New paint questions

[BiggDogg]

Ok, so I read a million articles about polishing, waxing, buffing etc, etc, and I think my head is going to explode trying to determine what to do . My question is, what have you guys done with your truck's new paint regarding polishing, waxing, buffing, etc? The paint was applied about a month ago. Thanks

[jzjames]

Hmm. As you probably know, the paint is not going to be completely dry in only one month. Id give it some benign neglect, just rinsing and washing lightly for at least 3 months, wouldnt apply polish for a while.
My

[BiggDogg]

As you probably know, the paint is not going to be completely dry in only one month.

thanks for catching that... meant to say new paint was applied about a month ago

[69bumptruck]

A friend of mine waited for over 6 months before he did anything with his. I would say just don't go out mudding in it. Just keep it rinsed with water. No harsh cleaners either. Maybe wipe it with a really soft cloth or chamis. You could get one of those "magic duster" things in the mean time.

[coletrain777]

If the truck has been painted for a month or more it won't hurt it at all to color sand, buff, and polish it (in fact it will probably be a little harder than if it was 3 or 4 days fresh). Any shrinking of the paint has surely taken place in your warm Cali temps. Just do not, I repeat do not, wax it for at least two more months as the wax will not let the solvents release out of the paint. It is just fine to use things like 3M finishing polishes and swirl mark removers (if the truck is a dark color) as they are meant to still let the paint "breathe".
Cole

[hardtailjohn]

Yep, Coletrain777 is right....go ahead and color sand, and buff... it's safe after a few days.
JH

[xxxtina63]

After a few days, the paint should be OK for buffing. Depending on what type of paint you use, will determine what kind of work is ahead of you. Get a quality buffer, like a variable speed DeWalt. The key to good buffing is controlling the speed to prevent burning, keeping the buffer moving, also to prevent burn through, and keeping the buffing pad clean. Use a good quality buffing compound and change the pad as soon as you notice it getting built up with paint. If you don't, you may pick up something in the pad, such as a grain of dirt. If you continue to buff with it, you will start scratching your new paint. Quality shops always change and never reuse buffing pads.

Also, when buffing, always face the buffer AWAY from the edges, not into. Otherwise, you will almost certainly take a bite out of the paint. Stay away from edges and sharp body lines. Some shops will actually tape over the lines to prevent "biting". After the majority of the buffing is done, they will work the body line areas by hand to prevent flaws. Always work lengthwise, not up and down. This will prevent any odd looking patterns in the paint.

Paint is a lot like body filler. There is an ideal "work time" involved. Too soon and it's too soft, and easily flawed. If you wait too long, it's like sanding concrete. While you can still achieve a nice finish, waiting too long can result in more time and more aggressive techniques of finishing.

[pyrofighting]

you can buff, and wash with degergant all you want after curing (1-2 days pending on climate). DO NOT apply any waxes for up to six months. This will make your new paint lift. It makes it so it cant breathe.
The reason you can wax so quickly with new cars is becuase they are a different paint system all together. They are different grades, spayed on with machines, and baked to cure.

[foghorn]

Now after 25-30 yrs in the shop my first question is. What kind of paint is on it? According to what your answer will be this will be the deciding factor to my reply. Also like everybody else has already said if you want to polish just use the 3m hand glaze. Nothing with silacones or petrolem type additives. Then when you do use a wax use a carnuba type only.If you want to color sand and buff i prefer to not sand close to edges or creases. I also like the foam pads over the wool as they are not as agressive as the wool will be. If you use wool when it starts to clog spur it clean. If you do this you can usually get about half of the car done with one wool pad. My dad was a stickler to only want new pads he had to pay extra for them but the results were better in the long run. If you have a compresor and a da sander you can get the velcro type of paper that is like on a thin layer of foam. Any dirt or trash in the job will have to be blocked. I always liked to take standard 1500 and wrap it around a wooden paint stick. This makes a fine block as long as you sand with in a diagonaly motion. Any runs just take a single edge razor blade and wrap a couple of layers of masking tape over each end. Then stand it up and rub it back and forth to shave it down a lil at a time. Never never never try to cut it off you can pull the center of it out if it isnt dry enough yet. so if you will post what kind of paint was used on it. then i can give you some good sound advice.



Foggy