how much product?

[layedout72]

Alright, I am looking to spray JUST my engine bay right now, so that I can throw my motor back in. What I want to do is spray some epoxy primer first on the bare metal and scuff that up for body work. Once body work is done I want to go over it with whatever type of primer would work best. I am not sure if that is urethane or polyester? Anyone have opinions? And of course the top coat.

I was under the impression at first that a flat color would be easier to spray than a "shiny" color, but was told the opposite. I still don't see that holding true, but once again, opinions? I want to spray a flat color first only because it will be easier to touch up while I drive/build/work on the truck past the point it is at now.

How much of everything should I order? I was thinking a quart of everything would be enough for the engine bay as it really isn't a LOT of metal to cover. What is everyone opinions on what to buy to spray ONLY the engine bay.

[averagef250]

I've never sprayed an engine bay as you describe. I've always shot inner fenders and core support semi gloss black and painted the firewall body color.

A quart should get the inner fenders, core and firewall though. I recommend using low gloss black equipment enamel with either a black primer/sealer underneath or no primer at all. If you use a different color to prime with any chips in the topcoat will show off the primer underneath. If it matches or there is no primer there's nothing to worry about.

[layedout72]

well, its going to be a show truck, so i want everything body color. it wont be driven daily.

[foghorn]

It will also depend on what kind of paint your gonna use in the end. For acrylic enamel i think a qt will be enough to do. When you use the enamel the first coat just give it a light coat for the other coats to hold on to. So your fir4st coat will look kind of like sand paper in texture. The second and third coats you can start laying on a bit heavyer. But you want to leave some flow for the paint to do. Spray it to look kinda a little bit like orange peel. If it needs to it can be recoated to flow it on out better. Its just better to have no runs.



Foggy

[layedout72]

my plan is epoxy primer over the bare metal, do body work, primer over all that, and paint with a single stage flat color. I don't have a good gun, so I want to spray a flat color as it won't be so hard to spray, won't show streaks and all as much.

[kknip]

That is what I would do.You could use an etching primer like Sherwin Williams GBP,or DuPont variprime,if you don't have any pits or places you would smooth out with epoxy.You can paint right over the etching primer after it has flashed off without having to sand it.

[layedout72]

ive used etching before and absolutely hated it. may of been the company, but wont use it again. the epoxy way is how the high end cars are done, so thats how mine will be done.

anyone have tips on what HOK primer to use over the body work and before paint?

and I am guessing a quart of each will do me well?

[farmtruckman]

As we speak, I am painting the doors on my 67 trying to get it ready for the Pacific Northwest meet & greet. I am using the Martin Senour Acrylic Enamel (old PPG) and it works great. A quart goes a long way because you also need the reducer which gets it to spraying consistency along with if you require a hardener. The ratio I am using is 4-2-1 so a quart will yield you almost two quarts when you are done. Acrylic enamels are easy to use, dry quick and can be rubbed out since I have learned that dust (and dog hair) is the enemy. Good luck in painting and remember everything with enough paint can be color sanded out!!!