I started out by buying my 77 4x4 Ford to use for hunting. Well now I am doing a frame off restoration, don't ask me how that happened. Guess I got the bug if one exists. Heck I have more money in all the tools needed to restore then I do in the truck itself. I can't stay off the PC at night trying to soak up as much information as I possibly can since this is my first restoration project. Also, excuse me for having a dent side and not a bump out. I have seen both trucks and trust me I will get a bump out soon.
That aside here is my question. My truck bed and cab have rust that needs to be replaced. I know that new metal is the cure and anything else is just a band aid and is just temporary. So I already cut out the floor boards and bought new ones from Raybuck.com. They seem perfect for my use and around 18 gauge but before I put them in or bought more parts from this site (i.e. cab corners, bed wheel arch panel, and rocker panel) I wanted to ask the experts where I should get my panels. I know that LMC and Dennis Carpenter seem to be the favorite throughout this site but I wanted the "School of Hard Knocks" theory on this one and find the best product. What is your guys/gals experience with these sites via the parts I need to order? Thanks!!!
Raybuck body panel replacement?
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Raybuck body panel replacement?
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- jzjames
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re: Raybuck body panel replacement?
floors looking good, ready for fabbing in the new ones. Im sure most of it is the skill of fitting in the new sheetmetal, and the quality of the welding job. Also you might check Carolina Classics.
- MadMaxetc
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the ones you got are probably DC. How much did you pay for them? did they come in a DC box. DC and CC are the best. They use original tools to make the parts, so you know it will fit.
If the panels are a good fit and the gage is right, then
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If the panels are a good fit and the gage is right, then
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Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4 / Work In Progress!
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re: Raybuck body panel replacement?
Definitely get the DC cab mounts. All the other suppliers used a one-piece stamped-steel version, whereas DC uses the original factory style, which is much stronger and of course looks original. They're more expensive, but definitely worth the expense.
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re: Raybuck body panel replacement?
Thanks for the quick response from everyone. I will stick with the floor boards from Raybuck.com but I am going to use DC for the cab mounts as Keith suggested. I would rather spend extra money on the foundation and not have to do it again. All right two more questions (many to come so sorry in advance);
1st: This weekend I am going to complete the floor boards. When welding do you weld all the way around (in sections so they don't warp) on both sides of the new floor boards? Or just weld the top (internal cab) and then seal it with a sealant underneath the cab. Sorry novice question.
2nd: Under my cab corner not cab mount that I just cut out there is surface rust inside. A leaky rear window seal caused the issue and I'm replacing it to fix that but will it hurt to go ahead and scrape out as much as possible and then put some chassis saver (por15 equivalent and readily available at my paint store) inside before welding in the new piece? I didn't know if it would just burn off what I painted by welding. I don't want to leave this area untreated.
1st: This weekend I am going to complete the floor boards. When welding do you weld all the way around (in sections so they don't warp) on both sides of the new floor boards? Or just weld the top (internal cab) and then seal it with a sealant underneath the cab. Sorry novice question.
2nd: Under my cab corner not cab mount that I just cut out there is surface rust inside. A leaky rear window seal caused the issue and I'm replacing it to fix that but will it hurt to go ahead and scrape out as much as possible and then put some chassis saver (por15 equivalent and readily available at my paint store) inside before welding in the new piece? I didn't know if it would just burn off what I painted by welding. I don't want to leave this area untreated.