3 Quick Questions
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3 Quick Questions
1st: This weekend I am going to complete the floor boards. When welding do you weld all the way around (in sections so they don't warp) on both sides of the new floor boards? Or just weld the top (internal cab) and then seal it with a sealant underneath the cab. Sorry novice question.
2nd: Under my cab corner (not cab mount) that I just cut out there is surface rust inside. A leaky rear window seal caused the issue and I'm replacing it to fix that but will it hurt to go ahead and scrape out as much as possible and then put some chassis saver (por15 equivalent and readily available at my paint store) inside before welding in the new piece? I didn't know if it would just burn off what I painted by welding. I don't want to leave this area untreated.
3rd: The driver side cab corner looks great and is not pitting through and seems to have solid metal. But sense the passenger side is bad and I'm already replacing it, should I go ahead and replace both? I don't want to get all my body work done and have this become an issue on the drives side after I paint.
Thanks in advance!
2nd: Under my cab corner (not cab mount) that I just cut out there is surface rust inside. A leaky rear window seal caused the issue and I'm replacing it to fix that but will it hurt to go ahead and scrape out as much as possible and then put some chassis saver (por15 equivalent and readily available at my paint store) inside before welding in the new piece? I didn't know if it would just burn off what I painted by welding. I don't want to leave this area untreated.
3rd: The driver side cab corner looks great and is not pitting through and seems to have solid metal. But sense the passenger side is bad and I'm already replacing it, should I go ahead and replace both? I don't want to get all my body work done and have this become an issue on the drives side after I paint.
Thanks in advance!
- 69bumptruck
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Re: 3 Quick Questions
1: Always weld in small spaced out increments. This will help prevent warping. Usually about an inch at a time, then move away, and continue bouncing around like that until all done.77Moneypit wrote:1st: This weekend I am going to complete the floor boards. When welding do you weld all the way around (in sections so they don't warp) on both sides of the new floor boards? Or just weld the top (internal cab) and then seal it with a sealant underneath the cab. Sorry novice question.
2nd: Under my cab corner (not cab mount) that I just cut out there is surface rust inside. A leaky rear window seal caused the issue and I'm replacing it to fix that but will it hurt to go ahead and scrape out as much as possible and then put some chassis saver (por15 equivalent and readily available at my paint store) inside before welding in the new piece? I didn't know if it would just burn off what I painted by welding. I don't want to leave this area untreated.
3rd: The driver side cab corner looks great and is not pitting through and seems to have solid metal. But sense the passenger side is bad and I'm already replacing it, should I go ahead and replace both? I don't want to get all my body work done and have this become an issue on the drives side after I paint.
Thanks in advance!
2: I would do all work BEFORE any painting. Metal to metal is the best welding surface.
3: Peck at the metal with a screw driver or a small hammer. You'll find out real fast if the metal is good or weak. If it's weak, replace.
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re: 3 Quick Questions
Thanks 69bumptruck! Great idea with trying the metal with a hammer/screwdriver. I appreciate your feed back and will start banging away once the sun comes up.
- 69bumptruck
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Re: re: 3 Quick Questions
77Moneypit wrote:Thanks 69bumptruck! Great idea with trying the metal with a hammer/screwdriver. I appreciate your feed back and will start banging away once the sun comes up.
Yeah, I used this method to find out I needed a new cab mount!
![Sad :(](./images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
The more I tapped, the more stuff fell off! Are you working on a '77? If you are, and need body parts, let me know. I have some stuff I've been trying to get rid of. I plan on taking it in for scrap soon. Here's a link to some pics. I have promised the door panels to someone though.
http://73-79.com/forums/album_personal.php?user_id=461
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re: 3 Quick Questions
69bumptruck I love those doors! I wish I would have known you a little sooner and we could have figured something out. Are these on ebay? I think I saw them and put them on my watch list,
. Let me know if the doors fall through with the person you promised them to. Also that cab looks good. Any rust on her? Thanks again!
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- 69bumptruck
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Re: re: 3 Quick Questions
Not on E-Bay. I had them posted here once, and over on the dentside site. The doors are good. The guy interested only wants the interior panels, not the doors themselves. So those, I still have up for grabs. The cab does have rust. The floors have a good size hole, and behind the seat is rusted. I would only use it for parts. I do plan on stripping it out a little before hauling it off. Stuff like the guages, wiring, dash pad, etc... Let me know if your interested in something, and I'll pull it aside. Everything else goes to scrap Tuesday.77Moneypit wrote:69bumptruck I love those doors! I wish I would have known you a little sooner and we could have figured something out. Are these on ebay? I think I saw them and put them on my watch list,. Let me know if the doors fall through with the person you promised them to. Also that cab looks good. Any rust on her? Thanks again!
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re: 3 Quick Questions
69bumptruck I sent you a PM, thanks again!
- MadMaxetc
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1) You only need to weld on the top side IF you are getting good penitration. I just did mine last night and only did it from inside the cab. You don't have to leave a gap for the weld to "fill" you can just butt it up 1/16" to 0" gap is good.
Dan
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Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4 / Work In Progress!
Daily Driver: '67 F-250 Converted to F-100 LWB / 300 / T-5 / 9" 3.70:1 / 235/75R15 Tires
1/4 mile in 17.64s @ 75mph (it's 4200lbs!!!)
"Work Harder! Millions On Welfare Depend On YOU!!"
FORD Girl
Photobucket Pictures
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re: 3 Quick Questions
MadMaxetc, thanks for the reply. Do you have any pictures of your recent floor project? Did she turn out good for you? I will get as close as possible with the gap as you stated. I will keep putting them in, checking, cutting, checking, cutting, until I think it's ready to weld!
- 19674x4
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i usually do a lap weld on floor pans and such, start in the middle and work out alternating sides with small 1/2 inch welds until you get it done, then grind the weld down and por-15 and paint.
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2012 Cummins-the luxury Tow Pig
1967 F-250 highboy 352, np435(((((((sold))))))))) My first true love
1968 F100 SWB. 360, np-435, flatbed, currently acting as a hornest nest and bee hive.
1971 F-100 4x4 Step-side. 360, np-435, 70k origional miles- needs allot of love.