15) and Chassis Saver that work better than rustoleum. If you are going to sandblast, be aware doing it yourself, you probably couldn't hurt a frame, but if you hit a thin spot on any floorpan, it'll blow out what's already weak and the sand causes silicosis (bad lung disease) so wear proper masking. And, be aware, you'll get sand where you never expected and you need to block off your differential vent and any vents around engine, if frame still under cab with motor installed.

[old tired rebel]

Or you could have the frame powdered coated or use Linex truck bed liner to keep it from rusting again.

[Georgia71]

If I use POR 15 should I put a top coat of paint on it? And should I also use it on the suspension parts?

Larry

[FORDification]

No, you don't paint on top of the POR-15....well, unless you WANT to, but it's definitely not necessary. POR-15 is affected by ultraviolet light though, so you couldn't paint a bumper with it alone, it would need a topcoat to prevent it from getting faded and chalky. But the frame isn't affected by this. If you decide to topcoat the POR-15, you'll either have to do it while it's still tacky...JUST before it's totally set up...or use their special tie-coat primer first, and then paint.

POR-15 works great on suspension parts too. I used it on my rear springs. This stuff is EXTREMELY flexible, so you don't have to worry about it chipping on springs.

http://www.fordification.com/my67-p28.htm

[Georgia71]

I tryed some more sandblasting today. Man this is a long process! Not sure if I can get to all places on the frame. I might take it to have a professional do that part. I checked on one place and they told me 175.00. Is that kinda expensive?

Larry

[MadMaxetc]

I tryed some more sandblasting today. Man this is a long process! Not sure if I can get to all places on the frame. I might take it to have a professional do that part. I checked on one place and they told me 175.00. Is that kinda expensive?

Larry

I don't think thats out of line. I am cheep and would not pay more than $100, but thats me. I plan to do mine in my driveway with a small unit like yours.

[71PA_Highboy]

How much is your time worth? I'll bet you can get a lot done in the time you would have spent sandblasting...

It may cost $175, but is the 8-10 hours you will spend hunched over the frame to get it done worth it? I know that will kill MY back....

JMHO,

Eric

[dcbullet]

Nice garage!

[Nausea]

On the topic of rattle can finishes: after trying several primers I got Rustoleum's brown one that says its the "ultimate finish for heavily rusted" metal... turned out to be pretty good stuff, it dries fast and is thick enough to fill in minor surface imperfections.
And for the $ savers out there, Home Depot has $0.99 a can black enamel paint (labeled as some generic), but the company producing it is right on the back of the can ... ROC Sales which is actually Rustoleum! I could only find it here in gloss, but at that price who's complaining for areas where nobody is *really* going to see?

[Georgia71]

Hey thanks for the comments and advice. I have decided to go ahead and just do it myself. I'm going to knock off what I can get to with the wire wheel on my angle grinder. Then get the rest with some sand paper and sandblaster. Clean it with laquer thinner. Then spray on rustoleum primer. I got a quart of this stuff. Then apply rustoleum enamel paint. I purchased a quart of gloss, and a quart of flat black. I will mix these 50/50. A friend of mine did this on his ford falcon with good results. I will thin it with acetone. The label on the can says you can thin it with acetone or mineral sprits. The acetone thinned paint drys somewhat faster than with mineral sprits. I'm going to try to get this done tomorrow. Will post photos of progress.

Larry

[Georgia71]

Well I finally got some primer on the frame today! I'll have to say my air compressor got a work out today, and so did I. Plus my brotherinlaw. I figured I would just try to sandblast around the seams, and places that I couldn't get to with the wire wheel. The frame didn't look as bad as I thought it would be. I'm learning this by trial and error so I hope the paint will last at least another 15 years or so. I sprayed mineral spirits on the frame and wiped it down with a clean rag. Then let it dry and sprayed on the primer. I will probably put a little more on tomorrow afternoon. Then let it set. May try to paint later this coming week depending on the weather. What do you think?

Larry

[Georgia71]

I'm going to try this and just let the paint set for a few weeks and see if it may hold up ok. If not then I'll go another route. I've had friends that got some good results with this on frame's. I guess time will tell. One person told me he first thinned his rustoleum with mineral spirits. Didn't get very good results with that. He said it took too long to dry. And this was in the summer in Georgia! The next time he used acetone and it dried much faster. So that's what I'm using. Like I said I'm learning so I could be screwing up. Won't know till I try.

Larry

[Nausea]

Looking good! I wish I'd had your sense and hung the frame too - its a real pain to clean and paint laying on your back
I second your opinion on mineral spirits... even just for cleaning pre-paint, it seems to leave a little bit of residue behind.

If you haven't already done so, you *really* should get those body mounts removed to clean under them. For example, one of mine had over an 1/8" of rust scale under it... then you could paint the whole frame at once. Replacing that rubber is definitely worth it as well. To remove, insert a punch from top of the mount and catch the lower part's lip (you'll see what I mean). Both halves are basically a washer with attached tube going into the rubber - the bottom one is just smaller and slip fits into the upper with a locking detent. Soak with penetrating oil (like PB) 1st. Energy Suspension makes a very nice poly set - just be sure to salvage all of the original metal as it gets re-used with most of the aftermarket sets.