Neutral Switch-The answer

[1970pickup]

I recently posted a question about where to hook up a neutral safety switch after a swap from stick to an automatic. From the responses it appeared that no one had any idea. Althought I did appreciate the guy who suggested I look at a wiring diagram, dam, I never thought of that !!

The answer I figured out on my own. The stick shift equipted vehicles are already wired for the switch. Under the dash above the main trunk of the harness near the split off for the fuse block there is a plug wired in. The plug has a dummy pluged into it which has two wires jumping it so that it appears to the truck that a neutral switch is installed. Just unplug the jumper and plug in the harness from the column and it works.

[fordman]

did it want to start with just the dummy plug in it? or did you try that at all? i'm just wondering because i have a dummy plug and it won't start with the key right now it will start out on the firewall but won't stat running unless you hold the screwdriver on to the solinoid.

[1970pickup]

It starts fine. When I took out the old set up I just unplugged the backup switch with was on the shift linkage at the end of the column and left the plug hanging. There was no other switch.

[scott]

I just rebuilt my steering column top last week. When I reinstalled the original actuator for the Nuetral switch it wont clip into the recesses on the shift tube and keeps popping out. Any suggestions??

[460 crew]

The dummy wire is just a jumper to keep the flow moving and not come to an end. Fordman the plug shouldn't be your problem. I did the same swap on my 70 and never had a problem, was kinda nice having existing wiring there ready to go.

[fordman]

yea pat that is what i thought. i was going to put in a switch but i thought that the dummy plug must work. it might be the solinoid i used i think it came off of something else other than this year of ford.

[Wes]

Fordman,
If your truck runs when jumped at solenoid, your solenoid is good. You need to see if you have power to the coil with the key on, should be 7 to 9 volts. If not you might have a bad ignition switch, an open or high resistance in the wire to the coil. It could be an open/resistance in the neutral dummy wiring.
Good luck

[rjewkes]

I think my truck had a fuse in the fuse box that controlled the power out to the dizz to cuase if it blew it would kick and kick and kick but no fire.

But your not even kicking?

[fordman]

i get nothing when i turn the switch it is a brand bew switch. new uncut harness from another truck. it could be i got the wires mixed up on the engine but i don't think i did there was only three of them one to coil one for the oil and the other to the water.

[rjewkes]

hows the battery?

[fordman]

it will start with the solinoid its not a battery problem. the battery is out of my daily driver. i have to swap it in when i want to start old blue or the red one.

[rjewkes]

Hows the plug behind the dash? is it a completetly new switch or just the tumbler? What about the connector near the firewall is it completly plugged in or loose a little?

[fordman]

the switch is new the tumbler is used. the plugs seem to be in place ok.

[rjewkes]

burnt up resistance wire? does everything else in the cab have power?

[fordman]

yea i got power to everything else. i don't see any burned or melted stuff. i'll have to check it out this weekend and do some more playng.