Lug nut H#LL

[RhinoGT]

I wanted to put the Al rims and fat tires that were on my slick, on my bump yesterday. Whoever put the wheels on the slick really did a number. Regular lug nuts stuffed into these narrow openings. I cant get my impact socket in there, in fact a regular 13/16 barely fit. As it was it took all the plating off my socket. To make it worse they were really whaled on there. I had to stand on my 18" breaker bar to loosen them. So at 212lbs x 18" - how many ft./lbs of torque is that??

OK, lets get to the point. I stripped, not one but 3 of the nuts.
I cant get anything in there to get it out. Here is a picture. Any ideas?
I am thinking of getting a big drill and drilling the whole stud out.

NOT HAPPY

Thanks for any and all suggestions.

[71 LONG BED]

YIKES!
Not sure what to tell you that would be of any help. Just be carefull if you do decide to drill them out. Obviously the aluminum is much softer than the steel, if the drill walks you'll damage the wheel. Other than that, not sure what to say eccept "sorry".

[mrsnicks]

I am at work, so cannot look to see if this will work... but from what I REMEMBER you can get to the wheel stud from the back... what about griding the mount part of the wheel stud off so it comes out through the drum assembly and you just pull the wheel off with the nut still on the stud?

Did that make sense?

[67heavystepside]

USING A DRILL IS THE ONLY WAY I CAN THINK OF AT THIS TIME, USE A CENTER PUNCH TO PUT A INDENT IN THE WHEEL STUD FIRST , SO THE DRILL DOSEN'T WALK OFF CENTER. JUST TAKE IT SLOW AND USE PLENTY OF WD40 TO KEEP THE DRILL BIT COOL AND LUBED UP.

[bluef250]

If you drill, dimple stud with punch then make a small pilot hole then enlarge. 212x1.5 is 318 ft lb. But if you jumped on the breaker bar, you probably can multiply that by 2 or 3 times. If the lugs were put on that tight, you should replace the studs and more than likely the aluminum wheels are damaged and should be replaced. I set my torque wrench to 85 to 95 ft lb when installing nuts.

[RhinoGT]

OK, thanks for the ideas. I was afraid drilling was the route I would have to go. Honestly, I dont know how he got these ON here so tight. With such limited clearance, He couldnt have used an impact wrench. Of course, the dude I bought it from was pretty darn big...

[averagef250]

Might try soaking them good with penetrating oil, a little heat on the nut and pound a 6 point metric socket over the rounded off ones. If they're really stuck you'll have to drill anyway though. Good luck.

[AK F100]

I have got a few years in a tire shop and this is more common than people think. Other than pounding an under-sized socket on the nut, you can use a smaller drill bit to drill out the spot where the threads on the nut meet the stud. Do this in a couple places directly across from one another and then try to split the nut with a small chisel. The nut is a lot softer that the stud so it will drill a lot easier. As soon as the nut starts to look like it might be spreading, get a large drift punch and place it at the end of the stud and use the largest sledge you have. Just remember control is the key and using the large sledge makes it so you do not have to swing as fast to get the same result. I know this sounds kind of long and drawn out but it goes real quick if you are drilling the nut not the stud. This has worked many times in the past for me. Let me know how it works for you.
GOOD LUCK, Rich

[19674x4]

i would say drill em out. pull the whole, drum/hub assembly off and do it that way.

[MadMaxetc]

I like AK F100's sugjestion. I think trying to split will be easier than drilling the stud. Also the heat from drilling will help.

[Leadfoot]

heat works but a person needs to be very careful not to melt the rim.

what I do is use a metric socket and pound it on with a big hammer.
I start with a 21mm, 20mm, 19mm. basically any that I can force/pound over the nut. all the pounding seems to crack the rust most times. but you cant use a crap no name socket, or it will crack before you force it on.
and 6 points only

[RhinoGT]

As soon as it stops raining at night, I am going to try these suggestions. I already busted one socket (no-name, but 6 pt) and I dont have any 6pt metrics that will fit in the hole (all impact sockets) Not sure if I am going to go buy a set just to beat the crap out of, but who knows.

I like AK F100's suggestion a lot. I will see if I can get out there tonight.

Thanks for all - I will update with my results.

[RTG_RACING]

I saw a guy fight this for about 3 days once. What he did was took the drum/wheel off. Used a press and pressed the stud back through the nut. Pulled the threads out of the nut. If you don't have a press then you could grind off the back and beat them through.

[xxxtina63]

heat works but a person needs to be very careful not to melt the rim.

what I do is use a metric socket and pound it on with a big hammer.
I start with a 21mm, 20mm, 19mm. basically any that I can force/pound over the nut. all the pounding seems to crack the rust most times. but you cant use a crap no name socket, or it will crack before you force it on.
and 6 points only

I can't even count the number of times I've used this technique. Don't use a deep well socket if possible. They will crack easier.

[kknip]

I have a set of sockets that have aggressive left hand teeth in them,made by Irwin tools,snap-on also sells them,though,they would be expensive.I got my set at Northern tool and equipment.Kind of like a female easy out.


I don't think that it has a big enough socket,Snap-on would though.