bad rust on floor board
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- dudeman
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- Location: Oregon, Gresham
bad rust on floor board
on the driver's floor board ive got bad cancer, what do you guy think of rust morter? does it work well? easy to use? i was thinking about riveting some sheet metal in place one the cancer is taken care of ill update my photobucket to include some floorboard pics
1971 F100 4x4 custom w/360 4spd
The blue bomber
http://www.myspace.com/chadleyrw <If you wish to e-mail me do it from here<
http://s173.photobucket.com/albums/w41/chadleyrw/
The blue bomber
http://www.myspace.com/chadleyrw <If you wish to e-mail me do it from here<
http://s173.photobucket.com/albums/w41/chadleyrw/
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- Blue Oval Guru
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re: bad rust on floor board
do you have the option of welding new pans in? This is by far the most reliable way as it is new sheetmetal WELDED in. You can por 15 or rubber coat the floor afterwards top and bottom as well.
- BobbyFord
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re: bad rust on floor board
I cut out the rusted sections in the floor of my '63 and rivited in hardened stainless steel. Bye bye rust forever.
- MadMaxetc
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welding in mew stuff is the only true fix. Anything else is a bandaid.
If you have just a few pin holes then I would look at POR-15s patch kit. It you have a hole or many holes, you will need to weld in new stuff.
My experiance with the bandaid fixes are that it makes you forget about the problem and let it get worse untill it is to hard or costs to much to fix.
If you have just a few pin holes then I would look at POR-15s patch kit. It you have a hole or many holes, you will need to weld in new stuff.
My experiance with the bandaid fixes are that it makes you forget about the problem and let it get worse untill it is to hard or costs to much to fix.
Dan
Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4 / Work In Progress!
Daily Driver: '67 F-250 Converted to F-100 LWB / 300 / T-5 / 9" 3.70:1 / 235/75R15 Tires
1/4 mile in 17.64s @ 75mph (it's 4200lbs!!!)
"Work Harder! Millions On Welfare Depend On YOU!!"
FORD Girl
Photobucket Pictures
Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4 / Work In Progress!
Daily Driver: '67 F-250 Converted to F-100 LWB / 300 / T-5 / 9" 3.70:1 / 235/75R15 Tires
1/4 mile in 17.64s @ 75mph (it's 4200lbs!!!)
"Work Harder! Millions On Welfare Depend On YOU!!"
FORD Girl
Photobucket Pictures
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- Blue Oval Fanatic
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re: bad rust on floor board
LMC and Blue Oval Truck Parts have floor pans for pretty reasonable $$ IMO, I picked up a pair from BOTP for $80. They're the same price at both places, I got mine from BOTP because I live near them and can pick up parts from the warehouse to avoid shipping costs
- BobbyFord
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MadMaxetc wrote:welding in mew stuff is the only true fix. Anything else is a bandaid.
If you have just a few pin holes then I would look at POR-15s patch kit. It you have a hole or many holes, you will need to weld in new stuff.
My experiance with the bandaid fixes are that it makes you forget about the problem and let it get worse untill it is to hard or costs to much to fix.
You also need to fix why it rusted out. A lot of the time it's a seepy windshield rubber.
My stainless steel fix is forever. Mild steel replacement floor pans will rust out again.
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- Blue Oval Fan
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re: bad rust on floor board
boy is that the truth (about why it rusted out), because otherwise you haven't addressed the root cause. I need to do the same on my 68. I'm going to wait until a serious rainstorm at night and get out there with a flashlight and see where the water is intruding from, but I suspect (as bobbyford alluded) leaking windshield gasket.....
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- Blue Oval Fanatic
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re: bad rust on floor board
Prety sure mine was the weather stripping around the door because it was in bad shape/some of it missing, and when I got the truck it had a sliding rear window that didn't close (really strange actually-when you "close" the slider, there is a 3 inch gap between the glass, previous owner had it duct-taped).
Anyhow, I just bought replacement rubber and new windows, so hopefully problem solved
Anyhow, I just bought replacement rubber and new windows, so hopefully problem solved
- XLT
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Re: re: bad rust on floor board
I agree with:BiggDogg wrote:LMC and Blue Oval Truck Parts have floor pans for pretty reasonable $$ IMO, I picked up a pair from BOTP for $80. They're the same price at both places.
Coat with Por-15.
XLTrucks from my town
- averagef250
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Be realistic. Are you going to restore the truck or stump jump it? If you just plan on beating the truck, rivet an old stopsign down there. Some shag carpet on top and you'll never know the difference!
Especially here in the northwest where bumpside metal is really easy to find in good shape, make an accurate assessment of the condition of the cab before you decide to start patching it. Rust is very, very hard to get rid of. Even patch panels don't get it all out. You can spend hundreds on patch panels and more labor installing them than it would take to find a perfect cab and swap it on.
Especially here in the northwest where bumpside metal is really easy to find in good shape, make an accurate assessment of the condition of the cab before you decide to start patching it. Rust is very, very hard to get rid of. Even patch panels don't get it all out. You can spend hundreds on patch panels and more labor installing them than it would take to find a perfect cab and swap it on.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
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- Blue Oval Fanatic
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re: bad rust on floor board
XLT-that's a great picture!