Axle Pivot Bushings

[FORDification]

You can also drill out the rubber on the old bushings, and then bend/pry the bushing shells out. Then you can use a long bolt, nut and a couple of large washer to pull the new bushings in.

However, it's a lot of work...I'll second (third?) the suggestion of just dropping it off at the machine shop. And I also agree to getting the kingpins replaced while you've got everything down that far. Be honest...do you think you'll ever have the front-end tore down this far again in the future? Get it done now and keep it greased up, and they'll outlast the rest of the truck. Just my

[Wes]

You can do the pivot bushings in the truck w/ this tool

40.00 at Harbor Freight.

[BobbyFord]

I pop them out with my Snap-On air hammer using a chisle bit then I take a long bolt and nut the same diameter as the stock pivot bolt (grade eight), a thick washer on the flat side of the new bushing and a thick washer on the side of the axle pivot hole and then a 1/2 impact tightening the grade 8 bolt to persuade the new bushing into place. Nut, bolt and washers...about $4.

[ToughOldFord]

I had such a fight with mine I ended up cutting it out with a Saw-Zaw with a bi-metal blade. Then after bashing the sh*t out of everything while trying to put it in while the axle was still in the truck I ended up pulling the axle, tried pressing in the vise, then a manual press with no success. Then I took the mess to work and put the axle down, the bushing in place, and a bottle jack on top of it and jacked up the rear end of a loaded '28 pup (about 12 tons total) and still no go.
After that I took it to the machine shop and paid $15 to have it pressed in. I sure felt stupid wasting all that time and I could have had it done right and quick for $15 in the first place.

BTW, I left the spindle and king pin alone, I just unbolted the brake backing plate from the spindle and hung it to the truck so I didn't have a large bulk to drag around and I didn't have to disrupt my brake system any. The axle and king pin don't really add to the bulk without the brake system on it.

[averagef250]

I use my 35 ton simplex mechanical press. Those bushings are a bear, but 30+ ton will move just about anything or atleast explode it to smitherines. 35 ton is pretty safe for most pressing. I had a 40 ton press for a bit and I was distorting parts without realizing it!

[Kurt Combs]

Local shop just quoted me two hours times $80, plus parts. Shop rate is $80 per hour around here. Does this seem high? I'm in Northern California.

[MadMaxetc]

If you take in the Axles and Spyndles you should be able to get the Kingpins and Axle pivots done for less than $200. (mine was $165 with tax)

They should be able to do just the APB in about 15 min, parts are $50.

2 hours is if they have to take them out.

[dcbullet]

Local shop just quoted me two hours times $80, plus parts. Shop rate is $80 per hour around here. Does this seem high? I'm in Northern California.

Is that for you to drive the truck to a mechanic and then for them to do all the work? If so, I don't think that's too bad.

If it is for taking your Ibeams yourself to a machine shop, yes, that seems much too high.

Also in Norcal.

[Stumpfoot]

Yea I think 160 is high especially when its just labor and no parts.

[averagef250]

Is that carrying them in or them pulling the beams? If that's carry in price they're nuts. On the car that's really fair.

[averagef250]

That's a really fair price to drive the truck in. I'd say go for it.

[Stumpfoot]

I agree go for it.

[RTG_RACING]

You can do the pivot bushings in the truck w/ this tool

40.00 at Harbor Freight.

You can rent that at autozone for free.