I owned this '72 4x4 f100 since it was new. In the 80's I had the alingment checked, it was the only time someone else was under it without me.
I want to get it back in good shape again. Quite awhile ago I noticed the adjusting sleeve had been welded in it's center to the drag link and outer tie rod, that's not normal is it..??
So I tried to take off the outer tie-rod, took off the castle nut and tried to budge it, beat it a tad, no movement--is it a press fit and just frozen in there or is it designed to be dis-assembled with a puller-- or what..??
I plan on replacing the axel isolators and the radius bushings too,, any tricks and tips.?
Thanks for the assistance...
Tie rod question
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Tie rod question
fill your hands you son-of-a-bitch....
Rooster Cogburn
Rooster Cogburn
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- xxxtina63
- Preferred User
- Posts: 329
- Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 12:10 am
- Location: Minnesota, Grand Rapids
re: Tie rod question
Yeah. Best investment I ever made. Used to use the hammer & fork, but I'm getting older and the body isn't taking it too well. Using the air chisel can usually break loose tie rods & ball joints in a matter of seconds. Much easier.
Robert
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Outa site, thanks all..
I got a compressor, 4lb. single-jack(hammer), now I need a Pickle fork bar or air attachment, cool..
King pin bushings-- OK, as soon as I figure out where they are..
Now, those radius arm bushings and the axel isolators, it looks like I gotta take off the coil suspension spring to take apart the joint to get to the isolators AND to be able to slip the radius arms forward to change the bushings,, yes??, or is there an easier way(trick).?
Thank you guys!!!
Hey KID, we ride up to Ruidoso twice a year for the sickle rally, there'll be a cold one with your name on it...
I got a compressor, 4lb. single-jack(hammer), now I need a Pickle fork bar or air attachment, cool..
King pin bushings-- OK, as soon as I figure out where they are..
Now, those radius arm bushings and the axel isolators, it looks like I gotta take off the coil suspension spring to take apart the joint to get to the isolators AND to be able to slip the radius arms forward to change the bushings,, yes??, or is there an easier way(trick).?
Thank you guys!!!
Hey KID, we ride up to Ruidoso twice a year for the sickle rally, there'll be a cold one with your name on it...
fill your hands you son-of-a-bitch....
Rooster Cogburn
Rooster Cogburn
Oops sorry you don't have King Pins you have.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... 26&ptset=A
Drop the springs at top and bottom, shocks at the bottom and to really do the work with no hassles it is best pull the axles all the way out and clean up the radius arm bolts and guide rods. They are meant to give a little and when the rust builds up in between the parts they bind and the suspension does not move as well.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... 26&ptset=A
Drop the springs at top and bottom, shocks at the bottom and to really do the work with no hassles it is best pull the axles all the way out and clean up the radius arm bolts and guide rods. They are meant to give a little and when the rust builds up in between the parts they bind and the suspension does not move as well.