Ok, my brake problem is result of leaking rear axle seal (68 Ranger SWB with possibly non-orig 9 inch rear). So, everything covered in goop. I have brake shoes completely off, except a little horseshoe kinda pin that holds rear shoe to emergency cable (it's up near top), how do you get tha tbugger to release? I've tried flathead, no luck. I have to get this off to turn install new shoes.
Next question, how to remove axle (this is 1/2 ton, 9 inch) and seal and R&R this deal? I haven't done that before, Hep ole banjo out please!
9 inch rear brake & axle questions
Moderator: FORDification
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Banjo
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 612
- Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:20 pm
- Location: Alabama
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Banjo
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 612
- Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:20 pm
- Location: Alabama
re: 9 inch rear brake & axle questions
ok, soon as I posted and read, it's not clear. There is a factory metal plate that fits behind rear brake shoe, it has a casting near the top (round) that fits thru exchangeable brake shoe (rear) and there is a metal neither C-shaped neither horseshoe shaped pin that holds the aftermarket brake shoe to the factory metal peice. At the bottom of this factory metal peice, the park brake cable fits in. I need to figure out how to remove this aggravating little pin so I can press on.
And a tutorial on axel R&R would sure help old Banjer.....
And a tutorial on axel R&R would sure help old Banjer.....
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Banjo
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 612
- Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:20 pm
- Location: Alabama
re: 9 inch rear brake & axle questions
Ok, got aggravated and beared down on that aggravating little clip and finally worked it loose.
Now.....axle R&R (seal leaking), I see 4 bolts behind axle poking out. I'm guessing I remove those and yank like a madman? I had a buddy tell me a way to put a chain on lugs and bolt it down with lug nuts and put a sledge hammer in loop in middle of chain and hammer between your legs (away from truck) as you're facing and said that'll pull axle out, or is there better way? Imagine I have to go to Car parts store to get seal puller and driver set? or use large socket?? NEver done this before, any help appreciated, Banjo.
Now.....axle R&R (seal leaking), I see 4 bolts behind axle poking out. I'm guessing I remove those and yank like a madman? I had a buddy tell me a way to put a chain on lugs and bolt it down with lug nuts and put a sledge hammer in loop in middle of chain and hammer between your legs (away from truck) as you're facing and said that'll pull axle out, or is there better way? Imagine I have to go to Car parts store to get seal puller and driver set? or use large socket?? NEver done this before, any help appreciated, Banjo.
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theskytoucher
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re: 9 inch rear brake & axle questions
when i pulled my axles they came out easily no yankuing at all so you might get lucky!
-Troy-
1996 Dodge ram 1500 4x4
1976 Ford F-150 4x4
Quando Omni Flunkus Mortadi
When all else Fails Play Dead
1996 Dodge ram 1500 4x4
1976 Ford F-150 4x4
Quando Omni Flunkus Mortadi
When all else Fails Play Dead
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BobbyFord
- 100% FORDified!
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- Joined: Sun Feb 04, 2007 9:52 am
- Location: Chatsworth, California
Remove the rear brake shoe with the E-brake arm attached, lay the shoe on it's side with the horseshoe retainer facing up, take a good chisle and place the just one of the edges at the top of the horseshoe clip (away from the ends) and with a sharp blow, hammer it back and off of the pin. Get a new horseshoe clip and pinch the ends together with a good pair of sidecutters to install.
After you've removed the four bearing retainer bolts, put your brake drum on backwards and thread on 3 lug nuts about 2 or 3 turns, then use the brake drum like a slide hammer to persuade the axle out.
Use a seal puller or screwdriver to pop out the old seal (take notice of depth of seal in the axle tube).
Check the bearing on the axle and replace if necessary (should be pressed off/on at parts house as opposed to cut off and hammered on with pipe).
To install the seal you can use a socket that is the same outside diameter as the new seal and lightly tap the seal into place at approximately the same depth that the old seal was. Also, you can pack the back of the seal with bearing grease to keep the seal tension spring in place while you're tapping it in. After the seal is installed, make sure the spring is still in place inside the seal.
After you've removed the four bearing retainer bolts, put your brake drum on backwards and thread on 3 lug nuts about 2 or 3 turns, then use the brake drum like a slide hammer to persuade the axle out.
Use a seal puller or screwdriver to pop out the old seal (take notice of depth of seal in the axle tube).
Check the bearing on the axle and replace if necessary (should be pressed off/on at parts house as opposed to cut off and hammered on with pipe).
To install the seal you can use a socket that is the same outside diameter as the new seal and lightly tap the seal into place at approximately the same depth that the old seal was. Also, you can pack the back of the seal with bearing grease to keep the seal tension spring in place while you're tapping it in. After the seal is installed, make sure the spring is still in place inside the seal.